Hi, two questions have I, my rear drive sometimes

[slickster]

My rear drive sometimes makes a klunke, sound when the clutch is released when taking off from a stop light?  
Also do I have to solder new brushes in my starter when they go bad? My bike is a r65 84.

[Lucky_Lou]

Pull the rear wheel and check the "Crown Wheel" wouldnt hurt to clean and lube it the splines need cleaning periodically.
Rock the bike in gear with the engine stopped to pin down the source of the noise in case its not that.
Lou

[Bob_Roller]

If you don't see/find any issues with the final drive or surrounding area, there is what's called a 'cush drive' drive shaft, there is a spring loaded assembly that takes up the 'shock of shifting' etc, to the drive train .

It's not a real common problem, but it happens on occasion to start  a popping noise /vibration when it starts slipping .

It's located just forward of the final drive inside the swingarm housing .

Yes you do need to solder new brushes .

You do need to remove the brush holder from the stator housing to do this, take pictures or make notes on the fiber washer location that insulates the fasteners that hold the brush holder to the housing .

If you get it wrong, the alternator will not work .

[montmil]

Yes you do need to solder new brushes.

But only if you are into the whole S&M thing. [smiley=naughty.gif]

Getting enough heat into the thick steel attach points for the braided copper leads can be a real PITA. I've done it but next time will utilize this Airhead Beemer Club tip:

Crimp and solder a small ring terminal onto the end of each new brush lead. Match the ring terminal size to the hole in the attach points. Stop by the model railroad shop and pick up a pair of really tiny nuts, machine screws and washers. Assemble all and rejoice in not burning up anything expensive on the stator ring.

Monte

[Adrian]

Hey Slickster we have the same model and year R65. I have the same clunk on take up in the drive. As I'm restoring the paintwork and other things on mine I had the drive shaft removed from the swingarm and found that the 2 piece cush drive was flattened off and ridged on the contact points of both items. I ordered a new set (amongst a whole bunch of other stuff) and a reconditioned shaft as well. I was advised to this by a BMW dealership a few years ago and now is the time. Now that I have the back end stripped down I could check the spline contact betwen the bevel housing and the wheel disconnected from the rest of the drive. There appears to be no slack at all at this point. I hope this helps. I bought everything I need from a Uk shop - www.Motorworks.co.uk - who are specialists for airhead parts (and others models and much cheaper than using dealerships here in Oz. Good luck.....