Clutch cable stretching? Need part number....

[Bob_Roller]

That washer most likely will not come off, it's a pressed fit .

To get the pushrod out, you need to remove the swing arm, at least pull it back a few inches or so, or drop it down so the pushrod clears it .

The bearing, washer and pushrod move as an assembly.

If you look at the end of the pushrod, it's got a threaded hole for some sort of removal tool .

[VaSteve]

That washer most likely will not come off, it's a pressed fit .

   I don't understand it being a pressed fit.      I don't see that in any of the manuals.  How would I press it back on once replaced?

It seems like we're in agreement that this can be done without taking the whole transmission off but moving the swingarm.  Good.

[Bob_Roller]

Do you need to replace the washer ?

It doesn't rotate, or do anything other than move in and out when the clutch lever is moved .

[VaSteve]

Do you need to replace the washer ?

.

I don't know.   I was going to get a new bearing and was going to replace this if I was putting in a parts order.  

The washer does spin on the rod.  At least on this bike...

Looking at the other thread I linked to, it looks like "biocruiser" had his washer "fuse" to the rod...post 73.  

[Bob_Roller]

When I've removed the transmissions on my R65's, the washer has never been loose on the rod, maybe I have it wrong !!!!!!

Never really thought about it before, but it might rotate when the push rod contacts the diaphragm spring .

[VaSteve]

We might both be right....mine is an '80... the parts are different.


Meh....not looking forward to taking this all apart.  I hope I can shortcut it with a little disassembly of the swingarm.  

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Steve, I would forget any shortcuts at this point and remove the gearbox from the bike.
The inner washer SHOULD come right out with the magnet, effortlessly.

I think you are looking at replacing the push rod, too.  It should not be flared on the front side of the washer like I am seeing in your picture.

Your bearing has been gone for quite a while, it appears, and there has been a lot of heat generated there.

Sorry for the bad news.

Don't forget new bolts for the output flange/universal joint when you order your bearing.

As far as the push rod goes, I would get one from one of the breakers.

You will also need a new felt if the push rod you get has the gap for it, and the only way to install the new felt is to insert the push rod from the front of the gearbox.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Used parts dealers:

http://www.re-psycle.com/

http://martindalemotorcycleworks.com/A55A76/home.nsf

The good news is, the same part was used in /6 & /7 airheads as well as the R65.

Re-Psycle will probably have a used rod (23 13 1 232 089) as well as a new felt and a new or used inner plate (washer).

How does that rubber gasket look on the piston?

It is possible the face of the piston was damaged as well.  The new bearing won't like it if it has.
Again, used parts should be readily available.

[VaSteve]

Rob, thanks.  I hadn't thought that the challenge would be to *install* the new rod...thus needing to do it from the front.  Ho hum.   I guess I should do it right.  

I also have some old cars.  One guy I met that has a Turbo version of one of the cars and I were talking about how he'd taken the entire thing apart and repaired it over the years.  I said I heard the Turbos were a pain because of all the piping and what not.  He said "it's just nuts and bolts..."

Hell, this bike has been down to the bare frame this year, should come apart easy.     This little bike is nickle and diming me to death, but it's cheaper than my other hobbies.  

[donbmw]

Steve

It apears that your rod  was not welded to the pressure plate. The washer that is on your rod normally slips right off. When you remove the tranmission look at your pressure plate where the rod touches.  When the rod does not spin it will weld to the pressure plate. You are going to need to replace the rod, washer, bearing, piston, and felt at least.

Don

[VaSteve]

Oh got all this apart and back together.  What a monster pain in the butt.   I still have to adjust the clutch since it will now not let t he clutch seat on the flywheel.  

I do have a question.   I bouht parts 1-6 in this diagram.   I cannot figure out part #6.   It doesn't really seat and seems as if it would just fall out otherwise...I don't recall what it was like when I took it apart last fall.   Anyone have a photo of your bike?

[VaSteve]

http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51897&catID=21&catname=Clutch&bindName=CLUTCH_CONTROL&bindCat=21_0069

The diagram.....  This board and iPad are not compatible.

[Bob_Roller]

Your post linked fine for me .

Can't help you identifying part # 6, I've got later bikes with different parts .

[donbmw]

Item 6 is a seal that fits in the slot on item 5.

[bruce_launceston]

Are you sure it's not the cable? I was riding home and had similar symptoms and as I pulled up to my garage door and pulled the clutch lever in the cable broke not far from the lever.