'80 R65 won't turn over, doesn't indicate neutral

[BatCycle]

HOWEVER, it is not running. It has some charge on the battery but I'm not sure if it's enough but the bike won't even turn over. The previous owner said that he had an instance where the bike wouldn't indicate neutral and wouldn't start or even turn over(I believe even with the clutch in) but it would shift into neutral (he could roll it back and forth). Then about a week later he came back to it and decided to try and start it just for kicks. He put it in neutral and the light came on and it started up. He rode it for a while and parked it last summer. It won't start now and he sold it to me. It won't indicate neutral for me either and it won't even turn over. SO I'm thinking it may be a bad neutral switch but I'm not sure yet and I'd like to avoid having to replace the switch if I can but we'll see. Also the highbeam light doesn't come on when the highbeams are on. ALSO the break light sticks on when the front break is engaged. suggestions are more than welcome as this is my first restoration. Thanks!

[Sergeant_Joe]

Buy a new battery and fit it in, always start with the simple stuff first.
These bikes are power hogs and are verry picky if it drops bellow 12 volts, 13.5- 14 volt is what you need.
Also check your fuses (in the little black box under the rear of the petrol tank) .
now go down under the bike and give the two wires that go too the Neutral plug a wiggle (a clean and light file wont hurt here).
When you turn the key do you get the red lights? if so try bumping the starter round with the clutch and a bit of a roll (may be stuck).
Let me know how it goes for ya.

[BatCycle]

Buy a new battery and fit it in, always start with the simple stuff first.
These bikes are power hogs and are verry picky if it drops bellow 12 volts, 13.5- 14 volt is what you need.
Also check your fuses (in the little black box under the rear of the petrol tank) .
now go down under the bike and give the two wires that go too the Neutral plug a wiggle (a clean and light file wont hurt here).
When you turn the key do you get the red lights? if so try bumping the starter round with the clutch and a bit of a roll (may be stuck).
Let me know how it goes for ya.

Thank you very much.  How can I find/identify the neutral switch wires?

[Dave 2]

The neutral switch is underneath the transmission. You may want to get yourself a Haynes or Clymer manual to help with the work you are planning. Another big help is to go on line to find dealers who sell  parts on-line. they should have Micro-fiche files for your viewing pleasure, parts location, and part numbers [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif] D2

[tvrla]

The neutral switch is under the transmission fairly close to the shifter on the left side. There are two wires running to it, but they can be difficult to remove or install without hemostats. Not much room for fingers in there, and they can be difficult to hang onto and apply enough force to disconnect. It can also be rather oily and slippery under there.

Make sure the red kill switch (on the right control) is in the middle position (on). Sometimes they get flakey and don't make good contact and cause this sort of problem.

[Bob_Roller]

Have you tried starting the engine with the clutch lever pulled in ?

If the neutral light doesn't work, the starter will not operate, the starter relay uses a ground through the neutral switch to complete the electrical ciruit so the starter relay works .

This prevents you from starting the engine while the transmission is in anything other than neutral .

[montmil]

BatCycle,

The neutral switch screws into the bottom of the transmission. Two wires plug on using male/female spades. It's challenging to reach the unit due to constricted space. A bad neutral switch will not prevent engine start.

BTW, prior to attempting to make steam from your new R65, have you checked and/or changed engine oil? There's an oil filter, too, but without new components, leave it be for now. Pull the plugs and check their condition but do not attempt to crank the engine with plugs out unless they are firmly grounded to the engine.

What ignition coil/s do you have on the bike? Some OEM coils were prone to cracking and ignition failures.

Drain the fuel tank and add fresh gas. When fuel gets low, the right side of the R65 fuel tank does not cross-feed to the petcock side. As such, it makes a lovely reservoir for condensation and his ugly cousin, rust.

Drop the float bowls and pour out the fuel and any accumulated water. Do a simple fuel flow check to confirm petrol reaching the carbs.

The OEM fuses are problematic. 400 grit will help clean the ends of the Euro-style fuses. Then you'll need to work on the spring clips that hold the fuses. Your lighting issues may be cured with some fuse box love. Buy a tube of dielectric grease and use it on wire terminals. Your low beam may be simply burned out.

Use your (or buy one) multimeter for electrical maintenance. While you're at Radio Shack, buy a small tube oh heat transfer paste so you can renew the junction of the Ignition Control Unit (ICU) and its companion heat sink.

Buy a manual ASAP. There is an R65 owners manual in .pdf format in the R65 Technical FAQs section of the forum. Suggest you give it a read as it has much basic information you're going to need.

Buy a new battery. Really. Soon. Use the dielectric grease on its terminals. [smiley=thumbup.gif] Stay with us. We'll eventually get you running.

Monte

[tvrla]

I cringe every time I hear someone mention sanding electrical contacts. Normally they're plated, and sanding removes some, or all, of that plating. Next time it's going to really RUST! If it's already rusted, then there probably isn't a better solution, but otherwise, clean the contacts with something less abrasive - brass wire brush, electrical contact cleaner, carb cleaner, vinegar, brass cleaner...

[Sergeant_Joe]

Oh yes sorry, coat all cleaned up contacts with vasiline this stops said corosive effect. when I say a light file I ment a light file you don't have to rub the thing raw, just enough to remove the dirt and grit.

[nhmaf]

These neutral switches also can have a tendency to get sticky if the bike has been left sitting for quite a while.  So, it might be a bad wire contact, a bad switch, and/or simply sticking from lack of use as far as the neutral light goes.   As for trying to diagnose the starting issue, first put in a new, fully charged battery.

[BatCycle]

 Hey thanks, I do have the double red lights. I will give the starter a good tap next chance I get. I have the battery on a battery tender and I was hoping that would make the difference. Maybe not? I wanted to test the voltage from the battery but I can't get to it with these bags on there (the seat won't lift all the way). Unfortunately I'm going to be at school for a while and the bike is parked elsewhere. ALSO the bike won't turn over even with the clutch in. Could it still be the neutral switch? The high beam indicator light also doesn't work so could it be that those two lights are just broken?? (they are next to each other)

[Sergeant_Joe]

HHMMMM, take the tank off and pull the starter relay, it is the small grey one (or could be yellow if newer type) check the pins are clean and free from crud.
Now place it back in, put your fingertip on top of it and try and start the bike, you should be able to feel a clunk through it, if not you may have a dead relay.
one more time saving trick is to use a screw driver and jump it across the two starter motor termanals (do this with the rear wheel it the air) you have just bypassed the entire circuit before the starter motor, if the starter cranks over and spins the engine you know it's not the starter motor if it just goes clunk! you may not have enough power from battery or your starter has a fault. it is also good to check and tighten the live and earth cables on the starter motor as well at this point.

[montmil]

... I wanted to test the voltage from the battery but I can't get to it with these bags on there (the seat won't lift all the way).

The seat issue is going to create some service problems for you. If the seat cannot be fully opened, you'll probably not be able to remove the fuel tank and expose the wiring harness and several of the ignition components you need to check. Rectify this situation and life will be so much easier -as far as going from a non-runner to a road burner.

Monte

[benlawlor85]

Can you not just take the Pans off? mine is the same. Pans are only on there if i need to carry stuff. Also Re fuses. best thing i did was replace the old fuse panel with a new blade type one i used a 4-way so i have one going to my power aux on the dash and a spare if i ever need it.
Good luck with it all.