1982 R65LS 14,800 miles BRAKES

[jgp1854]

What is the best way to determine if I need to replace the front (Brembo) disc pads, and the rear shoes?

What brand of disc/shoes do you recommend and where to buy them?

If I replace them, is the task complex, I'm fairly handy, but don't want to take on something that needs special skills, or tools.  Is there a link to provide directions to do so?

thanks

jgp

[Bob_Roller]

For the front brake pads, remove the plastic cover from the caliper, you should be able to see a groove that's molded into the brake material .

Removing the pads is probably the best method, no question about how much wear they have, just in case the pads haven't worn at an angle .

The rear brake shoes, you need to remove the rear wheel and take a look at them .

It's not difficult at all .

[Julio A.]

Dive in, it's a simple task. Follow Bob's advice above.

Remove the plastic cover; prying it open with a flat screwdriver, then inspect the pads. minimum thickness as specified in the repair manual is 1.5mm.

If it does need replacement, You can unbolt the caliper and the brake line joint from the fork without disconnecting the brake line from the caliper(as it would become messy), tie the caliper to the frame to relieve pressure from the brake line, pop off the two pins that hold the pads in place(Pay special attention to the small "pin" that hold the pads centre as well as the small leaf spring). From there, you can now properly inspect the pads, clean the inside and check the piston shrouds.

When putting the pads back on, I put a small amount of copper grease to the contact point of the brake pad and caliper piston. This fixes any annoying breaks squeal.

As for the Rear brake, relieve the pressure on the brake shoes and brake lever by fully unscrewing the rear brake adjustment bolt. You do not have to remove the lever from the rear brake cam. You can then remove the rear wheel. from the bike, exposing the rear brake shoes. The rear brake minimum pad thickness is also 1.5mm. You could also inspect the final drive oil seal for any weeping gear oil as well as check the rear brake shoes for any oil contamination. Check the rear drive splines located on the wheel was well as it's mating crown gear in the final drive for wear. Grease these splines during assembly.

Tools needed are a good set of box wrenches, crescent wrenches, a flat screwdriver and a small rubber mallet(for popping out the front brake pad pin).

Good luck!  

[montmil]

EBC FA18 disc brake pads are a popular replacement for the Brembo caliper. I prefer the organic compound. With the caliper removed, it's a good time to inspect the pistons and seals. Eyeball the brake's hydraulic hose for possible damage or breakdown. Upon refit, flush and renew the brake fluid. All done.

The rear brakes shoes for the R65s are model specific. Be advised; R65 brakes shoes will not fit the R65LS models and vice-versa. IIRC, I bought my new shoes from Motobins.

[Barry]

Don't know about the LS but on 78  - 80 models at least the rear brake shoes can be inspected for wear by looking through the ventilation holes on the left hand side of the wheel. You should be able to see the aluminium of the brake shoes and the friction material as two separate layers. Minimum thickness is 1.5 mm same as for the pads. It's almost inconceivable that they would be worn to the limit as they last a very very long time like 100,000 miles minimum. Short of contamination you don't hear of anyone changing them because they were worn out.

Depending on the width of tire fitted removing the rear wheel may or may not be simple but you should learn what is need in your case. Some remove the front wheel and with the centre stand lashed in position tip the bike forward onto the forks so the the rear wheel can drop out. I prefer to remove the rear mudguard as there is no way my wheel will come out past the fitted rubber mudflap.

[Bob_Roller]

The LS wheels don't have any inspection holes in them, like the 'snowflake' wheels do .

While you have the wheel off, you can clean and inspect the final drive and wheel splines .

Also a common problem, is the brake camshaft has two o-rings that seal out final drive gear lube, not uncommon for these to leak and contaminate the brake shoes .

[tvrla]

Word of caution:

If the front pads get replaced there are two things to remember:

1. The pistons will need to be retracted into their bores to make room for the extra thickness of the new pads. When you do this, brake fluid will be forced back into the master cylinder. If the reservoir is high, the level can overflow and cause quite a mess - wrecking paint in the process. So be careful and watch it closely.

2. Before retracting the pistons, clean them up. Not a good idea to force dirt, crud and corrosion past the seal and into the bore. These things have been out and exposed for who knows how long and in what sort of conditions, so clean em up.

One other thing - when filling the reservoir, keep fluid from going down the columns where the cover mounting screws go. Getting fluid down there corrodes the top of the MC and can lock the cover screws in place. It's also a good idea to put some anti seize on the ends of the cover screws.