New bike maintenance time.

[mango]

Hello all- Some weekend soon I'm going to get to fix the few items my recently arrived bike desperately needs. It's an '83 R65, (and oh is it fun).

Slow turns are definately a bit wobbly though, the steering head probably hasn't been greased for 20k miles if ever. Up on the centerstand the frount end's got  a significant lock-up going straight ahead. Should I plan on replacing the bearings/races? Or just greasing 'em? Getting that bottom bearing off w/o trashing the dust cover looks to be a pain. The penny/time pincher in me wants to just grease what's there but the realist can't imagine them being salvagable.

Second element to address are the final drive seals. Bob did you successfully take care of 'em? Did you replace more than the big one? Over on Boxerworks somebody was going on about needing to replace 3. How long did it take you?

A tangent of that fix is needing to replace the oily brake shoes as there's not much grab at all. (There's a decent drip of gear oil from the drum bottom.) Anybody get their shoes resoled anymore? Sure seems cheaper that a $70 set of new ones. Bad idea?? There's a shop nearby w/ a 2 day turnaround for 1/2 the cost.

Wanna get the parts all together so it all hapens smoothly (hah!) Haven't had to get many parts since my local indepentent shop closed. (Anyone ever stop in at Poke's Cycle in Seattle? Ross never won any prizes for his social skills, but that was a stunning shop- ooold Indian hill-climber complete w/ chains and a flat tire next to a Norton Manx next to a Vincent next to half a dozen 60's & 70's BMWs plus parts everywhere. Ross knew his bikes too.) That was pre internet. Where to order from? How long does it take a Motobins package to get to the US? Quicker than Chicago BMW would send out it seems. Hucky's? Bob's? Boxerworks?

Alright - enough ?s already. Gotta go ouside and enjoy a 10 pm summer sunset/twilight. - Cheers  Dan

[Ed Miller]

How many miles are on the bike?  If you first clean the bearings, then discover that they are bad, you just have to finish taking the front apart to get to them.  I didn't skip replacing them because I'm cheap, but because as you suggested it's a pain in the butt to get them out.  The bearings are cheap, and when I have to do that job I'll buy the tool made by Ed Korn.  Mine were fine at 26,000 miles and merely needed cleaned and relubed.

I haven't had to replace my drive seals.  Oil was leaking onto my brake shoes through the brake lever shaft; when I replaced those o-rings (2 on my bike) the leaking stopped.  I'm prone to not replacing seals unless I know they are leaking.  If you have lots of meat on the brake shoes still you could try degreasing them really well with brake cleaner and see how they work.  

I use my local dealer for parts, so I don't know who to suggest for ordering.  Boxerworks supports our transportation choice (NOT hobby!) and so does Ted Porter at Boxerworks.  

Have fun bonding with your bike!

[suecanada]

My '83 LS got a terrible notchiness and stiffness to the steering head so this springtime I did the greasing job and did not replace any bearings....all notchiness disappeared and the bike's history shows NO sterring head bearing work ever done after 85,000 miles. So there is a good chance you will be able to just add "clean and grease: to your list of things to do!  The blow by blow for my job is on this forum's search function I think.

I get that oil on my rear brake shoes too and it's from the brake actuating arm with those O-rings on it leaking. It has been suggested here that once you clean the brake shoes with brake cleaner, you rough them up with 60 grit on the shoes and 22 grit on the linings.  "They" suggest that the shoes be removed and the shoes scruffed over the sandpaper laying on a flat surface; not the sandpaper moved over the shoes.  That's all I know!!

[Chris_in_BC]

. It's an '83 R65.

Slow turns are definitely a bit wobbly though, the steering head probably hasn't been greased for 20k miles if ever. Up on the centerstand the front end's got  a significant lock-up going straight ahead. Should I plan on replacing the bearings/races? Or just greasing 'em? Getting that bottom bearing off w/o trashing the dust cover looks to be a pain.

Order a couple of dust covers, they are real cheap. You won't get it off without damage.  You only need one, but have one for the next time or bike.  
Agree with others, clean out the old bearings, and if they don't look real notched try the regreasing. If they are notched replace them. As someone commented that aren't a major cost. I did my bearings this spring in a few hours, no real problems. ( I drilled the steering head and centre punched the bearings out, but proper tools (Ed Korn) are available for the more fastidious, or a welder works great.)  

.
A tangent of that fix is needing to replace the oily brake shoes as there's not much grab at all. (There's a decent drip of gear oil from the drum bottom.) Anybody get their shoes resoled anymore? Sure seems cheaper that a $70 set of new ones. Bad idea?? There's a shop nearby w/ a 2 day turnaround for 1/2 the cost.

Hard to find places that re-line shoes anymore, so if you have a place give it a shot. But I understand you should really give them the wheel as well, so they can match the curvature properly. The company I contacted wanted the wheel and final drive, so everything could be properly aligned. (Wasn't practical as cost of shipping out weighed and savings)
If the pads have meat, I would consider Sue's ideas on cleaning them.

.

Where to order from? How long does it take a Motobins package to get to the US? Quicker than Chicago BMW would send out it seems. Hucky's? Bob's? Boxerworks?

I like Moto-Bins personally because I can work my way around on their on-line catalogue. It is rare they are out of stock on anything, and stuff arrives to my small town in Western Canada within a week to 10 days. Best has been 4 days.
I have also dealt with Matt at Boxerworks and had great service

Re final drive leak. As Rob commented, clean it up first and find where the leak is coming from first. Either the big seal or the brake rod O-rings.

[NC Steve]

Where to order from? How long does it take a Motobins package to get to the US? Quicker than Chicago BMW would send out it seems. Hucky's? Bob's? Boxerworks?

Dan, don't overlook Hammersley BMW, in Virginia, http://www.webparts.com/cycles/ficheframeset.cfm?tablename=R65_1
They have an online parts fiche, are nearly as cheap as Chicago BMW, and are about a jillion times faster in shipping too.
Can't go wrong there. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]