correct throttle cable routing

[RSMike]

OK, another embarrassment that I have left this so long to sort, the PO routed my throttle cables outside the frame.

They are just partially hidden under the tank





Obviously not a good arrangement, my only lazy excuse is they seem to work ok like this, , but I know they need to be routed correctly for a number of reasons.

So as the forecast is predicting yet another rainy weekend, I think I will tackle the job, so my question is what is the correct original routing, pictures would be nice if anyone happens to have them, but descriptive english is also very acceptable,  

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I can't say that mine are in the original route, but I think they are.
If it matters, I have the Euro bars.

Just click on this picture and it will take you to a small gallery with a couple of other pictures.  
Beneath the pictures you can adjust the size of the image for detail.

[montmil]

Keep in mind, Mike, that smooth routing is more important than exactly matching what you may find from others.

You might discover your cables may be longer or shorter or perhaps a PO routed the left throttle cable to the right carb or vice versa... the two lower cables from the junction tube are different lengths- at least mine are.

Shoot for easy movement of the inner cable plus a straight-in shot to the carb's cable adjuster. I recommend not using cable ties/zip ties to tightly hold throttle cables to the frame. A loose loop for routing "guidance" is fine- remember, the handlebars can "adjust the cable length" every time you steer. That throttle input might just shoot you across the pub's parking lot!

Yeah, I can see why you'd want to tidy up those droopy cables.

Rainy weekend? Email me about 2-3 inches of drizzle. My weeds are thirsty.

Monte

[Barry]

I have to say your cables don't look right as they come out of the twist grip. My throttle cables go from the twistgrip to the far side of the triple clamp then down under the headstock  but above the first cross tube then off under the tank either side.

At the carb end I use a length of heat shrink sleeve to stiffen the cable where it enters the adjuster which helps to keep the cables vertical.

[RSMike]

Thanks for the pictures Rob, very helpful, I started the job, hit a problem,  and reading Monte's words now they prove prophetic.

I think there is a reason the PO routed the cables the way he did and its because they are too short to follow the correct route.

I discovered Anton Largiader has (another) very useful page on BMW cables:

http://www.largiader.com/articles/cables/

The cables I have are the ones ending 236 612, i.e 1007mm overall length, this part no. is listed as being for /5 to /7 with low bars, though it has the same spec as the 237 691 listed for pre 81 R65 with low bars.

Anyway when I tried routing the cables like Rob's (and some other routing's) the cables were too short at the carbs.

I never really confirmed it as I have nothing to compare with, but looking at pics of other bikes on here ( e.g. boycies)I think my bike has high bars, I remember some of you guys commented on the bars first time I posted a picture saying they looked high.

Here is a clearer shot of them:


So looks like for now I will have to revert to the "short" routing and source correct cables, i.e. 237 692 or 236 613

[montmil]

Roger those high bars, Mike. US specification but God knows why. R65s need Euro spec low handlebars. IMHO... which, like the US stock market, ain't always worth a plugged nickel.

Monte

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

You might discover your cables may be longer or shorter or perhaps a PO routed the left throttle cable to the right carb or vice versa... the two lower cables from the junction tube are different lengths- at least mine are.

RSMike has no junction tube.  If you look at his picture again, you will see it has two cables coming from the throttle control.  And it is a 1980.

[RSMike]

You might discover your cables may be longer or shorter or perhaps a PO routed the left throttle cable to the right carb or vice versa... the two lower cables from the junction tube are different lengths- at least mine are.

RSMike has no junction tube.  If you look at his picture again, you will see it has two cables coming from the throttle control.  And it is a 1980.

OK, that explains it, I was scratching my head as to what a junction tube is. When I had both cables off the carbs they both looked to be identical lengths to the point that I got them mixed up and could not tell one from the other, just guessed on the refitting, gave the bike a test run and seems ok.

Roger those high bars, Mike. US specification but God knows why. R65s need Euro spec low handlebars. IMHO... which, like the US stock market, ain't always worth a plugged nickel.

Monte

OK, so now you have me thinking do I get new bars or new throttle cables,  , I might just mull over that for a while before I do anything

Monte, it is comforting though, to see that the US economy has some similar problems to the Irish one,  , the correction is rather painful here but has to be done.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

The low bars definitely give you a more sporting stance.   I love them!
But you need long-stem mirrors, or bar-end mirrors.  The long-stem in black are near-impossible to find anymore.  Chrome is still easily sourced, I believe - if you can stand it.
(Black is faster! )

[RSMike]

So for low bars, which on this page would you go for  :-/:

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=20&Ct=OA&SbCt=BA_15_20_OA_20

I am thinking the second ones, 55mm = 2.16 inch rise?

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

So for low bars, which on this page would you go for  :-/:

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=20&Ct=OA&SbCt=BA_15_20_OA_20

I am thinking the second ones, 55mm = 2.16 inch rise?

The price is certainty attractive.

I would be concerned about clearances, though, most notably between the inside-bottom of the brake master cylinder casting and the right fork leg-top; and the turn-signal switch and fuel tank at full-lock.

Too bad the 75mm have such an outrageous price.

Motobins has a 80mm rise handlebar for only £29.75 +VAT  (Part No. 61012)

You might check out James Sherlocks - Tel: 01769 574350  - some of the U.K. contingent have good things to say about them.  

[RSMike]

ok, thanks Rob, hadn't considered that, must do some measurements, but yes the Motobins 8cm do look good.

I am using James Sherlock for nearly all my parts now now, however on bars, he seems sadly lacking, just offering standard rise original bars at UK£117

[Barry]

I have the original euro bars with a 55mm rise and clearance is tight but the only time I have a problem is when removing the fork top plug for filling with fork oil. I just need to loosen the perch clamp and rotate the lever assembly up a bit.  Should be no other problems if the pattern ones are a faithful copy.

If it was me changing the bars I would go for something an inch or so higher than the euro bars. I would think there is probably enough slack in the throttle cables to accommodate an 80mm rise provided they are no wider than stock.

[RSMike]

Thanks Barry, that is good to know, I have not quite decided whether to change yet or not, One consideration is I am a shorty (5'7") so maybe the high bars are better, though I guess I will not know unless I try.
Another consideration is cables, looking at some previous threads on the subject today, and there was an opinion that the brake line from the lever might need to be changed for a shorter version. (arrowed)

I'm thinking its position is mostly just dropping so the difference in length is rather small, hoping I might get away with not changing it?
At least going on my throttle cables whichever PO went to high bars didn't change cables, from the angles of electric cables, it looks like these were not changed either.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

There is no difference in the cables for the electrical switches on the handlebars.
On the low bars, they just loop them around to take up the slack.

Low bars:


click for larger image

High bars:




The top picture is of my bike.  I had to make a new main ground after my front coil mount broke off at the welds to the frame.  The coil clamps carried the main ground connection.  
ALL '78-'80 R65/R45's will have this failure at some point in their lives.

'81 and later R65's had a different coil arrangement, so the ground point was moved.