crguy's similar Gas delivery problem

[Bob_Roller]

Well, so much for an ignition coil problem !!!!!

Are the plugs wet with fuel after an attempted start ??

[crguy]

 Bob, just double checked spark, it seems blueish white..in fact doesn"t seem as intense like previous chks...I think we have weak spark, have the battery (new ) on charge (12.4 v) now

[crguy]

Checking coil connections, not to get off subject to much but I came across a set of twin plugged heads 3 years ago with Accel coils, couldn't resist, this just might be the opportunity

[crguy]

Just left the bike on charger, Bob, I think it is a weak spark, need to charge battery overnight to ensure proper amperage, this is the original sept. 1982 coil..I've been reluctant to swap to the twin plug heads out of fear of a cylinder stud thread possibly stripping out...is this a 50/50 chance even with taking precautions...thanks by the way to all for your insight and suggestions....

[tvrla]

You may have more than one fault. It would seem logical that the problem is related to running out of gas, but it is possible something else failed at the same time.

When the 'logical suspects' approach doesn't garner results, time to start at #1 on the troubleshooting list and work your way through.

Not starting on ether pretty well tells me there's an ignition fault. My gut feeling is the Hall sensor. I've gone in circles on that one a few times because it's possible to have a spark, but it's at the wrong time and not necessarily consistent.

You do know how to test the bean can, right?

[crguy]

Definitely ignition, I tie wraped one plug to ground and turned on ignition and then hit the kill switch on and off several times and the spark was not consistent in intensity, and then after several more times no spark at all..I then waited a couple minutes the spark came back then faded away again while alternating the kill off/on.... thinking coil myself.

[Bob_Roller]

You need to check the resistance of the primary and secondary circuits of the coil .

Primary circuit should be around 1.5 ohms, the secondary circuit in the 11-13K ohms area, or there abouts .

[Barry]

Definitely ignition, I tie wraped one plug to ground and turned on ignition and then hit the kill switch on and off several times and the spark was not consistent in intensity, and then after several more times no spark at all..I then waited a couple minutes the spark came back then faded away again while alternating the kill off/on....

I think a more consistent test than operating the kill switch would be to crank the engine over with the plugs out and tied to earth. One thing that does is show you the spark intensity at cranking voltages - well a little more than cranking voltage as it will crank more easily and a fair bit faster with no compression. You can always put spare plugs in the holes for a more realistic cranking load.

[crguy]

It was the coil...I really appreciate the responses and sincere help you guys freely offer...
I did install the dual plug heads with the  Accel coils wired up and she fired right up

[Bob_Roller]

That was a bit of work for a bad coil !!!!!!!!!!!

[crguy]

Ha, ya I know....I've had these heads and coils on the shelve for quite a while, with 110k miles on original ones and the breakdown I decided now is the time to go for the change out.

[Bob_Roller]

Did the Accel coils fit in the original spot where the OEM coil was mounted ??

[crguy]

One fit at the dual tower original location, the provided bracket aligned with one frame threaded hole and the other end of the bracket bar had to be attached using a store bought 1" electrical conduit strapped to the frame, the second coil I placed transversely across the down tubes just behind the fuel tank and above the battery.  

[crguy]

The forward coil feeds the top plugs with 20" HT wires while the rear coil uses 30" HT wires with 5K NGK caps.

[Bob_Roller]

I was just curious, another option available for after market ignition coils .