Frame Paint etc.

[benlawlor85]

Hi all,

You may remember many months ago i was deciding wether to get my old R65 mono back on the road. Well last weekend i managed to get her started (only needed a couple of throttle cables) and is now in my shed - was previously at my parents house.

After cleaning the bike up i can see it needs some work- mainly the frame... its pretty rusty now including the swing arm. The engine casing is also not in the best condition.

I am in a bit of a dilemma do i do a total rebuild? or just get her through an MOT and as a working bike?

Either way the frame needs attention, what is best? Powder-coat? POR15? Hammerite?
I was considering just tidying it up and hammerite-ing the frame is this a bad idea?

Also on the engine casing the paint has mostly come off and the bare aluminum areas are looking tired. How is it best to polish/restore the bare areas? and the best paint for the black areas?

I did use some wet-n-dry on the front casing and them autosol which made a difference but i would like a almost mirror finish if i am going to do a total resto.

Thanks in Advance!

Ben

a few pics of the bike can be found at the link below

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=47322&id=100000429314611&l=a2cc916f0d

[Julio A.]

I had parts of my engine case polished and buffed to a mirror finish last December, Took me at least three days worth of time, some 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper, metal polish, aluminum brightener, water, and lots of patience. Actually, polishing it up to a good shine is easy; maintaining the shine and polish is really the tough part.

I'd stop that rust before it starts doing damage to the frame, engine and bolts.

[benlawlor85]

Hi,
Thanks for that thats about what i thought about doing for the engine casing.

as for the rust im planning on starting removing the rust tonight and then will probs use a zinc based primer and then hammerite!

Also plan to change the old fuse board for a blade type.
Then get the spare tank sprayed and off to the MOT.... well almost!

[montmil]

"Also plan to change the old fuse board for a blade type."

Here's what I did with both my '81 and '83 R65s. Visit your friendly local auto parts store, aka: FLAPS.





Listen to Julio!  That shiny aluminum looks really purty at first but you will begin to curse it as you spend way too many hours polishing rather than riding. That lovely bare aluminum will immediately begin to corrode even as you sleep.

I'd vote for a light frame resto done in-situ, then get that MOT taken care of. A modest amount of patina on a vintage motorcycle carries a definite cachet among knowledgeable Airhead enthusiasts.

Monte

[benlawlor85]

Hi, i take whta you mean about polishing the engine... i might just see how it goes! as for teh fuses, i cant decide whether to use your method or get a fuse board that has a couple of spare ways. That way i could put my aux socket through  it aswell. but wont be waterproof...
uhmmm decisions.
Anyway i will get on the case this evening! :-)

oh and as for light frame work... thats what i have been thinking! but what paint to use? is POR15 really THAT good?

Ben

[montmil]

...oh and as for light frame work... thats what i have been thinking! but what paint to use? is POR15 really THAT good?
Ben

I've had excellent durability and color match using our Ace Hardware-branded semi-gloss black enamel over a light sanding plus a shot of primer.

Mask off thoroughly to avoid overspray. Yesterday's newspaper is not recommended for masking paper as paint solvents can bleed through. Quality masking paper -rolls of various widths- is available at auto body supply stores. Makes a good workbench cover when disassembling bits, too. Toss the oil stuff when finished. That way, your wife/girlfriend/mother doesn't go ballistic when the dining room table becomes an overhaul center.

Monte

[benlawlor85]

OK. So been out in the shed for a good few hours tonight, seat cowl removed, battery out all electrics removed away from frame, pan frames off. LH exhaust off,  the hanger is very badly corroded! the RH exhaust is still on as bolts are corroded badly! and don't wanna snap the head off.
Headlight off, bars off. gave most of it a light rub down with some 80 grit.

LH exhaust silencer has the thread of an old bolt stuck in it! i remember this from years ago but still cant remove it- any ideas?

Still not sure if a total rebuild would be better.

So tomorrow il will either strip it down some more for a total rebuild or start painting up the frame. Which is best paint sub-frame while on bike or take it off?

oh also thinking about getting rid of the console area and putting the ignition key under the tank fro a cleaner look.

Cheers
Ben

more pics on

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=47322&id=100000429314611&l=a2cc916f0d

[nhmaf]

I also went the individual automotive blade fuse route like Monte did on my R65 - I don't run alot of accessories, and a couple years ago I got fed up with the intermittent failures of the original fuses and fuse board.   Those auto-parts store sealed fuse holders are very durable, well sealed, and above all CHEAP !

Mike

[benlawlor85]

Just been out to get some stuff. A4 stainless steel nuts and bolts for everything i took off last night. after looking at various paints i couldn't decide, hammerite? or one of the many other metal paints? some claim to be ultra durable! Then while i was choosing the S/S bolts i thought hmm these are fro marine use.... They also sell marine paint here! So i had a chat t the guy behind the desk and now have International Primocon (one part primer for under water use!) and Toplac (Premium quality high gloss durable yatch enamel) I don't think there  will be anything as durable or corrosion resistant as this...
 Owatrol oil is another product i bought as something to treat the very rusty areas!

So project paint frame starts now!.

will put more pics up soon as i take them!

[montmil]

Ben,

Suggest the use of a light smear of an anti-sieze compound on the threads as you go back with the stainless fasteners. This little tidbit from many of the stainless hardware kit sellers.

BTW, the BMW frame does not utilize an OEM high gloss black paint finish. More of a satin gloss.

Monte

[benlawlor85]

hi monte,
not sure how high the gloss will be on the yatch enamel. if its to high they do a matting additive. But i have decided to use it purely for its protection properties, i live by the sea and when commuting drive over roads that are covered in salt laden sand. Which just eats anything.
If its a nice finish i may even consider painting the tank using the same product.

Copper Grease is always used liberally on assembly. Am going to take the exhausts down to a local work shop to see if they can free the bolts otherwise.... not sure what i can do!!!

Anyway off to work now!
and then back in the shed this evening for coat one of the primer!

[bruce_launceston]

This little fuse box takes 4 blade type fuses and your original 2 wiring circuits will plug straight in.
I have now used the spare fuses for power circuits to a separate high and low beam relays.
It has a clear cover with a 'O' ring type seal to make it splashproof. I think it's a Narva product and is also available with more fuse positions.

[VaSteve]

It's a slippery slope....see below from this past Sunday.  This is the primer coat.

I had a lot of surface rust.  I sanded it off and used some POR15.   I wasn't happy with it on the sanded surfaces.  It says it doesn't like to stick where it's smooth and it really didn't.

I found myself having to sand it down a bit before priming.  I think the POR15 was good on some of the nooks and crannies I couldn't sand.   I almost had this whole thing sandblasted, but then I realized...why?    The swing arm I did sandblast at home.  It took a while, but it was cold out and I had some fun with it.

I will paint these parts with Wurth Satin Black.  The idea is so I could touch it up if it gets dinged and what not.  






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[benlawlor85]

HI all.
bruce thats the type of fuse board i have been looking at! :-)

as for the paint work.... im about to put coat three of Primacon on later. its going on pretty well. is quite odd paint tho. goes tacky almost immediately! I am still slightly worried how high the gloss will be. But im after the best possible protection from corrosion.

Still need to get the three bolts out of the exhaust that are stuck! :-(

[benlawlor85]

Hello again!

more pics at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=47322&id=100000429314611&l=a2cc916f0d

i decided to take the rest of the loom off the front of the frame as there was no way i could paint it otherwise! and disconnected gauges. I have having some access problems next to the swing-arm. and am seriously considering taking it off. any suggestions?

anyway off to work! -half day today! :-)

Ben