Painting the front fender

[Melena]

I'm not sure this should be in the tech section, but it is kind of technical so here goes.  

Since I crunched my front fender on the way to the 49er Rally, I had to get a new fender.  Luckily I found a used fender in good condition except for the paint and the dirt on the  underside.  It looked like it was off of a bike that was used to bushwhack through the desert.  The front part didn't have any paint left.  So, I have decided to do the painting myself.

I took off the metal mounting bracket and cleaned it up.  I started out by wet sanding the fender with 320 grit wet sandpaper.  The paint that was left came off very easily except where it was protected from the sun right under the forks.  It does look like there is a primer on it that got partly sanded off.   Now it is smooth and clean and ready for paint.

[size=12]Now for the questions.[/size]  What kind of paint is the best?  Should I use a primer first?  Is there anything else I need to do to prepare it?  I've got 400 grit wet sandpaper for between coats.  

I also got a pair of BMW hand guards.  They are white and I'd like to paint them black or maybe yellow.  What is needed to prepare very smooth and shiny plastic for painting and what kind of paint should be used?

Justin, I know you have painted motorcycles.   What would you suggest?  Anyone else have any ideas?

Thanks for your help!  

[nhmaf]

You definitely do want to use primer - ideally an automotive grade paint & primer from the same company - some mfgrs chemical bases do not play nicely together, and I find the easiest way to avoid this potential issue is to use the same brand/product line.   Not only will the primer help seal the part and any remaining paint from interacting with your new paint, when it goes on and dries you may possibly see "lines" where you thought you had sanded things smooth enough, but there was still a line/discontinuity -> more sanding needed! (and re-prime).   Let the primer fully cure for several days before applying any color.  The fully cured primer should stick well to the subsurface, and leave a clean surface for the color to stick to.   I use disposable latex gloves when handling the primed parts to avoid leaving skin oils, dirt etc. on the primer surface.

I've used Rustoleum paint on bike parts in the past, but I think that I'm going to try something else, especially for plastic parts.  Things seemed to get 'weird' when I used the Rusto enamel primer and semi-gloss black on my sidecovers.   Justin or others can give better recomenndation.   If I don't get a decent paint sprayer for my compressor first, I may try to get some Eastwood automotive paints - they used to be available in spray cans (probably still are).

You can certainly hand-sand, but you'll need to get some finer grit paper.  I use 400-600 for smoothing and cleaning up runs/orange peel, and go up to 1000 for wet sanding color coats.   A little Maguire's fine polishing compound maybeat the end.   Are you thinking of using a clearcoat?

There are folks here who know much more about auto-painting than I do - I'm sure they'll chime in soon!

[Lucky_Lou]

As you dont know the "paint History" nhmaf is right to point out you could have problems with chemical reactions even though you have sanded it down.There a a number of sealants available which you spray on before the primer consult your paint shop im sure you get good advice also if you want to go the extra mile finish the job with a protective clear lacquer(again talk to the paint shop) this will protect from Fuel/brake fluid spills ect.All these products are availiable in aerosol if you dont have any spray gear.
Lou

[R65LUST]

Above advice is very good.

  Generally, if you prime the fender and you don't have any weird reactions with the substrate, chances are your topcoat(s) will be fine.  The best paint is made at the automotive paint store, is mixed with a reducer (thinner) and has a catalyst added.  It is then clearcoated with clear that is also mixed right before painting.  This is difficult, expensive, and requires an air compressor and a gun, but also requires that you clean everything up. Drag.

Use a rattle can.  Go to an automotive store that carries paint, and ask for help.  The auto touchup spraypaint is better than regular spraypaint, has a dedicated topcoat clear, as well as primers specifically made for them.  Follow the directions.  Watch some how-to videos.  This route is cheap, with no cleanup or waste.  By the way, you shouldn't have to sand between coats of paint or clearcoat.  (Unless you mess up!)  Yes, sanding between coats of primer to arrive at the final perfect base is done with "wet" sandpaper, as would be any subsequent "oops" repair of paint and clear.  I use 600.  400 is  about right for the primer, but too aggressive for the paint/clear.

For the plastic, try Fusion by Krylon.  It is for plastic specifically. A supermoto rider I ride with painted his white plastics black with it.  He then crashed, repeatedly, on the track and it just scuffed up.  It did not peel.  Amazing.  Do not paint the plastic handguards with regular black spraypaint.  I don't think it will work.

What color is the bike/fender?

[steven m]

Under the seat, on top of the fender, the BMW paint code is displayed.  If it is any color than non metallic black or white, call up Holt BMW in Ohio, http://www.holtbmw.com/, and see if you can order the matching color and some clear coat in rattle cans.  Then wash the plastic in warm soap and water, rinse it well, and let it dry completely, then use etching primer on the bare plastic, let it dry two days, put the color on, and a couple of coats of clear.  Let it dry for a week, then rub it out.  With two stage paint you only lay down a thin coat of color and then put the clear over it without sanding.  It will look great and match the rest of the bike.

Check out Monte's photos.

