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Author Topic: spark plug cap test  (Read 1362 times)

manxr65

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spark plug cap test
« on: July 01, 2010, 11:19:22 AM »
i started bike up today and after a 25 min ride i wanted to check the carbs for balance etc.

i did the spark plug cap were you pull one off then the other , plug 1 was ok but plug 2 just kept dying , two plug together are ok . carbs are balanced ok .bike run fine with both plugs in together.

i clean plugs and tryed again but the same again.
could this be a coil problem
seems strange when both plugs are in it goes ok .

Crossrodes

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Re: spark plug cap test
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2010, 01:36:05 PM »
Manx if it died when you pulled plug 2 I would first suspect plug 1.  If not that it could be the plug wires or the coil.  If I were you I'd switch the wires around and then switch the coils to see where the problem follows.  If the problem doesn't follow I'd suspect either the carb adjustment or the valve adjustment.  

manxr65

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Re: spark plug cap test
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2010, 01:55:23 PM »
ok thanks for that.

just one thing i want to run everyone, when carb syncing  do you do the idle by ear first, i mean compare one cylinder to the other by taking of spark cap and then the other side until they are close . do you then put a balancing gauge on it for the cables or do you balance idle then cables .

Offline montmil

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Re: spark plug cap test
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2010, 04:58:12 PM »
Quote
ok thanks for that.

just one thing i want to run everyone, when carb syncing  do you do the idle by ear first, i mean compare one cylinder to the other by taking of spark cap and then the other side until they are close . do you then put a balancing gauge on it for the cables or do you balance idle then cables .

Throttle cables should be slack while establishing the idle mixture and idle stop screw rpms. These two screws interact mightily with one another!

Using the DIY $4.00 manometer, and after you're happy with the idle settings, adjust throttle cables for idle balance and then balance them again at about 3000 rpm -both adjustments by using the threaded screw adjusters for the throttle cables. You should then have one smooth running Airhead.

Monte
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

GrimReaper

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Re: spark plug cap test
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2010, 06:12:39 PM »
+1 what Monte said.I did it a month ago and now I have the smoothiest engine I have ever seen.
 The price for DIY manometer is $5.86

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: spark plug cap test
« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2010, 08:12:48 PM »
I think I spent over $10 for mine.

I couldn't help it, that 4 foot stainless steel rule was SO pretty!

Offline montmil

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Re: spark plug cap test
« Reply #6 on: July 02, 2010, 08:15:23 AM »
Quote
I think I spent over $10 for mine.

I couldn't help it, that 4 foot stainless steel rule was SO pretty!

Showboat!  [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

manxr65

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Re: spark plug cap test
« Reply #7 on: July 02, 2010, 11:18:08 AM »
i spent an hour today playing with carbs and i noticed that the bike runs smoother with one carb having a 1/8th of a turn more on the stop screws , but i put the balancers on and it say its out by miles , just leave it and balance the cables with throttle open and seems to be some what better .
 
does this sound about right to any one else out there

Offline montmil

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Re: spark plug cap test
« Reply #8 on: July 02, 2010, 02:21:36 PM »
manxr65says, "I spent an hour today playing with carbs and I noticed that the bike runs smoother with one carb having a 1/8th of a turn more on the stop screws , but I put the balancers on and it say its out by miles."

Manx, I'm thinking there's a bit more work to do on those mixture screws. To begin, set the mixture screws 1/2 turn out from a gently closed position; probably not more than 3/4 turn out depending on the model Bings you have.

    Put the idle screws about one turn in -clockwise- from idle arm contact. Throttle and choke cables should be slack. This idle screw setting should keep the engine running while you slowly tweak the mixture screw about 1/16 of a turn at a time. Closing the screw will decrease the revs and vice versa.
     Little bit at a time. Clear the carbs with a quick throttle blip and let the revs settle. Try to get the manometer balanced while staying close to the mixture screw setting spec'd for your model Bings.
 
    Then you can move on to balancing the Idle Stop Screws.

continued with next post...
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline montmil

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Re: spark plug cap test
« Reply #9 on: July 02, 2010, 02:23:32 PM »
Synchronizing Throttle Stop Screws at Idle

     The manometer fluid will rise on the carb where the throttle butterfly is closed more than the other carb. The air moves faster through this carb and raises the intake vacuum.

     Turn that carb's throttle stop screw clockwise until fluid movement stops, then just a touch more until the fluid moves back toward equilibrium. As the fluid approaches the balance point, turn the throttle stop screw counterclockwise and stop the fluid movement right at the balance point.
    Check the tachometer for idle speed between 900 - 1100 RPM. If your idle speed is too high or too low, adjust both throttle stop screws until the idle speed is within the 900-1100 rev range with the manometer fluid stopped at the balance point.

    You may wish to readjust the Mixture Screws. If you do a mixture adjustment, recheck the throttle stop screw balance and idle RPM. Readjust if needed. The mixture screws and throttle stop screws interact big time!

Check to be sure there's still slack in the throttle cables. Remember, once those throttle stop screws move off their stops, idle adjustment is moot. If the balance readings are in equilibrium, the idle throttle stop screw synchro is complete.

continued with next post...
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline montmil

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Re: spark plug cap test
« Reply #10 on: July 02, 2010, 02:39:03 PM »
Synchronizing the Throttle Cables

     Now you can synchronize the throttle cables. This is essential to the smooth running and vibration-free highway speed operation of your bike.

     Both throttle cables should still be slackened with their locknuts loose. Carefully turn the throttle cable adjusters counterclockwise until most, but not all, of the slack is removed from the cables. Then finger-tighten the throttle cable lock nuts 'til they just barely seat. There must be some slack remaining in both cables.

     Start the bike. Idle speed should be the same as you originally set it. Move the handlebars lock to to lock. Idle speed should not change. If idle speed or balance changes, you have too much tension on the cable(s) and must dial in some slack. If all checks out, you can now synchronize the throttle cables.

     With the engine running, slowly roll the throttle on until the engine speed picks up to 2500 RPM. Hold it there and check the manometer fluid. If the fluid is moving, turn down (clockwise) the throttle cable adjuster on the low side of the fluid until it stops, then moves back toward equilibrium, while holding the RPMs at 2500.
     As the fluid reaches the balance point, turn the throttle cable adjuster counterclockwise and stop the fluid movement as it reaches the balance point. Snug the cable adjuster lock nuts and recheck the balance by rolling on the throttle.

    If the fluid does not move from the balance point as the revs come up, shut off the bike and tighten the lock nuts. Recheck and turn the handlebars side to side. If the fluid remains balanced, you now have perfectly synchronized carburetors.

    Return and adjust the choke cables to the point where they just begin to move with the slightest bit of enrichener lever movement.

     My thanks to Hugh Kenny, Airheads Beemer Club #6051, way up in Cheyenne, Wyoming. Hugh helped me get both my R65s calmed down and smoothed out. A Bing intervention, it was.

« Last Edit: July 02, 2010, 05:49:44 PM by montmil »
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet