Removing Left Pipe to install side stand

[Milo_357]

Any suggestion?  The tool fairy showed up with a removing tool head, which I promptly afixed a handle to, and now I can finally put the side stand on.

Any advice on  how to approach this so I don't break anything?

[montmil]

...a removing tool head...

Is this 'removing tool' for the exhaust header nuts?

[Bob_Roller]

If the exhaust nuts have never been off of the bike, they most likely won't come off easily .

If the nut moves a bit then stops, STOP, don't go any further, you'll most likely be removing the cylinder head to get the exhaust 'spigot' re-threaded .

It's quite common to destroy the threads while removing the nuts if they've been on there for decades .

Cut the nuts off if they get tight, the nuts are around $15-20US ( they are R65 specific, no other bike has this size nut), the heads are around $150 each to get repaired, not to mention the work you need to do to get them off and on again .

Upon reassembly, use anti-seize compound, it comes in two versions, one is copper based, the other is nickel based .

[benlawlor85]

I had this prob on my old R80, Nut wouldn't come off tried cutting it off in teh end but the thread was distroyed! :-( Bodged her in the end... which was a good thing as she was written off a few weeks later.
Now i re grease those nuts every time i do anywork on the bike... very paranoid... i hate rusted bolts, replaced most bolts on the bike with S/S lots oth A4 (thats marine grade) as i live by the sea it eats things. I also use marine under coat on the bike...

[Dizerens5]

Right, loosen those nuts every 6 months or so and put copper grease or similer on the threads.

[Milo_357]

So I don't want to try soaking around the nut with penetrating oil or something similar?

Monte, yeah, I meant for the exhaust head nuts.  I was having a senior moment...

Bob, if I have to, what do you suggest cutting the nuts off with?

Thanks!

Milo

[Bob_Roller]

A hacksaw or Dremel type rotary tool will work, just don't cut all the way to the threads .

With a deep enough cut, you should be able to to get the nut to seperate at the cut using a chisel at an angle to the cut, not down into it .

[montmil]

Use a close quarters hack saw handle with a coarse tooth blade mounted so as to cut on the "pull" stroke. Use tape to protect exhaust headers.

You'll feel the point when the exhaust nut has been cut through. Stop there. The release of tension will often allow the header nut to be removed by hand. If not, a cold chisel, used carefully, may split the nut.

Look closely at the photo. You can see the threaded stub of the cylinder head.

R65s utilize 35mm exhaust plumbing; including the header nuts. Don't make the mistake of buying header nuts for the wrong Airhead.

[Justin B.]

The last few I've cut off I used a Sawzall on.  Even if you get a bit carried away and get into the head threads a bit the new nut'll spin on just fine.  

[Milo_357]

Ok, this will sound kind stupid after all the cut it off comments, but should I at leat TRY and remove the nuts with the removal tool?  I haven't even tried yet, thats why I was wondering about the penetrating oil.

Thanks!

[tvrla]

The guys are giving you the worst case scenario. We've all been there, done that. And those of us promoting this solution (hacksaw) no doubt have buggered the threads at one time or another as well.

It's a mistake and lesson not soon forgotten.

But - that's not to say it will happen! I've worked on some of the rattiest pieces of junk that looked like they lived outside with no protection their whole lives, and fully expected to hacksaw the exhaust nuts. But they came loose normally, though maybe with a bit more initial effort.

So don't assume the worst!

Give it a try. Make sure you're loosening, not tightening!   I know, seems stupid, but it's easy to do.

If a good grunt doesn't loosen, strike a good blow with a dead blow or chunk of 2x4.

If that doesn't do it, heat it up with a propane torch and apply penetrating oil. Heating/cooling cycles and penetrant may just be the trick. Or get it good and warm on a ride.

Once it's turning, if it takes more than just a 1/2 lb of torque to unscrew the thing, especially if it goes an inch or two and seems to bind up again, cut that sucker off! Amputate!!! for its own good.  

[crguy]

Removed exhaust nuts for the first time last weekend, sprayed Blaster the day before and used wrench purchased from Northwoods, all went fine, this is after 30 years, could be luck although I believe my R65 was thoroughly dealer prepped because I lubed the spline for the first time just last summer and it still showed signs of grease after 29 years and 110,000 miles.

[Milo_357]

I succeeded in removing the exhaust nuts today. Slow and steady won the race.  The right side nut came off with zero problems.  The left was a bit tight, but never had that "Hey, I'm out of alignment and going to strip if you keep up!" feel to it.

Having a weighted dead blow from the workshop helped.  

Two things did happen that have me a tad bit concerned.

When I tried to loosen the Fillister-head screws on the crossbar, it snapped off. Completely.

Also, the left side nut does not seem to want to line up to the threads to screw back on.  It's almost as if the curve of the Exhaust pipe doesn't straighten enough for the threads to line up so they can screw on straight.

I believe this problem happened to a PO who just forced the nut on.  I know I feared the threads were out of line when I was unscrewing them. FORTUNATELY everything looks real good thread wise. No stripping apparent.  See photo.

Do you think it's the pipe, or the nut, or god forbid the cylinder (thank goodness for the parts bike... IF the cylinders are still good...)?

Any thoughts on correcting the situation?

Thanks guys,

Milo
T

[montmil]

Leave some looseness/slop in the header attach hardware. A gentle tap on the exhaust header to seat the pipe and then line up the exhaust nut and spin it on at least half way before beginning to snug up the headers. Don't forget the anti-seize. Mount the mufflers last.

Monte

[crguy]

Congrats Milo, pull system off bike and clean nut and exhaust port threads, then when its time to assemble insert pipe only far enough so the nut starts to thread on straight...Guy