Have fun
Steve

[larstorders]

My first attempt at painting boxer plastics was very dissapointing and time consuming. I used normal rattle can primer and colour matched rattle can paint from paints4u.com (uk) . Firstly wherever the primer came in contact with the plastic it bubbled up. Secondly sanding that down messed up the plastic underneath. Thirdly, the colour didn't match, cos the original paint had faded over the years.
So now, I always put on a coat or two of rattle can plastic primer first and I don't rely on the colour code to achieve a good match. That's worked fine for me since. Good luck.

[Barry]

Can you do a quality paint job with "rattle Cans"  ?  It's a question that's always interested me.  I think you can do a pretty good job with care and patience but how durable will it be compared to the original finish. One new thing that might help is that 2 pack clear coat is now available in rattle cans. There is some sort of button on the bottom of the can which releases the catalyst and the can then has a short finite life and of course you have to use it all up or loose it. Will it be as hazarous to use as normal 2 pack ? Anybody tried it yet ?

A Google search for "2 pack clear aerosol" will find several manufacturers doing these now - here's one.  

http://www.spot-ontrading.co.uk/hb-body-496-2k-ms-clear-400ml-long-life-8-p.asp

[Melena]

What color is the bike/fender?

Bike is black!  Easy.  I think any gloss black will do just fine.  Plus, aren't these fenders fiberglass?  Does that make a difference?  

It doesn't have to be perfect.  Just good.  It seems like it should be so easy, but maybe not.  There is a good paint store in the area that carries auto paint.  I think car fenders and bumpers would be very similar to my fender.  

I'm also going to call a place in town that does cars and motorcycles.  They started out doing custom paint jobs on motorcycles and have won awards.  I hope that doesn't make them more expensive.  But I'll call them and if it's within reason I may just take the stuff to them to paint.  All I can do is ask.  

I'll let you know!  Thanks for all the advice.  

[Melena]

I decided what to do.    

I called the place that paints cars, motorcycles, etc., and they said a ball park figure would be $300 - $350 to paint the fender.    No way!  I'd rather do my own no matter how much trouble it is.

So, I went to the best paint store in town that carries paint for everything.   These guys know what they are doing.  I took the fender with me so they could see what I was painting and that I wanted to do a rattle can paint job - don't want to mess with mixing.    He gave me the black primer and black gloss color coat and said that would be the thing to use.  The primer is flexible too.  He said that would work on any plastic part and that I should be able to use the same primer and color for the hand guards.  I just remembered, though, that I forgot to ask about a clear coat.  Darn.  Now I have to drive back down there.  (sigh)

I've already read the directions on the cans.    That is what I'm supposed to do, right?    Now I've just got to do some touch up sanding and cleaning of the fender and let it dry and I'll be ready to start the paint job tomorrow, unless something else comes up......................... like a ride.  Hmmmmmmm.  

I'll let you know how it goes and have pictures too.  

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

yes, the front fender is fiberglass.  DAMHIK


I hope you have fun, Melena!

That price you were quoted must be a California body shop!
I had my tank repaired (minor dents) and painted along with the fender for $550.  And he is one of the most expensive guys in the area!

[nhmaf]

I don't think any pre-shop will charge less than $300 for ANYTHING - partially to keep  any but the really serious away, and also becuase they do have a fair amount of setup time, prep work, and cleanup time to deal with for any job, even a small one.

I got a quote to repaint the body parts of the R65LS at a good body shop in town and it was between $550 - $700 for single colors, AND I had to bring in/buy the paint, too.   They would include sanding and any light filler work if needed (it isn't).  We'll see - for $700 I could buy a fair amount of beer, 2-part paint, decent spray gun, and more sandpaper for myself, too.

[Melena]

Well, I've been working on it.  Got the primer on yesterday and put the black shiny coat on today.  Looking good!   8-)  

Now I will wait for a few days to let it dry completely.  Then I have to decide weather to put a clear coat on it or just wax it really good.   But first I  have to check out clear coats and see exactly what the advantage is.  It might have to do with hardness and imperviousness to scratches, gasoline, oil, etc.?

[Bengt_Phorqs]

Melena, get some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper.  After the paint is really good and dry then wet the sand paper and sand it down.  That will put a really high gloss finish on it.  Monte has a lead on some pin striping that will really accent the paint work.  Send us some pix when you get it finished.

[Melena]

Melena, get some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper.After the paint is really good and dry then wet the sand paper and sand it down.That will put a really high gloss finish on it.Monte has a lead on some pin striping that will really accent the paint work.Send us some pix when you get it finished.  

Thanks Mr. Phorqs!    (I've met a person from Sweden named Bengt, so when you showed up I thought that was actually your name!    Hmmm, I'd better be careful here.  It might be your middle name.)

I have that sandpaper already.  I'll give that a try and see what happens.  I'm learning as I go here. So far so good!  

So I'm guessing that I'll do the wet sanding, clean it up and then put on a couple coats of wax?  I've got Mother's Carnuba wax that I've used on the other shiny bits of the bike.  

It doesn't have to be perfect.  Good enough is good enough.   8-)

[Yikes]

Monte has a lead on some pin striping that will really accent the paint work.

I've been looking to replace some pin stripes on my seat cowl.  I found some 3M tape at Pep Boys that looks adequate, but sure would like to get some advice from experienced hands.