Timing Chain

[Rubi76]

 [smiley=grin.gif] [smiley=dankk2.gif]

...I have loosened all the clamps and mufflers on the bike but that right header pipe is holding on tight...

1. PB Blaster and overnight soak, [smiley=bath.gif]

2. Make rude references about the bike's bovine mother, [smiley=cowsleep.gif]
3. Liberal application of a couple adult beverages, [smiley=beerchug.gif]

4.  [smiley=smash.gif]

 [smiley=grin.gif]

[smiley=dankk2.gif] I will closely follow this step by step guide

[tvrla]

I use a rubber mallet to tap (or whack) the header pipe from inside the bend to force it forward. They can bind if one side has moved more than the other, so tap them back in and start over. You got one to move, so tap it back in and tap on the other side.

These dual crossover headers are a super pain to install and remove. I don't care if they produce more hp, I think I'll get rid of both crossovers and make it loads easier!

[montmil]

These dual crossover headers are a super pain to install and remove. I don't care if they produce more hp, I think I'll get rid of both crossovers and make it loads easier!

Gotta agree with you there, 'Spokes. The dual X-overs on my '81s headers are permanently married; ain't no divorce in their future. Should I ever get a wild hair and buy new header tubes, they will be minus the cross-overs; even if those stubs have to be capped off.

When I did the timing chain refurb, I removed the headers and cross-overs as a single unit. The center stand had to be up, then down, then up, then... sorta like a BMW Rubics Cube, but it's doable. PITA, but doable.

Monte

[tvrla]

When I did the timing chain refurb, I removed the headers and cross-overs as a single unit. The center stand had to be up, then down, then up, then... sorta like a BMW Rubics Cube, but it's doable. PITA, but doable.

LOL  

My same exact feelings! Ditch the damn things, they're not worth the trouble!

[Rubi76]

2 hours of hammering away  [smiley=smash.gif] and nada, Right side header aint budging.

The left header is loose, how exactly does the darn thing get so tight ?

[montmil]

Anyone have an objection to and/or other thoughts on the application of some heat?

Use a propane torch to caress the area of the cylinder head around the exhaust port? Heat the cylinder head enough to get some aluminum expansion...

This issue gets stranger and strangerer  :-/

[Rubi76]

Hi Monte,

I am taking the Bike to someone to get the pipes off and open the timing chest. This is taking way to much time for what should be a fairly straight forward repair.

I will update as soon as the pipes have been separated from the head.

[montmil]

Sounds like a plan.  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[Bob_Roller]

The first time I removed the header pipes to replace the timing chain, I had a difficult time getting the pipes out of the head .

When they finally did come out, the pipes 'sprang' outwards and if you got one pipe lined up with the hole in the head, the other pipe was about .50 inches (13mm) from being lined up with the other head .

I had to take the crossover pipes apart to get the exhaust system back on the bike .

If and or when you get the pipes apart, a liberal coating of anti-seize compound on the mating joints, will make it easier to get them apart again if needed .  

[Rubi76]

  do we really need those cross over pipes ?

I see the cross over pipe at the back is cracked and the left hand side where it goes into the muffler is starting to rust through. Might have to see if I can get that one replaced. So far spending more time working on the bike then riding it

[tvrla]

There are conflicting ideas on those crossovers. One camp says they help low-end power, the other says they're only there for noise reduction. I tend to agree with the latter, and have never seen a dyno graph proving the former. I had an R1100S with the crossover removed and noticed no difference in low end power, and that bike is geared fairly tall so you think I'd notice.

I have noticed a more definite and emphatic exhaust note when crossovers are removed. I have an 84 R100 that came with the dual crossover headers and hated it so much I cut off the rear and welded them smooth. Even if those crossovers aren't rusty and sealed tight together, they can be a bitch to separate. So usually, once they're together, they stay together and eventually the only way to separate the headers is to sever the crossovers.

I've been wanting to perform a xoverectomy on the LS for some time now. But the headers are in good enough shape I hate to hack them up (am I sounding goofy or what???) so am waiting for either a set of early headers or cheap dual xovers to modify.

[Adrian]

There are conflicting ideas on those crossovers.

Hi guys - this is very interesting cos I'm also sick of fiddling with the total system to get it on and off. Although mine come apart easy enough once off - I still hate the faffing around to get the whole system back on. So, if I understand the posts, I could find a wat to seal of the tubes where the crossovers go - probably a plug that I can clamp on maybe - and the bike will run okay. I'm in the niddle of a restoration so I going to have to re tune the carbs and wotnot. My pipes are the StainTune system for the R65 - mines a 1984 twin rear shock.
Thanks for any comments and further help - Adrian .....................

[tvrla]

Just plugging the crossover (in front anyway) would look wonky, but you could experiment by doing just that. Then if you decide to go with it, you've got perfect pipes to modify. A good welder can cut off the stubs and use the bits to weld up the holes. A good job, once smoothed and polished would be invisible.

[Adrian]

thanks Wirespokes - I'm so fed up with the awkward and diifcult process - I shall get this done when I have some other minor welding done - thanks again for such useful advice. Adrian ....................

[Rubi76]

Finally the Exhaust if free - all it needed was a really,really big hammer and some choice words !

Looks like the exhaust had a little bit of a ding put in it that made it twist slightly.
Anyway managed to get it off with the xover pipes attached and intact as a whole and lowered it down to the ground and completed the twisty dance to get it past the center stand.

Now to pop open that timing chest....