wont accelerate, coughs and stops...?

[benlawlor85]

Hi All.
Just had an email from the guys at Dynatek UK

Coil is £70
and leads from them £13.

Think i might go with that...
what do you all think??


Ben

[Barry]

£70 is a bit more like it. Still more expensive than the same coil would bein the US but isn't everything.

Does it come with the mounting bracket ?

As Bob already mentioned the US supplier charges 90$ with the bracket.

[benlawlor85]

Hi Barry,
Think the bracket is ontop of that. I have just emailed them again asking about the bracket.
But its less than the BMW/bosch coil £98 from motorworks

90 US is about £60 add on shipping. and risk of having to pay duty and VAT and probs works out the same if not more.

I report back when i get a reply from them.
Hopefully will have her back on the road by the end of the week! :-)

Ben

[benlawlor85]

Hi again.

I think i will order the coil tomorrow, They dont have the bracket in stock and its about £18 so i will fabricate one. maybe from fibreglass.

The leads they supply are graphite core and are 4ft long @ £13 each seems a waste as dont need them that long plus i need copper core right?

NGK leads are £6.12/m and caps are £3.06 so loads cheaper. but obviously the caps are not bonded to the wires like the Dyna ones.

Last question.
I usually use OEM bosch sparks but thinking of using NGKs
what is the correct model? BP7ES is listed  up to 84 but mine is a 87 mono.
any ideas? or just stick with bosch.

Cheers
Ben

[Bob_Roller]

Not familiar with the monoshock bikes, Bosch I think stopped making non-resistor plugs for our bikes a few years ago .

The NGK plugs you noted, is a pretty common plug for our bikes .

Graphite core ignition leads, could be resistor type leads, copper is probably the better route .

To make is simple, our bikes need non-resistor leads, non-resistor plugs and 5k ohm sparkplug caps for bikes with electronic ignition .

A few members here have opted for 0 ohm sparkplug caps and then use a resistor type sparkplug .

[tvrla]

I wouldn't trust fiberglass to support the coil. It's not difficult to bend and cut a piece of flat plate to size - much stronger and less likely to crack.

Definitely don't use the graphite leads - copper is the only way to go. And the NGK caps, even though they're not bonded, don't have a problem sealing out the water.

[Barry]

I wouldn't use graphite leads either. They don't last and you won't be sure how much resistance you are adding.

You should check with the NGK web site to be sure but I suspect the mono bikes will use the warmer Bosch W7DC plug so the equivalent NGK would be a BP6ES.

[benlawlor85]

yeah metal probs easier.... i just like making stuff from fiberglass!

Think The NGK leads should be a winner and the dynatek coil..

[tvrla]

I hear ya - I used to make fiberglass parts for airheads back twenty years ago. Lots of fun - it's like magic everytime I'd pop a new part out of the mold. Nothing.... now there's SOMETHING!

[Sergeant_Joe]

Hi guys, I had the same thing with my stock coil (83 LS) out of sheer desperation I riged up two GT-40 coils that are ment for cars, so now my cylinders have a coil each and the beast thing is if I have one fail I can just take it out of the circuit and run only one to get me home!, yes that involves splicing the spark plug leads together I know but hey if it works it's all good  . if you guys want I can post photos of my set up?.

[benlawlor85]

would be interesting to see the setup joe!

[Sergeant_Joe]

Twin Coils on my R65 LS.







This is much cheaper and puts out a really good spark.  I have never had starting problems since I put these in.  They have been in for about three years now.  

[benlawlor85]

Thanks for the pics looks interesting.
My problems seem to just get worse!
Today i was planning to get her started and all put back together so i can use her for work tomorrow.
And she just wouldn't fire! so i checked the carbs... all fine
then checked Coil (still the old one at the moment but it would always fire before) seemed fine so i pulled HTs out and the end of the HT lead snapped off being left in the coil.
I also checked the timing sensor (bean can) and there was more of that black washer than was mulllered around the engaging prong. also the prong moves quite a bit in and out and side to side.... im assuming the washer was some kind of thurst washer. could this also be teh reason she wasn't starting...
Once again i dont know what to do. I was going to order the Coil tomorrow. but  could the timing sensor also be ruined? They are very pricey. cheapest and best way seems to be to get a new  fully electronic version but then are about £220

Also any other reason she woulnt start?

The work i did was as follows, remove front cover and timing cover, roto etc, replace gaskets.
Then solder on new alternator brushes and srpings  and refit teh whole lot, thats when i miss aligned the timing sensor, (see other post).

Surely it has to be coil/leads or sensor.
as it was starting before..

Cheers
Ben

[Barry]

also the prong moves quite a bit in and out and side to side.... im assuming the washer was some kind of thurst washer. could this also be teh reason she wasn't starting...

Some side to side movement on the pin is normal to allow for alignment. The shaft itself should not move side to side nor should it move in and out. It would have to move in quite a long way to lose drive from the camshaft and be the cause of a failure to start. Easy enough to check - turn the engine over with the bean can end plate off and watch for rotation.  Either way the can is going to need a rebuild to replace this plastic washer if that's what it was.

[montmil]

... also the prong moves quite a bit in and out and side to side.... im assuming the washer was some kind of thurst washer. could this also be teh reason she wasn't starting...

The component with two dogs on the engine-end of the bean can is supposed to 'wobble' just a bit. The design allows for any mechanical inequities in the cam-to-ITU engagement.

You may be correct regarding a thrust washer. There is very little designed-in fore and aft movement of the ITU's shaft. Metal shim washers usually have a fiber washer between them.

Taking down the Ignition Trigger Unit (ITU) is doable but be very aware of the order in which components come away. Use the web sites as aids. Other than the Hall sensor, ITU parts are now made of unobtainium.

My concern is the debris you state seeing on and around the ITU's engagement dogs. My wonderment is if there's not something failing inside the timing case. ?

Take care of the coil and plug leads first. Hall sensors rarely fail.

Monte