Leaks Leaks and more leaks

[fermin]

I ve been fianally able to ride the bike frequently for short  distances while bringing everything up to standards but plagued by leaks and the driveway is begining to get stained, (no complaints from the wife yet).
1.  Cylinder head covers-fixed after doubling up gasket as suggested
2.  Ujoint boot-the boot was installed without checking for top/bot position, rotated 180 following posting comments but leak still there.  Started to rotate the hose clamp from top to side and other positions, but no difference  The clamp appears to be good and same as the front unit.  Will replace just in case. Theres a notch at the top end of the swing arm, does the boot have to cover the notch?
3. Shifter seal.  This one just started after changing oil and started to use the bike.  Can the seal be removed from the outside?.  
4. Rear drive drain-This one probable because I didnt change the washer.
Regards to everyone

[Mike V]

fermin,

2.) There will most likely be two small metal tabs on the driveshaft housing, one at the top and one at the bottom..the driveshaft boot should be slid under these tabs along with the metal clamp under the tabs and equally over the rear of the boot lip.
3.) Shifter seal is quite easy to replace.  You'll have to drain the transmission fluid or have something to collect the fluid when you remove the shift mechanism. Carefully pry out the old seal and push in the new with an appropriate sized socket or similar device.

[montmil]

Hey, fermin

#2 - The u-joint boot is always a PITA. I replaced a torn boot on my 1981 R65 but do not recall the "notch" you mention as I've slept since then. If the boot is installed in such a way that any lubricant reservoir can be exposed to the ambient atmosphere, then yes, you may likely continue to stain the driveway.

Perhaps a photo may show up... Guys?

#3 - The shifter shaft seal is installed from the exterior. When the shaft is removed, the trans oil begins to run out. Suggest you lean the bike over against a sturdy, padded support before beginning the work. Not knowing the year of your bike but my 81 and 83 R65s use a 26X16X7 seal. Confirm your needs. Dot not set the seal any deeper than flush with the outside of the case. A t-i-n-y bit recessed would be OK.

#4 - Use the correct crush washer to prevent leaks and do not over tighten the bolt. Just torque it down until you feel the threads strip, then back off a quarter turn.

Monte

[Mike V]

Perhaps a photo may show up... Guys?

fermin,

Attached are two photos, the first (002) if you look closely at the top-left of the photo you will see the metal tab the boot needs to rest under. And the second photo (009) shows the lower tab near the clamp screw. Both are a bit difficult to see in the photos but if you look closely hopefully you can locate them. You can feel with your fingers if you run them along the housing.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

You may find these crushable copper crush washers superior to the flat aluminum ones.
http://www.bmwhucky.com/010033.html


The "notches" are actually "tabs" that are welded on to the swingarm and then bent toward the front of the bike with a few mm rise.

If rotating the boot didn't make a difference, you may want to consider removing it and turning it around.  Some have a front and rear.

[montmil]

.If rotating the boot didn't make a difference, you may want to consider removing it and turning it around. Some have a front and rear.

I'm just glad you shared that tidbit, Rob. The same thought occurred to me but I just didn't have the heart. The boot replacement, along with the necessary removal/refit of the u-joint bolts and those pesky clamps, is one of my most un-favorite chores.

[smiley=steinigung.gif]
Monte

[fermin]

NOOOOO not the boot,  it slipped out when I was rotating it and it wasnt any easier the 2nd time around

[fermin]

I'll look for the lower tab tomorrow, I handnt noticed that one.

[Mike V]

fermin,

Don't forget; I think we covered this earlier a while back...look for markings on the boot.  Some have it, some don't - if you see lettering to the effect of: "getrieb seite" or "oben"  that side will face up and towards the transmission.  Some boots do not have any markings on them such as mine other than numbering and they seem to be perfectly symetrical front to back and top to bottom.  

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I think I may have opened my metal tabs a little bit with a screwdriver, and then closed (pinched) them back when I was done.  
You may or may not want to try this.

[bruce_launceston]

I replaced the shifter shaft seal with a new one of the appropriate size only to have it still leak.
I fixed it by buying a new seal with an inside diameter 1mm smaller than standard.

It stopped the leak and works fine as the shaft only rotates slightly and occassionally.

Cheers Bruce

[montmil]

I replaced the shifter shaft seal with a new one of the appropriate size only to have it still leak. I fixed it by buying a new seal with an inside diameter 1mm smaller than standard. It stopped the leak and works fine as the shaft only rotates slightly and occassionally. Cheers Bruce

I remember when you had that issue, Bruce.

Was there much wear on the shifter shaft? At least it no longer dribbles. [smiley=thumbup.gif]

Monte