R65 (1981) altenator

[Bob_Roller]

Without that indicator light, you have no idea if the charging system is working properly .

One of our members here (Monte) installed a Vapor instrument cluster, it's all LCD's, he put a light in the 10mm hex in the steering head nut, ran the wires from the bottom this was for an oil pressure light, the steering stem is hollow, just an idea .

Don't use an LED type bulb it needs to be an incandescent, it doesn't have enough resistance to properly operate the voltage regulator circuit .

[montmil]

There is an easy DIY solid-state replacement circuit that can be substituted for the GEN lamp. It can also be fitted as a backup system in the event your gen bulb goes Tango Uniform.

Rick Jones used to sell the item but I notice it is no longer shown on his web site catalog. So easy to create, perhaps sales were slow.

The Snowbum has all the details... naturally. http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/genlampresistor.htm

I have the circuit on both my R65s. The '83 still has the stock cow's tongue and instrument pod with the GEN lamp. The '81 runs only the modified GEN lamp replacement circuit.

Everything you'll need is available at the Shack.

Monte

[MR.E]

Cheers for the info, I'll look at it tomorrow

Just in the garage with the bike, if I plug a light on the end of the blue cable (& a brown) it doesn't illuminate but it does if I touch the black (& brown).
Does that mean it's Knackered anyway??

[Bob_Roller]

If you are talking about the black wire at the tachometer connector, that wire comes from the ignition coil to operate the tachometer .

A solid brown wire, without any colored spiral band on it should be a ground, or earth wire .

Could very well be that you other problems, you just need to go about it in a methodical manner .

[MR.E]

Hello

Yep, a solid brown and the black in the tacho block.
With the blue it didn't light & when the brown and blue were connected there was no difference on the charge to the battery ( seemed to stay at 12.8v on the meter)

Any recommendations of what to tackle first?
Thanks

[Bob_Roller]

You need to check the blue wire from the diode board to the tachometer connector for continuity .

The blue wire goes through a two wire connector somewhere in the wire harness, then goes to the diode board at the front of the engine under the front cover.  

[MR.E]

hello

so i found the blue & brown wire, i connected them to one of the dash bulbs - so i'd know if the altenator works when i start looking about - but as the weather is so nice i went for a ride today & whilst out on the ride the bulb lit up!

I'd rode allday without the lights on  then 10 mins after riding with the lights on the bulb comes on.
It doesn't come on when i turn the ignition on & if i'm at traffic lights for a while it'll go out but come back when i set off.

SO is this normal for the R65??

thanks

[Bob_Roller]

The normal  "GEN" light operation on an R65, when you turn the key to the "ON" position, the light should come on .

After starting the engine, the light will go out when the engine rpm's get to around the 1400-1500 rpm range (all bikes are different, some go out earlier) .

The light should stay out until you bring the engine rpm's back to idle, then, it may stay on bright, or sometimes flicker or fade out then come back on .

So, above 1400- 1500 rpm's or there abouts the light should always be out .

[MR.E]

Hmmmmm

I've no idea then!
On idle it flickers and goes out eventually
But if I set off it comes back on and stays on for the duration

Is that an indication of a fault?

If not i may just replace the interior of the alternator!

Cheers

[Bob_Roller]

If the light is on, it's indicating that the charging system is not charging .

You need to find out what's wrong, before you start replacing parts, it may be a wiring problem and replacing parts may be a futile and expensive effort without fixing the problem !!!!!!!

[MR.E]

hello again

I've just taken the altenator cover off the inards bit that bolts on the end of the shaft.
is there a tool/correct way to pull of the old spinning bit (sorry, you may notice i lack the knowledge of the correct mechanical terms!!)

thanks

Elliott

[Bob_Roller]

The rotor, that's the part bolted to the end of the crankshaft, you need a special tool to remove it, don't try prying or beating on it .

The tool isn't expensive, here in North America, they are about $5US.

[tvrla]

A word of future caution: when replacing the stator (the static - non rotating part of the alternator) be extremely careful to get it started evenly into its mounting spot. If it gets cocked and it's not noticed, then the torque of the mounting screws can break the aluminum housing. Not a good thing at all!

The part you're removing is called - get this... the ROTOR. :-) Because it rotates. Must not have been an engineer that named these things.

I've seen rotors removed with gear pullers, and they get a bit damaged in the process. Not enough to make them unuseable, but still not a good thing. The proper tool is a very hard bolt something like 80mm long with threads removed half way to the end, so it's only got threads from the head to half way. Thread it in, bottoms out against the crank, and POP!, it's loose.  

[MR.E]

A word of future caution: when replacing the stator (the static - non rotating part of the alternator) be extremely careful to get it started evenly into its mounting spot. If it gets cocked and it's not noticed, then the torque of the mounting screws can break the aluminum housing. Not a good thing at all!

The part you're removing is called - get this... the ROTOR. :-) Because it rotates. Must not have been an engineer that named these things.

I've seen rotors removed with gear pullers, and they get a bit damaged in the process. Not enough to make them unuseable, but still not a good thing. The proper tool is a very hard bolt something like 80mm long with threads removed half way to the end, so it's only got threads from the head to half way. Thread it in, bottoms out against the crank, and POP!, it's loose.  

Hello

cheers for the info.........the rotor hey!!!
think i've some rods that'll do that job then.
What is the name of the rotor cover, with all the connectors on it?

Cheers

[Bob_Roller]

It' called a stator .

The tool that's used to remove the rotor, is hardened, if you use threaded rod, most likely it will bend inside the crankshaft .

Then you've got a real job to get it undone !!!!!!!!!!!!