Enduraspark issues

[scotty_b]

First off I should say that due to an electrical issue my bike sat for a while. While tracing out my gremlin I found out the rectifier was fried. Long story short I figured this was a good time to upgrade the whole system with the Enduaspark and Enduralast systems. The systems were both very well made and came with pretty good instructions.

NOW my problem arises. Unless I completely missed something the instructions tell you to set the engine at TDC, turn the trigger wheel until the l.e.d. just goes off and set the wheel in that position. My bike WILL NOT RUN set this way, it won;t even start, just a hit and dies. I have to severly advance the trigger and run my chokes halfway closed to get it to run 3/4. Poor bottom end, great midrange, and no top end. It will idle all day long in any number of positions but driveablity is non-existent.

NEXT piece of info. I took the carbs ( fresh rebuild last year ) apart to clean them since they had been sitting with ethanol gas in them. I neglected to count where I had the mixture screws set What is a good starting oint with the mixture screws so I can proceed with the ignition issue ?

So basically right now the bike is WAY advanced and runs o.k. at half choike, no choke, barely runs. I have had the carbs apart 3 times in 2 days cleaning and recleaning to assure there is not an issue there. I am certain other than the mixture adjustment the carbs are in top form. Am I not setting the ignition system up correctly

Thanks, Scott

[Barry]

What is a good starting point with the mixture screws so I can proceed with the ignition issue ?

3/4 of a turn out is a good starting point for the mixture screws but will likely be rich and expect to turn them in some to maybe 1/2 a turn out for the smoothest idle. It's best to start on the rich side and turn in to weaken don't know why but its easier to hear the change this way as the idle slows and then you can back them out again just a touch. I ignore the books that say having found the best idle to back out 1/4 turn. That's far to much. These carbs are sensitive to an adjustment as small as the width of the screwdriver slot.

Poor bottom end, great midrange, and no top end.  

Poor bottom end does sound like idle mixture setting and maybe transition ports blocked.

Great mid range sounds like needle position and jet are ok.

No top end is curious as it's hard  for this not to ok with the correct main jets unless you are running very rich for some other reason. At what revs do you loose power at the top end ?

So basically right now the bike is WAY advanced and runs o.k.

As long as you are not getting any pinging under load it's probably not  too much advanced to be causing your problems. Although we all fuss over precise ignition timing, actual power output is not grossly affected by a couple of degrees out either way.

[scotty_b]

No idea of the exact revs, I put a /2 speedo on the bike so I have no tach, but once I shift into third it pretty much feels like it starts losing power. I am pretty certain this is down to the ignition system setup. I have had the carbs apart 3 times in the last 2 days and have emptied 2 cans of 3M carb cleaner. I can all but guarantee there is nothing blocking or impeding the internal carb operation :-/

[Barry]

Although a couple of degrees out on your ignition timing wouldn't cause your power loss a weak spark could. I'm not familiar with this aftermarket system but it sounds like an expensive high end ignition that should be giving very strong sparks.

How easy would it be to go back to stock ignition, dial in the carbs and then fit the Enduraspark when it's running right.

[scotty_b]

It is a very nice system and is pretty much the same as what is currently being used on BMW's and MotoGuzzi's. As for putting the old unit back in that is a no go. When I had my initial electrical issue the rectifier and stock ignition was all fried.  

Here is a link to the systems, I am certain this is an issue with me not the units. As I said they are very well built and should be worth the money once I figure out what the H is going on

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EnDuraSpark_Electronic_Ignition_System_BMW_R_70_80_p/edl-ign.htm

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product_p/edl450-altkit.htm

[Mike V]

Scott,

Make sure the wheel is lined up with the trigger pick-up.  In other words, check the wheel position making sure it hasn't slid in or out along the hub away from the trigger mechanism.  You should see small circular inserts in the side of the wheel that need to be aligned with the pickup sensor.  Snug up the wheel just enough to give a little resistence against the allen set-screws while you're rotating it to set the static timing with the wheel.  Have you checked to make sure the dip switches are set in the correct position?  There's a single and double plug setting resulting in different advance curves.  A very smal amount of radial rotational movement equates into degrees.  Try again and report back making sure you're at TDC and the wiring is assembled correctly.

-Mike V.

[scotty_b]

Mike, I am certain it is at TDC and all the wiring and trigger wheel is correct. In my insanity I even pulled the rocker cover off to make certain the engine was at TDC when the flywheel indicated it was. The only other thing I want to double check is the dipswitches you brought up. I am certain I set them as directed but like anyone I have made mistakes :-/ My plan is to get the carbs set to a good starting point and start all over AGAIN with this ignition system.. there has to be something simple I am missing. I am pretty good at finding the complex issues but I tend to overlook the easy ones. I restore and customize cars for a living so I am used to silly things like this happening but it does't make it any less frustrating, especially when I have myslef, a Winston cup crew chief and a 30 year VW mechanic/machinit in the same complex, and none of us can get this figured out

[Mike V]

Scott,

I have a lot of confidence in that system.  An easy way to check to see if the system is firing off is to watch the led light while you're cranking it over. Or you could even remove the plugs and ground them.  I've installed two of the systems and had no problems.

Make sure you are rotating the wheel clockwise, passing the "S" on the wheel past the trigger should activate the led light.  Continue rotating until the "N" passes the trigger and the led goes off. This is where you should stop and tighten the wheel set-screws. At the point the light just goes off should be your static setting. (just wanted to review for you).

Try to resolve the other issues best you can. I'm curious to hear back from you.