'81 R65 electric diagrams

[R65Biker]

Hi everybody, just baught my first R65 and absolutely love it. It has a few smaller electrical defects and was wondering if anybody can provide a schematic diagram of this bike? Or would you recommend I purchase the entire workshop manual for the bike?
Regards, Ernst

[montmil]

Both the Cylmer and Haynes manuals offer model-specific wiring diagrams. You didn't mention the model year of your "new" R65 but that makes a lotta difference in the wiring between bikes. Plus, you'll be doing lots of maintenance chores so the manual/s is/are all but mandatory. I have both as each addresses certain issues that the other may not provide in as much detail.

Suggest you do a spline lube on the transmission splines immediately, unless the seller gave you firm and trustworthy info as to this critical service.

Welcome aboard, Ernst. Post up some photos when you can. We love pics

Monte

[R65Biker]

Hi Montmill,
It's a 81 mod with 18k miles on the clock. Generally in a very good condition.
I will yake some pics and choose one or two to show here.
Regards, Ernst

[Bob_Roller]

We have a section here, R65 Technical FAQ/Procedure .

Under the thread heading, R65 Manual 1891-1984 .

There's a copy of the wiring diagram in the owners manual, might help you out until you get a copy of you own .

Oh yeah, welcome to the forum Ernst !!!!

[Barry]

Snowbum has an 81 diagram on his web site.

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/BMW%2081%20R65%20Wiring%20Diagram%201-16-09%20(1).pdf

[R65Biker]

Thanks Barry - this diagram you mentioned is clearly readable. I'm sure I'll now get to those one or two problems quickly.
Bob's manual I've downloaded and started reading already. Very handy to have since I baught this bike without its manual.
Thanks for the help guys,
Ernst

[Bob_Roller]

What sort of electrical problems are you experiencing ?

[R65Biker]

Low beam bad connection - once on, it stays on but you are never guaranteed that it will switch on when you do so in the first place.
Normally after driving some distance on high beam (because low beam doesnt work) you can switch back to low beam and find its working.
 Dash back-lighting (speedo & tacho) and rear riding light "died" at the same time. Was still working when I got the bike last week - both stopped working at the same time???
So hopefully nothing too serious.

[Bob_Roller]

The only thing they have in common is a ground connection .

The ground wires are solid brown in color .

There is a 'ganged' ground splice somewhere around the headlight, there are nine wires brought together at this point, pretty much all of the circuits for the all of the lighting at the front of the bike .

Don't know if this splice is visible, or if you have to open up the cloth tape on the harness itself .

[R65Biker]

Thanks Bob - maybe I'll get time to check it out this evening.

[Bob_Roller]

Had another look at the wiring diagram, if your high beam always works correctly, it can't be this ground connection .

The high beam uses the same wire as the low beam .

The only thing between the switch and the headlight is a wire connector on the right side of the backbone tube of the frame at the front of the bike, there are three connectors there, they snap into a sheet metal bracket welded to the frame .

If there is not a problem with the connector (corrosion or pushed out wire end), or any obvious wire damage between the connector and the headlight, the switch may be the problem .

They're known to go bad, I'm on my second replacement switch .

Does the switch have a detent feel to it when you move it ?

Your indicator lighting may just be a loose bulb in it's holder, it's a 'wedge' type bulb, a glass bulb with wires folded over against the glass, no metal base, I'm not real fond of these bulbs myself .

[R65Biker]

Hi Bob - if I tamper with the wires going to the headlight the low beam switches on and off. I will repeat this "test" to see if I can isolate the actual bad connection.
Any idea (from the diagrams) why the instrument panel (speedo & tacho) back lights went off at the same time as the riding light and number plate lights? 4 lamps going off at the same time is not normal.
I will print the diagram and trace the circuits this coming weekend to try to identify this problem.
Thanks, Ernst

[Bob_Roller]

They all have a fuse in common, the fuse holder should be a small black box with a thumb screw to hold the cover on, I think it's held to the backbone tube with a clamp, it's located at the rear of the tube .

Open the fuse box and take a look at the fuse and holder, again not a great design .

Clean any corrosion on the two metal tabs the fuses sit between, clean the metal contacts on the fuses them selves, push the metal tabs together a bit so they grip the fuses better .

[montmil]

Divorces, coffee and electrical circuits all begin with good grounds. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

The BMW OEM Euro-style ceramic and metal strip fuses are junk. I've used fine ScotchBrite pads, fine grit Wet-or-Dry paper, cleaners and dielectric grease trying to maintain consistent operations. Humbug. Toss 'em and retro fit the small blade-style modern fuses fitted in waterproof housings; available at good auto parts stores. 7.5 amp is the stock fuse rating.

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

The OEM fuses are rated at 8 amp, but if you replace the fuse box with the blade type fuses, 7.5 amp is the closest you'll get .