Timing Chain

[montmil]

[smiley=clap.gif] Rubi76 rocks... or at least, hammers. [smiley=furious3.gif] works every time.

After all your trials n' tribulations with the exhaust, the timing chain ought to be cake. Luck to ya.

[Rubi76]

1 x home made rotor puller. Made from a High tensile bolt then trimmed to fit , worked like a charm.

[Bob_Roller]

Other than the double nut, it's the same as the OEM tool .

[Rubi76]

Hi Guys ,

The Tensioners for timing chain.

The chain tensioner looks worn out but the slide rail still looks ok.  Should I replace the slide rail ?







Thank goodness there is a master link on the timing chain

[montmil]

Replace both the slide rail and chain tensioner. They are not expensive. Also, be sure to replace the coil spring behind the tensioner piston. The spring can lose tension over the years, reducing the proper pressure exerted on the chain -as mine had done on the '81. Another low priced bit.

I see the dimple in the cam sprocket. Clean it off and dab some white paint in it. Pull the spark plugs and rotate the engine to TDC on the right-side cylinder. Confirm and double check. The dimple should now be at high noon, 12 o'clock.

You may be able to spot the tiny, scratch of an alignment mark on the crankshaft sprocket; maybe not. Small inspection mirror and flashlight. Clean and paint the tooth at the 6 o'clock position -directly opposite the dimple.

Now you can remove the chain with the confidence that you'll be able to set the cam timing correctly during reassembly.

Poke some shop towels in those crankcase openings.

[Rubi76]

Will do !

Thanks Monte  

[Boxer_Bolshie]

Just did the timing rail, guide, and spring following Monte's directions to the "T"!  [smiley=beerchug.gif]

[Semper Gumby]

When you replace the fixed slide rail I was told that it should depress the chain 1mm.  I couldn't find that written anywhere...

[montmil]

When you replace the fixed slide rail I was told that it should depress the chain 1mm.  I couldn't find that written anywhere...

Hmmm... Told by whom?

When you consider using the guide rail to depress the chain, this will only result in rapid wear of the guide and a greater dependency on the operation of the chain tensioning system. Under operation, the guide rail side of the chain is under load and being pulled in a straight line between the cam and crank gears. The guide is positioned parallel to the chain with perhaps a very slight 'kiss', no more, as no tensioning is required on this side of the chain; the running engine is doing it for you.

The "unloaded" portion of the chain will have a bit of slack taken out by the pressure exerted by the tensioner spring against the chain tensioner shoe.

I did substantial due diligence through multiple websites and Airhead gurus prior to replacing the timing chain. The chain guide should be positioned in a way that does not depress the chain's run as this will lead to rapid guide wear.

As seen in Rubi76's photos, there was practically zero wear on his guide rail as it was correctly aligned. His tension shoe was almost worn through to metal.

Also, please note that both the Clymer and Haynes manuals clearly state that the guide rail is to be installed parallel to the timing chain.