Relocating Battery Negative Cable

[Bob_Roller]

The crimped on connector on the ground cable for the battery is getting a bit loose, recrimped it a few years ago, but it looks like it is in need of replacement .

My idea, is to relocate it from the transmission vent bolt, to the lower forward engine to transmission bolt .

This bolt has a nut on the forward side, my plan was to put the negative cable under the nut, so it is in contact with the engine case .

Also while I'm at it, I was going to add a heavy gauge wire from the main ground for the electrical circuits for the bike that's located in the relay area on the '81 and later model year bikes, run this wire back to the negative post on the battery .

It's a real slow work day, and I'm thinking waaaayyyyyy to much !!!!!

[montmil]

Both good ideas, Bob.

I have read amongst the Airheads Beemer Club about some owners running a secondary ground wire from the negative battery post up front to the diode board grounding point. "They say" this bypasses the multiple gaskets and other potential resistance issues and insures a reliable ground plus may help perk up low charging issues.

I have made up primary battery cables using appropriate size copper lugs sourced at Ace Hardware & BMW Supply. I use my aircraft Nico press tool to secure the lug-cable junction. I'm positive you know what that tool is.

[Bob_Roller]

I should have the next two days off, my plan was to remove the tank, I'm almost at reserve now, use a length of sting and measure the required length and go to the local auto parts stores and see want I can find for pre made cables .

The extra wire from the diode board was a thought, but this weekend is probably our last relief from the rapidly approaching 'hot season' .

That may need to wait for cooler weather in October, when I'm on vacation to get involved with that .

[montmil]

If you have trouble finding a correct length battery cable at FLAPS, many NAPA stores -at least in these parts- will make custom length cables with the wire gauge and terminals customer spec'd.

I've gone this route, too.

[Bob_Roller]

Thanks for the tip, I'll keep that in mind !!!!

Going out to the garage and measure the cable lenght now and get some other wrk done on the '82 LS .

Quite pleasant at this time, 85 F. in the garage at 1630 .

[Bob_Roller]

I replaced the negative cable today, got a pre made cable at one of the chain type auto parts stores .

I measured the length to be 28 inches, the choices I had, were 26 and 32 inches .

Got the 32 inch cable and bent the terminal ends 90 degrees to fit on the battery and the lower right transmission bolt, left the washer off of the nut side .

I would say, that the 30 inch cable would have been a better fit than the 32 inch cable .

There's about a 50% increase in conductor diameter, over the OEM cable .









For owners that don't know this already, the bolt that holds the speedometer drive cable in the transmission, is a hollow bolt, to vent the transmission and driveshaft housing .

If the bike is new to you, check to see if you have the correct bolt, both of my LS's, had solid bolts installed .

Not a bad idea to check the vent orifice to make sure it's clear every once in a while .

[wa1udg]

  If you can find someone with a "solder pot" you can solder the whole works by dipping it.  Does a beautiful job if done right.  Mil spec.  

[Bob_Roller]

Soldering both ends was a thought, but with the minimal amount of moisture the bike gets exposed to, it's not overly critical living in a desert, the bike gets washed once or twice a year, if I get caught in a summer thunderstorm maybe one or two times more .

The OEM cable had solder on both ends, never noticed that before .