correct throttle cable routing

[Barry]

One consideration is I am a shorty (5'7") so maybe the high bars are better, though I guess I will not know unless I try.

The euro bars will certainly have you leaning forward. I'm 5' 10" and they had me leaning a little more than I liked which is why I suggested  the slightly higher bars.

This is another story and I don't recommend anyone attempt it without the right kit.  I bent mine to move them up 1" and back 1"  Doesn't sound much but made a big difference to me.

[RSMike]

Chalk it up Rob, I have had the front coil failure, patched up the bracket, and made a new earth connection in exactly the same point(thanks to following what another poster on this site did, who probably had it handed down from you,

[RSMike]

One consideration is I am a shorty (5'7") so maybe the high bars are better, though I guess I will not know unless I try.

The euro bars will certainly have you leaning forward. I'm 5' 10" and they had me leaning a little more than I liked which is why I suggested  the slightly higher bars.

OK, based on this and Rob's earlier input, it looks like the Motobins 8cm rise bars may be the safest  bet.
The one slight concern I have still is the span, the current span on my high bars seems to be about 720mm, If I shorten that to 640mm with the motobins bars will I run into trouble with the brake line?

So one other option are these bars at BMW Bayer
http://www.bmwbayer.de/Handlebars-low-in-chrome-R2V-R90S-models1.html
They have a wide span ( 750mm) but are low rise ( 55mm)

Still leaning towards the Motobins bars as the extra rise should allow some extra pullback :-/

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

will I run into trouble with the brake line?

It will certainly be easier than going the other direction!

You may need to eliminate the metal bracket that holds the brake line to the handlebar clamps, though.



I did, when I put in my 1/2" home-made risers.  I had a machine shop make them from a pair of top clamps I got from a generous member of our forum, here.  They were from a K75 (same part # as our bikes).  I won't embarrass myself by revealing what the machine shop charged me...  

Why the risers, you ask?  To help with clearance issues with my Heinrich leg shields.
Wouldn't be a problem with high bars.


But the bottom line is, you could probably have a custom line made up locally for less than what the handlebars will cost.  Steel-braided, even!

And there is no reason you need to stay with the tapered brake line fittings.  Apparently banjo-type will work also.  I didn't realize  the post '80 bikes had the distribution casting (where the pre '81 bikes have the hydraulic brake light switch).   Then you could ditch that upper metal 'U'-shaped line and have a lot more flexibility.

[RSMike]

The one slight concern I have still is the span, the current span on my high bars seems to be about 720mm, If I shorten that to 640mm with the motobins bars will I run into trouble with the brake line?

OK, so I was right to be concerned about this, I got the Motobins bars with the 8cm rise, but "no way Jose" with the current brake line, in the picture the right side controls are not even in far enough, My current brake line looks to be about 225mm, I think I need something more like 145mm, the real issue is the width of the new bars rather than the rise.



So back to the high bars for now, one problem I discovered in the process is that the left side control assembly is cracked, I assume because someone over tightened:



it seemed to go back on OK, and I was careful not to over tighten, but I better start looking out for a replacement, new ones are rather expensive

One of the reasons I was going for low bars is I decided to try the small Emgo fairing and I had surmised low bars would be best, however I decided to go ahead and try it anyway with the high bars, It fits OK, and now I am wondering if in fact the low bars might not fit so well, with the narrow width, the brake reservoir might make contact.

I'll post separately on the fairing fitting on my screen thread

[Bob_Roller]

Did you by chance have a small triangular shaped in cross section piece of metal about 1 cm long when you removed the control housing?

It keeps you from cracking the cast metal housing when you tighten up the retaining screws .

Commonly referred to as a wedge, not available from BMW anymore .

[Barry]

The other thing that can crack the control assemblies is trying to force them onto 7/8" bars which are slightly over size at 22.23 mm.  Your new bars will be 22mm but what size were the old ones.

[RSMike]

Did you by chance have a small triangular shaped in cross section piece of metal about 1 cm long when you removed the control housing?

 , That would be this guy:


It fell out on the floor and I scratched my head as to what the hell it was for but eventually figured it out, though I was still wondering if it was meant to be there or something someone had added to work around any looseness caused by the crack, so good to know it is meant to be there.

I didn't notice or think to look of there was one on the right side assembly?

Your new bars will be 22mm but what size were the old ones.

Yes just measured the new bars and they are 22 exactly, funnily enough the old ones are reassuring up at 21.5,  but 30 year old bike, who knows what other bars may have been on it