Getting the bike to frame only

[luckyd20]

Hi everyone! I was wondering how every would start tearing down the bike? As of right now I have my seat and tank off. I then zip tied each cable/wire with an index card and labeled it along with taking notes/pictures for reference. Once I get my exhaust wrench i plan to remove that first. Then where you guys go next? Also when would I have to removed the clutch or can I just removed the driveshaft? Sorry i'm a noob but handy with tools.

[Adrian]

Hi Lucky welcome to the fine art of restoration work. I'm in the middle of mine at the moment. My bike is now completely disassembled and in about 100 pieces. If you are going to remove the engine then make sure you do this before you take off the wheels or centre stand - its very difficult to kep it all balanced and upright without these things. Once the exhaust is of and all the wiring is disconnected and the smaller items such as foot brake pedal is off, I pulled off as many bits as I could to reduce the weight of the engine. Remove such things as the top engine cover, rocker covers, heads and barrels if you intend to replace rings, gaskets, check the bores etc. Front engine cover, airbox, and pull off the starter motor. All ths thins weigh a lot. Finally with the engine bolts removed and the engine supported (I used a car scissor jack and a piece of solid wood) remove the gearbox. You will have to push the engine forward a small amounbt to achieve this.
I have my motor ona  bench so i can work at a reasonable height. removing the clutch and or flywheel is okay if you have the tools. Although I'm in Australia I bought a few necessary tools for this kind of work and other things from Cycleworks in the states - great company and good tools.
Once the motor is out and the wiring is off its easy to pull the rest of it to pieces.
In the restoration Logs sectio I and others on thr forum have documented our work often with pictures to help. Good luck mate - keep asking there is a wealth of knowledge on this site and everyone is really friendly and helpful.
Adrian in Oz .......

[Bengt_Phorqs]

What is the purpose of the tear down?  Is it for mechanical repairs only, are you doing a full on restoration, or just want to see how everything works together?  Unless you are doing a full restoration (and have a hefty bank account) remove as little as you need to.  Don't rush it, take copious notes, and a lot of photos.  Index your work until you really know what you're doing.  You don't want to be one of those guys that walks into a shop with a box of parts and say, well, can you fix this.

And one more thing.  Do something on the bike EVERY day.  Otherwise you will lose interest and then you will have a box of parts to sell.  Then you can tell the buyer, it was running when I parked it.

[steve hawkins]

If you have never had the exhaust nuts off, consider cutting them off.  If they have not moved for years/decades they could come off with the threads from the heads.  That is an expensive repair that could be avoided - and for more expensive than a couple of nuts.

Two man job to lift the engine out.  But I would do it as a complete unit.  Cylinders give you something to hold on to.

The engine mount bolts can also be difficult - you might have to draw them out with  extra nuts and packing.

Here is a picture....Of my mate when we put the engine back in.

Cheers

[luckyd20]

Thanks everyone!

The reason I want to tear it down is that I want to paint the frame. Also I figured it would be easier for me to replace some gaskets and grommets that are leaking. They aren't very bad leaks but it's leaking from the push rod tubes along with the rear half of the oil pan. I don't have a bike lift so instead of working on the ground and messing up my knees and back it would be best to work on a work bench.

Thanks for the tip on working on it every day. I think that's my biggest fear is loosing interested and having a bike completely disassembled. But like you said I plan to do a little bit at a time every day so I don't get bored with it or over whelmed.

[montmil]

If you have oil dripping off the rear of the oil pan "shelf", odds are good that you have a leaking neutral indicator switch.

The BMW OEM units are notorius for springing leaks where the plastic body joins a crimped on aluminum bit. Some forum members have had them leak as soon as new OEM parts were installed!

Motobins has a repop, Italian-made switch that doesn't have the poor design of the German unit. Use a new aluminum crush washer. I'm using the Itliano in one of my R65s.

[luckyd20]

That was one of the first things I checked when I was investigating the oil leak. From what i can see it's from the oil pan gasket along with the push rod tubes grommets. But I will more than likely change my neutral switch

[steve hawkins]

It could also be the rear main seal make sure you check when the engine is out.

[luckyd20]

Thanks! will do!