What R65 spares to keep?

[jacob.zwiers]

[Apologies to advrider.com readers for the cross-post - but the folks over there referred me here for this question].

I've had an '85 (but dual rear shock) R65 since '06, but just starting to do more of my own wrenching.

Couple weeks ago, a bud led to a neat little frankenbeemer: '84 R65 with an LS backend and an R80RT fairing. She's done yoeman's service, by all appearances - well over 150k, but with only 45k on the speedo ... no telling how many times it's been swapped out.

Couldn't say no - even though my motivation was just some of the extra body parts (practically new cowl, stock seat, battery covers, etc.) that let me bring my existing R65 back close-to-stock.

It came with another engine with < 2K, a tranny-in-a-box and much of the body parts above (and more).  Plus, boxes of signals, gaskets, a couple of gas tanks, etc. and a whole other RT fairing. Basically, another bike minus the frame.

My question is this: ... I can't keep all that crap in the garage (esp with the K75s taking up space there too). So ... I'm gonna selling as much of it (including the running bike) as I can - but before I do: what are the essentials that I should keep? What parts are gonna go on a frequent enough basis to justify keeping a bunch of spares? What parts will I kick myself for selling off in a few months? You get the idea.

I'd appreciate some guidance on this one.   Thanks!

[Barry]

The spare gearbox is worth keeping so you can swap out if you have any problems with yours. Bearing go on high milers and there is the selector spring which is known to break.

[montmil]

Keep the Ignition Trigger Unit (ITU) -often referred to as the "Bean Can". I take my spare with me on any long ride... "long" meaning past the city limit signs.

And welcome to the herd, Cerebral Turtle. When you've decided what to keep and what not to, post up here at the R65 Trading Post. We're all looking for spares and good deals.

Monte

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

If you have a spare set of handlebar switches that are good, save them for the future.

Give your front panel, that the headlight & everything attach to, a close exam.  Especially the turnsignal stalks.  They are a weak design, and you may want to swap for a better one if you have one in your collection.

Starter, diode board, alternator rotor/stator (mostly rotor).

[nhmaf]

Many parts are still "get-able", but some are not.   And, even some of the "get-able" ones are becoming quite pricey.   Some items are small and are VERY handy/important to carry as spares in the bottom of a pannier on long trips, so with these thoughts in mind:

(Verify these things are OK before packing them and counting on them to save you or someone else while on the road):
ICU
diode board
Spark plug wire
Clutch Cable
Voltage regulator
Fuses
For bikes using a "splitter" cable setup for choke/throttle, the longer of the "short" lower cables - could be used in a pinch to replace any of the (4) cables whose ends might break.
Headlamp/starter relays.

That's the "cheap but get-able" stuff...

The expensive or harder to get stuff:
Transmission (even if not 100% perfect, you can get it fixed up in your spare time and have a replacement to fit any airhead from 1981 ->1995.  
Rotor/stator (brushes are cheap).
Heads (early 80-s bikes will need valves&seats redone at some point, having a spare set of heads allows you to keep riding while getting the other set fixed up.
Carbs (again, having a spare set to work on/swap out as needed I find is handy).
Final drive unit - well, your choice, but I've got a spare one of these in my garage too - takes up less space than the gearbox.

some sundy items like turn signals, body parts if you foresee a need (battery covers can be bought new still, but are $50 apiece!).

Given enough time, I can rationalize keeping most any BMW parts - but I've also got a big shed/small barn!