ready aim...

[Patrick_Krivacka]

but you think it's ok to just cap them off? I just need to come up with something better then electrical tape?

[montmil]

i-man, did you neatly repair the wiring at the kill switch? I'm thinking you did. Bengt Mike may be addressing a concern about proper repair of active electrical circuits rather than those go-nowhere connectors you posted pics of.

BTW... Spoke with Mr Phorqs last evening on the land line. He had just replaced a GFI switch connected to his swimming pool. Hummm. Let's think about this for a moment...
Mike. Electricity. Water. Shiner beer. What could possibly go wrong? [smiley=laugh.gif]

What I have done on several occasions is to use heat shrink tubing over the connector plug or just a bare ended wire. Leave an overhang past the end of whatever it is you want to seal off from the elements.

My hi/lo hot air gun from Ace Hdwr & BMW Sply really cooks so after drawing down the tubing, I apply a lot of heat to the tips of a pair of needle-nosed pliers, reheat the excess shrink tubing, then altogether we squeeze and seal the open end. Done. Trim any excess that annoys your sensibilities.

Monte

[Bengt_Phorqs]

Mike. Electricity. Water. Shiner beer. What could possibly go wrong?  

Absolutely nothing!  Everything went just as I planned it, thank you Mr. Farklemeister.  And I didn't even have a Shiner until all was said and done.
Now i-man, it appears I may have misunderstood, you have merely capped off the NON live wires?  OK, in that case, never mind. [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif]

[Patrick_Krivacka]

yeah, just capped off the plugs in the photos a couple of pages back.

[montmil]

Well, folks, I think our work here is done. Another satisfied customer. As i-man rides off into the sunset, let's all sing a little song... Lead us off, Lucky Lou.

Happy trails to you,
   Keep smiling until then.

Happy trails to you,
   'til we meet again.

 [smiley=clap.gif] [smiley=clap.gif] [smiley=clap.gif] [smiley=clap.gif] [smiley=clap.gif]

[Patrick_Krivacka]

I'm sorry monte. I wish I didn't have to do this after such a nice send off, but.........the saga continues. tried to take it for a shakedown spin, but made it less then 20 feet before turning around. it stumbles terribly when i let out the clutch and wouldn't go faster then 10 or 5 mph, no matter how much gas I gave it. the spark seems pretty week (I have those plug wires with the see through caps) It starts, idles great. but no joy on take off. as always-help!

[montmil]

...I have those plug wires with the see through caps... It starts, idles great. but no joy on take off. as always-help!

I have those plug wires with the see through caps. Say what? Those are Harley parts.

Let's back up a bit. Before the fireworks issue, was the engine running OK? No stutter-stumble?

I'll toss out a couple ideas and others will soon join in, I'm sure.

Is the battery fully charged? Fuel lines clear and float bowls free of water/debris? I'm attempting to recall the ignition coil setup on the F'Beemer... proper function and fit? Spark plugs screwed in snug?

If it's starting and running, I would think the engine performance issue is ignition or fuel related. Start with the battery check n' charge.

It's something simple. Just gotta find it.  

And Lou, keep your guitar in the case for now...

[Patrick_Krivacka]

yes, I believe I have a Harley coil as well!
It ran great right before the fireworks display. In fact, it was running great while the firework display was happening! (for a while at least)
would a under charged battery cause it to behave in the manor I described? The reason I ask is I once left the lights on and ran the battery out, got a jump and it ran fine. Isn't the battery very low in that situation? (not challenging you, just trying to learn)
It could be moisture in the gas, as I had the tank off and the carb tubes uncovered (well, covered by the roof overhead, but you know what I mean.) and it has been very rainy lately. do you think that could be it?

[montmil]

...would a under charged battery cause it to behave in the manor I described?

Quite possibly. The design of the airhead alternator is such that it does not begin charging the battery until the engine rpms get up to around 4K. Short trips and city driving, you're really running on battery power alone. A very low battery may not supply the voltage needed to fire the plugs much over idle rpm. Plus, you've been using up the battery's stored energy with your "fireworks" repairs and tests.

The reason I ask is I once left the lights on and ran the battery out, got a jump and it ran fine. Isn't the battery very low in that situation?

Yep. I did the same although I used the LeMans run n' bump to get going. Battery was low but had enough to start and get me home to the Tender.

Put Frankie-B on the charger for the evening. Report back after your ride. Fingers crossed...

Monte

[Patrick_Krivacka]

full charge on battery, same symptoms. Any other ideas? I'll try anything at this point.

[montmil]

Checked float bowls for junk? Choke cables correct function? Is the exhaust puking rich smoke? Throttle cable full function yanking the slides up? Have you changed ignition timing?

I still don't like those plug wires... could be iffy.

Come on boys. A little help for our frustrated friend.

[Patrick_Krivacka]

One thing-I changed the plugs to ngk bpr6es and seem to remember that the plugs shouldn't have an r in the title/make/model whatever you call it. true, and is there any chance that this is a problem in the short term?

Another thing, the gen light wants to stay on, meaning it does flicker off, but mostly stay on.

From reading my post i'm sure y'all have figured out that i hardly know what I'm doing. any chance I got some wires in the wrong place when i put the new harness on? Or would it not run at all instead of running poorly?

I hear you on the plug wires and it's something i'd like to address, but does it stand to reason that they were fine 3 or 4 weeks ago and now it's the cause of the motorcycle running so poorly?

I'll pull the float bowls and clean them, but my intuition tells me that this started with the electrical system, and that something is still wrong. not trying to fight it, just throwing that out there.

[Barry]

One thing-I changed the plugs to ngk bpr6es and seem to remember that the plugs shouldn't have an r in the title/make/model whatever you call it. true, and is there any chance that this is a problem in the short term?

Well resistor plugs won't help if you already have a weak spark and do those "see through caps" have a spark gap in them for visual effect ? If so they might not be helping either. You do need some resistance in the lead/cap/plug combo. Minimum 1000 ohms for points ignition or 5000 ohms for electronic ignition. Substantially more resistance will weaken the spark which may not matter on a good ignition system but will matter on a  marginal one.

[Patrick_Krivacka]

i guess it couldn't hurt to change caps. can i just go to a auto place and pick them up? or do i need motorcycle ones?

[montmil]

i-man, Are you pointed or electronic ignition? I don't recall.

What I'm running on both Hall sensor-equipped R65s:

     NGK Resistor (5K Ohm) Spark Plug Cap designed for threaded stud plugs
     NGK BP7ES non-resistor Spark Plugs
     7mm Plug Wires - Copper core with Black silicone rubber casing

Best bet on buying these bits local would be a nearby Rice Shop.

If you have a points ignition, someone else will need to assist as to proper plug caps, wires, & plugs.

You may be able to check the condition of your HD coils with a DVOM. Somebody?