Hello forum, and Engine Removal

[flybot]

Hello,
First post. I recently aquired my dads old '82 R65. It hasnt been started since probably 1987, and has about 6000 miles on it, overall great shape, and has been stored in a dry garage all these years.

Im taking it down to the frame to repaint it, replace (or at least repack, if thats possible) all the wheel bearings, and head stock bearings, etc, and just a general going through. The grease has long ago hardened. The engine spins just fine, clutch seems to work. The carbs prob need a rebuild, just to get all the old dried fuel out. I dont anticipate any issues with the engine, so Im not tearing it down. It seems he just parked it one day. Including leaving about a half tank of gas in the tank. It looked and smelled nasty.

Here is probably the first of many R65 questions:

Searched but didnt find an exact thread on engine removal.

-The engine is completely free, but seems to be built into the frame. Does the tranny have to come off to get the engine out?
-Does the tranny and engine share the same oil sump?
-Looking at realOEM it looks like there is just a short spline shaft connecting the engine to the tranny, Yes?

Also, I had the classic stuck locking gas cap. Had to distroy the cap to get it out. Can you still get one, or are there suitable substitutes?

The fuel tank has a ton of rust in it, but no perforation. I was planning on rattling a chain, rocks, something like that, around to knock the rust off. Then do a treatment with POR15 to recoat the tank. Any better ideas?

Thanks in advance. Hopefully, by going through this beast Ill be able to contribute to the forum later.

 

[Barry]

Welcome flybot

The engine is completely free, but seems to be built into the frame. Does the tranny have to come off to get the engine out ?

I beliieve not but it's going to be a whole lot easier and lighter if you do. It's usually recommended to remove as many ancillary bits as possible to reduce the weight. The engine alone is something like 100lbs.

-Does the tranny and engine share the same oil sump?

No

-Looking at realOEM it looks like there is just a short spline shaft connecting the engine to the tranny, Yes?

Yes the spline mates with a single dry plate clutch in the typical fashion of manual transmission cars.

[Ed Miller]

You will also need to change out the brake fluid, if the term fluid still accurately describes it.  That sounds like a great project.  I think your gas tank plans sound good.

[flybot]

Thanks for the quick replys guys.

Yes, the brake fluid is completely gone. Ill need to rebuild the master cylinder for sure. Ill have to look at the calipers. Lots of rubber parts will be replaced.

[clonmore1]

"I beliieve not but it's going to be a whole lot easier and lighter if you do. It's usually recommended to remove as many ancillary bits as possible to reduce the weight. The engine alone is something like 100lbs".

I just lifted mine into the back of my wife's car..

[flybot]

Well, I finally got the engine out. What a chore. Like peeling an onion- every step required taking something else off to continue.

-Engine separated and disconnected from everything. Ready to lift out. Cant lift out, too big.
-Separate tranny from engine. Have to take airbox off.
- To take air box off you need to take the top engine cover off, which requires takeing the front cover off.
-Carbs need to come off as well, (need to be rebuilt anyway) since they dont flex enough to get the air box free.
-Cant get to top tranny case bolts without partialy dissassemling the EGR (?) valve thing in the airbox.
-Tranny finaly separated. I think it best to remove/reinstall with the swing arm removed. I didnt do that. Whats up with the long skinny pin that extends from the transmission stub shaft? What is it for?
-Engine is out, by sliding it as far rearward as possible, tilting to left and out.

Getting the engine back in with out trashing the soon-to-be new frame paint job will be a challenge.

Also, those carbs are a strange design. Whats up with the carb throat restrictor that goes up and down and seems to be vacum controlled? Never seen anything like that.

[Ed Miller]

-Separate tranny from engine. Have to take airbox off.
- To take air box off you need to take the top engine cover off, which requires takeing the front cover off.

My airbox comes off without removing the top cover.  And removing my top cover doesn't require removing the front cover.  Maybe yours were just all stuck together from time?


--Tranny finaly separated. I think it best to remove/reinstall with the swing arm removed. I didnt do that. Whats up with the long skinny pin that extends from the transmission stub shaft? What is it for?

I think you're talking about the throwout  bearing rod?  Goes all the way through the gear box?  On these, the throwout bearing is at the rear of the gear box, and it pushes the rod all the way through to the clutch plate.  Not like any car clutch system I ever worked on.


Also, those carbs are a strange design. Whats up with the carb throat restrictor that goes up and down and seems to be vacum controlled? Never seen anything like that.

Are you used to slide carbs?  CV carbs use vacuum, as you suggest, to raise the slide rather than having a throttle cable attached right to the slide like the Amals on my Triumph do.  If you're only used to car carbs, I've never worked on one that had any kind of a slide in it though I understand that some vintage cars used them.

[montmil]

Which shop manual do you have?

[flybot]

Which shop manual do you have?

I dont have any manuals. Are there any worth having?

Im sure there are easier ways to do some of the things Ive done. The majority of my wrench experience is cars.

Thanks for the info!

[montmil]

I dont have any manuals. Are there any worth having? Im sure there are easier ways to do some of the things Ive done...

[smiley=drowning.gif]

Scoot on over to the R65 FAQs section and download a pdf copy of the R65 Owners Manual.

[nhmaf]

At the very least - take the free PDF copy of the manual.  Also, shop online for the Clymer BMW R-Series 1970-1994 manual or the Haynes BMW 2 Valve Twins manual (or both) ... They ahve some overlap, but there are different levels of detail in each one (and also, some errors), but if you haven't worked on bikes - and ESPECIALLY BMW bikes before, well, BMW does things differently from many other motorcycle manufacturers.    These bikes are "simple", and "elegant by design", which usually means "rather confusing" to anyone who isn't a German engineer.   They aren't technically difficult, but it is a mindset which will at first seem totally alien to you.

[flybot]

Ok, Ill look for the Clymer and Haynes. Im used to their "quality". I have them for my old '75 911. Also, Ive been working on Porsches and BMW cars for years, so the good ol german logic seems right.

But this is only my 3rd motorcycle, and #2 never needs any work. Cant wait to ride the R65! Oh, and I have the owners manual, along with adds, brochures, sales receipt, old mag reviews, etc. My dad seemed to keep everything pretty organized. Just no shop manuals!

Thanks for all the help!!

[Barry]

If you are looking for a 2nd hand Haynes manual make sure to get the the latest version which was supposed to have been revised with many of the errors corrected.

[montmil]

Forgot to mention...

Cover that freshly painted chassis with multiple layers of wide "blue" painters tape -not an aggressive adhesive and far less likely to pull off paint- in the areas where the engine and/or trans could bump and scratch. This is a popular protective technique.

[Cano]

Hey flybot, I'm in Oldham County, just next door to you.  I bought a 1982 r65ls a year and a half ago that had been parked since 1989.  Ive got both Haynes and Clymer manuals if you want to take a look see before buying, and have recently been through much of what you will be doing. Brakes turned out to be the biggest expense -- the master cylinder was too far gone to rebuild due to the 20+ year old "fluid."  Anyway, feel free to shoot me a PM.  Good luck.