minor electrical BUG

[bubby-joe]

I had a pronounced miss and I removed the coils to try to change to a single coil setup.  I found an earlier mod to an electronic module and I put the twin coils back on I moved the module ground from the rear coil mount to the front where all the frame wires ground and now the bike runs great without the miss that was there before I moved the wiring and the ground but now when I use the signal lights the engine looses spark and the engine runs rough, pull in the clutch the problem seems to be less and the Tach shows the smaller problem in the rev counter let the clutch out to pull away and the engine dies between signal flashes.  Below 1500 RPM the problem is minor above 1500 it is very noticable.  Oh no I made it LUCASized .  The signal buzzer is working, signals work, engine runs good but for the  minor glitch, it works great if I don't use the signals.  ANY IDEAS........diodes maybe.

[montmil]

May suggest you return the wires to their original location and see if the "lightning bugs" go away. If they were blinking properly and the engine was running -stumbling or not- between signal flashes, I'd think you have a wiring problem within the circuit/s. Sounds like your relo of the ignition module wire bypassed something kinda important. Oops.

You say, if I understand, you did not replace the old coils with a new unit? Do you have the Dyna unit?

Also, it's very helpful to know the year and model you're working with. Perhaps post this info in your sig line or avatar.

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

Check the front coil mount, it's prone to cracking and giving odd electrical problems due to all of the grounds on the bike going to it .

[bubby-joe]

Sorry forgot the important stuff

1980 should have points and it may well yet.   This was modified to an aftermaket module says it's a mark III thats all that's on it, there is something put in the beancan to make it work a sensor but i'm sure it's not stock.

I did not replace the old coils yet with the twin coil unit.


Wires go as follows to get spark but it took some doing to get the spark back so I may have shorted the relay diode not sure and that could cause the problem with the signals and the tach.  Signal on tach goes nuts and the engine fires and dies with the signal flasher PITA in a corner.

1 wire to ground was at rear coil mount moved to front harness ground
2 wire to beancan sensor same as before
3 wire to ignition relay power
4 to front coil 15 terminal
5 to rear coil 15 terminal

To switch to twin lead coil is it OK to use both #4 and #5 to twin coil positive and the other coil wire to the beancan sensor wire or use just 1 coil out from module to the twin coil and cap the other one.

[Barry]

To switch to twin lead coil is it OK to use both #4 and #5 to twin coil positive and the other coil wire to the beancan sensor wire or use just 1 coil out from module to the twin coil and cap the other one

There is no reason why a 12 volt dual output coil should not work in place of your twin 6v coils but the connections would be to use the wires that went to 15  on the rear coil and 1 on the front coil. (it might be that your coils were incorrectly wired. The link wire should always go from 1 to 15 in order to maintain correct spark polarity)
You might also want to think about the dual coil having a similar a impedance to the twin 6V coils unless you know for sure that the electronic ignition module can safely handle a higher current

[bubby-joe]

Check the front coil mount, it's prone to cracking and giving odd electrical problems due to all of the grounds on the bike going to it .

Rob front coil has an independant ground to the front ground terminal, the bracket broke right off a long time ago, I'll fix it when I strip to repaint late this fall.  Makes me think relay because the tach is affected by the signal lights and a stray ground through a light in the tach circuit will kill the spark to the engine.  Front frame ground was moved to the front web on the frame.  Works great without using the signals so I'll use hand signals until I lay up for the winter.  Got 2 toy runs to do first must have priorities.

Barry your diagram makes more sence than the wiring diagram I had  so I'll recheck it and maybe swap the twin coil in for now.  I eventually want to go to a twin point and twin coil setup to eliminate the waste spark so I can run on a hydrogen generator but that's later. It would be great to not pay for gas but just add water for fuel...I may have put the tach in the wrong place and a power drop with the signals might kill the spark module and make the tach erratic.