Painting the front fender

[montmil]

Well, I've been working on it.  Got the primer on yesterday and put the black shiny coat on today.  Looking good!   8-)  

Now I will wait for a few days to let it dry completely.  Then I have to decide weather to put a clear coat on it or just wax it really good.   But first I  have to check out clear coats and see exactly what the advantage is.  It might have to do with hardness and imperviousness to scratches, gasoline, oil, etc.?

You're almost home, Melena. You did not mention how many coats of color you shot but 3-4 would be time well spent.

After the paint has cured for a few days and before you even think about rattle can clear... try this suggestion. Visit a local auto body supply shop and purchase a few sheets of 800 grit wet-or-dri paper. Also buy a small, flexible rubber sanding pad. 3M makes 'em. Black firm foam and approx 2.5x4 inches.

Cut the 800 into usable sizes and toss 'em in a bucket of water. Use the 800 and the foam pad to color sand the cured paint. Long, parallel strokes. Caution on edges as you can easily cut through the paint.

After the color sanding, use a mild polish and then wax the previously cured paint. Cured is impotent, right? You can then forget about a clear coat.

I rattled-canned the side panels on the 1981 R65, then color sanded, polished and waxed. Couple years now and they still shine like the proverbial diamond in a billy goat's butt.

Monte

[Melena]

Thanks for that info Monte!  

I think I have 3 coats on it.  Maybe 4 in some places.  The directions on the can said 2 coats, but I didn't think that was enough.  

I'll give it a good wet sanding like you said.  I have 600 grit wet/dry.  Will that be okay?  I haven't been able to find anything finer yet.  I'll see how the sanding does.  I can always add another coat of paint if the 600 is too coarse.  But I will go find one of those rubber sanding pads.  I guess that would be more consistent than my fingers.

It almost looks good enough like it is.   [smiley=happy.gif]   Well, almost good enough.  

Tomorrow I will continue on to the next stage.   8-)

[lfdelrio]

Hi Melena,
Hopefully you'll catch this before you wet sand your fender...from my own experience (I've painted the fairing on my LS as well as one car) you don't want to sand your paint with anything coarser than 1000 (even with that it's very easy to sand through the paint).  I would go for 2000, yes it will take a bit longer but the results will be great (it will remove all the orange peel).  Also depending on the type of paint you got you should wait before waxing.  For example if you're using a rattle can acrylic enamel (single stage paint) you should wait at least 30 days for all the solvents to evaporate (obviously less if your paint is catalyzed).

Hope this helps

Luis

[steven m]

Depending on the paint you used, if it is smooth and shiny, and you like the way it looks now, just leave it alone and wax it in no less than two weeks.  A month would be better.  Paint take a really long time to fully harden, even up in warm and sunny Sonoma.

If it has runs and or orange peel, then sand it and put on another coat.  Clear coat is never a bad idea but with non metallic black shouldn't be necessary.

Steve

[Melena]

Great info guys!  Thank you.  Glad I looked at this before I did anything today.  I will go find some 2000 wet/dry sandpaper.  

I'll be going up to the MOA Rally in Redmond in less than 30 days, so no wax before then.  I can always sand it a bit and add another coat of paint if it gets nicked or scratched on the ride.  

[Crossrodes]

Regarding using 1000 or 2000 grit wet/dry....I've been wondering if one should use this on a final base coat prior to applying the first clear coat or is this too fine to get good adhesion?

[nhmaf]

The finest stuff that I've used with hand-sanding is 1200 grit wet/dry, which is pretty good, I think.   Any finer polishing needs I tend to do with some automotive polishing compound like they use with the rotary buffers.   I think that you'd be OK with sanding with 1000 or higher and then clear-coating, at least I haven't had issues with clearcoat yet.

[montmil]

I've been looking to replace some pin stripes on my seat cowl.  I found some 3M tape at Pep Boys that looks adequate, but sure would like to get some advice from experienced hands.

Something like this? The tape's sizes and spacing is very close to the OEM BMW paint striping. Positioning is as stock.

I did both the tank and tail piece in the original R65 layout. The 1983 bike is 501 blue. I had originally considered white stripping but it looked rather garish to me. The final choice of silver offers a subdued look. I feel the color adds an elegant touch without too much "bling". Certainly does a fine job of defining the R65's snazzy fuel tank.

I ustacould run a sword striper brush and a can of 1-Shot fairly well but it's a skill that has to be practiced often to maintain proficiency.

I have been lead to believe that it was a squadron -staffel?- of women that laid on the paint stripes at the BMW factory.

Monte

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

It looks beautiful, Monte.  Did R65's have a double stripe?

Now I have to compare mine to yours.  Mine is sitting on top of one of my stereo speakers, waiting for me to buy a 2nd gen. bench seat on which to put it.

[montmil]

It looks beautiful, Monte.  Did R65's have a double stripe?

Oh, yes, quite right.  My 1981 R65 is still dressed in its original colors; black with a white and red pinstripes on the fuel tank and tailpiece. Although the stripping is buffed nearly off the fuel tank in the knee grip area, it's a touchstone from three decades ago. I would not have the heart to repaint the bike.

Monte

[Yikes]

Good to know that you can get such nice results from the tape.

My '82 has the hand-painted red and white stripes on the tank.  I'm not sure that it is the original black, as there seems to be a layer of red underneath everything that chips or scratches.  Tape was used for everything else and I mean everything -red and white stripes on the seat cowl, the front fender, the back fender, the side covers, the BMW bags and on the black plastic all 4 turn signals.  A little much, even for me whose motto is "Anything worth doing is worth overdoing."  I guess when the PO bought the striping tape,  he decided to darn well use up as much as he could.  

[larstorders]

The original factory painted pinstripes on my 1982 R65 were applied using the maskind tape method. You can tell by their raised edges. It is quite easy to produce a job of equal quality using a quality plastic insulation tape( it will stretch nicely to accomodate the curves required and the paint won't run under the tape). A couple of squirts from the rattle can will then do the job. Good luck

[Barry]

Monte,  

Did you have to clear coat over the tape or are they durable if applied on top of the clear coat ?

[montmil]

Monte,  

Did you have to clear coat over the tape or are they durable if applied on top of the clear coat ?

On a clean, wax free surface, this stuff sticks tighter than a tick. I have used this type of tape on several different projects; my personal aircraft (2), automotive and now motorcycle. No clear coat.
Also, my wife's new Cadillac DeVille has subtle OEM vinyl striping on top of the clear coat paint.

Don't want to get too far off this "paint" topic but if there's interest I'd start a fresh thread on tape application, tight turns, etc.

Monte

[Crossrodes]

I'd be interested in that info Monte.