Installing new Clutch Cable

[pcarrick]

Good morning. I had a nice cold ride t'other evening and got home just before the clutch cable gave up the last three strands.. I have found a good source for r65 parts (Capital Cycle in Virginia) online. I've ordered a clutch cable and a service kit (oil,filters,etc.,etc.). Just waiting for them to arrive via UPS. Question: can anyone advise me on how to search the forum Q&A  for advice on install/adjustment of a new cable? I'm sure this has been posted numerous times so rather than re-hash it I figure I should do some reading.....short of that ,is there much to this procedure?

[Bob_Roller]

What part number clutch cable did you order ?

There are two, one for the low bar LS version and the standard R65, they are two different lengths .

It's a pretty quick procedure, you adjust the bolt at the transmission, to get 201 mm from the clutch arm, to some reference on the transmission case, (can't quite remember what it is right now!!!!!), then adjust the knurled nut at the handlebar to get 2-3 mm free play in the clutch lever at the handlebar .

Some instructions get pretty complicated for this, but when you are done, you want free play between the adjuster bolt at the transmission and the push rod that it touches and a bit of free play at the lever at the handlebar .

No different than adjusting a clutch on an automobile (well, at least before they went to hydraulics !!!!!) .

[montmil]

There's an R65 Owners Manual -in .pdf format- in the FAQs section of this forum. Check it out.  And Bob is correct. Clutch cable adjustment begins at the transmission, not at the clutch lever.

Monte

[Barry]

Clutch adjustment is not ultra critical but whatever method you use you are aiming for  2 - 3 mm free play at the handle bar lever and with the handle bar lever at half travel the clutch operating arm should be parallel with gear box endplate. This is done to achieve maximum mechanical advantage and it's what the complicated procedure is aiming to achieve. It's also how clutch adjustment is described in the 1980 owners manual.

The 81 on manual describes the 7.91" or  201mm method which gives the same result and is probably easier to do even if it sounds odd and counterintuitive when you first read it. Doing exactly what it says will get the right result.

[tvrla]

Good advice they've given you. It's really a simple thing adjusting the clutch. And make sure to route the cable with the least bends, and no sharp ones - just wide sweeping arcs.

Also, too bad you didn't consult us first, you've got a very good source for cables nearby - Flanders Co. in LA.

[montmil]

A short note regarding the specified measurement between the clutch cable anchor (on the trans case) and the cable's end at the transmission lever...

It's all but impossible to get a tape measure or yardstick to confirm the correct length so use the manual's specs to snip a coat hanger wire to the proper length. Now you have a simple gauge to confirm the spec'd length.

Monte

[Matt Chapter]

I'll add to monty's advice and say that you'll want to use a prybar to pull the transmission lever as close to the transmission as possible when you fit the cable.

Also, there's a round dingus that goes in the handle bar lever that the cable end slips into.  you need that, otherwise the cable end will wear the lever and pull through! (in rush hour traffic! ask me how I know!)  if your cable hasn't actually broken yet it's still there, but as soon as the cable breaks it will fall on the ground.. whether you're moving or not.

[pcarrick]

Well, I did get the clutch cable installed and it went very well. Great advice here on what to be checking for . I did get the shorter cable as my handle bars are not stock,but lower, so I got lucky and it was long enough. Good thing the "barrel" had not fallen out at the clutch lever on the handle bar as I would have stuck! Other end came with the barrel as part of the new cable. it wasn't necessary to lever the clutch bar toward the gearbox to make the cable fit in to the lever. I just grabbed and squeezed toward the gearbox while slipping the cable-end into the sadddle on the end of the lever aft of the transmission. Once I backed out the adjusting screw on the handle bar to get the 2-3 mm specified in the owner's manual the clutch worked perfectly.
Seems easy in hindsight,just have to dive in and see how it goes. The cable was perfectly sized and practically fell into position.

[Dave 2]

Thanks for all the info on the clutch cable, someday (soon?) I will be referring to it. As I recall you use just one zip tie on the right side frame member below the steering head. The photo is a little fussy but it is just below the crash bar. D2

[Julio A.]

Since we are in the topic of clutch cables...

Anybody knows an estimated length of the clutch cable for the Standard low bars?

I switched from the high bars to low bars and my clutch controls are kinda vague. I couldn't adjust it properly since it became too long.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Lowlander,

Don't forget to lubricate both ends of the cable so the barrels can rotate in their associated workspace.  Use standard automotive grease, no moly or anything.  Check this lubrication every year or more.


_{(It's a clickable pic)}

Julio,

I think the longer cable can be used with the low bars with no negative consequences, other than appearance, as long as you have the required no-sharp-bends, etc.  Most bikes like this just have extra clutch cable sticking out in front down by the exhaust header area, I think.
What would affect clutch feel - cable-wise - would be differences in cable-to-sheath lengths.  I think that ratio will be the same regardless of OEM clutch cable length.