Re-Torque Heads before valve adjustment

[Barry]

When I've done it I just backed off the rocker arm adjustment which allows some rotation of the rocker arm to check for free movement but there is not enough slack to remove the push Rods without either depressing the valve or lifting the rocker shaft support blocks. I didn't go to that trouble.

[Barry]

When I adjusted the rocker arm play I just backed off the rocker arm adjustment which allows some rotation of the rocker arm to check for free movement but even with the adjusters backed right off there is not enough slack to remove the push Rods without either depressing the valve or lifting the rocker shaft support blocks. I didn't go to that trouble but probably should have.

The rocker arms and shaft support pillars may not be exactly square so it really is possible to have them bind. I was a bit enthusiastic with the G clamp at the first attempt and had to do the adjustment again.

[Bob_Roller]

I put shims between the rocker arm and the end support blocks .

Did it 78,000 miles ago and haven't touched it since .

Item # 17 in the illustration .


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0364&mospid=51897&btnr=11_1698&hg=11&fg=34

[tvrla]

I believe those shims are for the newer style, but seems they should work for our older ones as well. I like that idea, Bob!

I just checked the parts fiche and compatability. I think those were introduced in 85 on the R65, but the parts fiche shows them for all of the airheads. The earlier bikes didn't have them originally, so it must be a retrofit item.

[Bob_Roller]

If you get replacement rockerarms, regardless of year, you get the upgraded arms, which have a plastic insert on one end and you need to shim them, too much of a end gap to let it go .

I was told that you couldn't use the shims on the old style, well, I won't argue with anyone about it, I've done it and the original shims have lasted 78,000 miles .

It's quick, easy and once done you really don't have to check it again .

It would be a good idea to check them and make sure they aren't coming apart every once in a while  .

I left a .003 in (.08 mm) gap after the shims are installed .

If you do install shims and have two different thickness shims on the same rocker arm, put the thin shim against the support black, not next to the rocker arm .

[Red_Hen]

Hi Gang

Well, I'm just now getting out of my "zone"

The left cylinder valves were right on.
Right cylinder, with the "new" head was off - exhaust was tight and intake was just a little loose but not much.  Before I adjusted the valves, checked torque values on head and everything was good.

Finding TDC was a challenge - if I'd had a partner, would have been much easier.  I picked up a tip the Airhead Forum Administrator - his handle is 20774 - here's how he does it - worked well for me:

As for the revolutions and setting valves, I don't think about what pistons are doing and which of the four stages of a 4-cycle engine they're in. The object is you want to set the valves for the side that is at TDC on the compression stroke. I usually start on the left side, bike in 4th or 5th gear, valve cover off, standing behind the bike. I grab the rear wheel spokes and begin to turn it in its normal direction, watching the valves. When I see the intake vavle open (ah, intake stroke!), then close, any more turning puts that side on the compression stroke. I stop turning the wheel at the back, sit down on the left side of the bike, and use my hand to bump the rear wheel until the TDC shows up. Ready to set the valves on the left side. You can then just rotate the flywheel 360 degrees to be at the proper position for the right side. But I go through the same process, this time watching the right intake rocker. This assures I haven't missed the TDC mark on the right side.

As usual, thanks so much!  Started her up and she purrs like a kitten.