Suecanada posted this excellent guide for our Wee M Ws. Her full sized photos here:
http://sue5762.fotopic.net/c1253501.html Here goes:
1.If you have an LS remove your windscreen and black plastic cowling around the instruments. Use a circlip plier to unscrew the round ring around the ignition key hole. Pull out the turn signal bulbs from their holders while the black cowling is slightly pulled back. Remove totally and put all loose parts aside safely.
2. Remove the gastank and store away. Remove the black plastic fairing backing that wraps around the forks just for safety sake as these are hard to come by I have heard. I didn't at first and if you're careful you don't need to . Using a 10mm allen socket, undo and remove the centre top steering stem bolt.
4. Put the bike on a lift or centrestand and raise front wheel about 2" up and block it there.
5. Undo the two 17mm clamping bolts that hold the forks in the top yoke and the
two 13mm bolts that hold the instrument panel to the top yoke too. I did not unscrew the speedometer cable from the speedometer as I got at the left 13mm bolt from the side with an open end wrench. The other side i used a 13mm socket.
6. Remove any ziptied cables or things attached to the handlebar that would not allow you to pull the handlebar unit up and back. I had a modulating headlight sensor bulb ziptied to the handlebar which had to be cut off.
7. I used a big screwdriver to gently wedge the handlebar unit up as far as I could then used the rubber hammer to coax the handlebar unit off the rest of the way then eased it back onto a big pile of sheets on top of the frame backbone. I put a piece of wood under it to stabilize it in a vertical position....given that the brake fluid reservoir might be happier vertically! Maybe not an issue.
8. Undo the knurled adjuster big ring..I had to use a rubber adjustable boa to undo it. I wasn't strong enough to turn it anticlockwise by hand. The boa is great. Clean up the adjustment ring and I lightly greased it and set it aside for later reassembly.
9. After removing your wheel block try to pull the fork assemby down...here i ended up tapping the steering stem with the rubber hammer on a block of wood. You can see your progress by looking under at where the lower bearing will start to appear. Once the lower bearing is down and out from the steering frame tube and you think you can get at it to clean it, your fine. Put a wedged shaped wood block under the wheel now or even your square wood block is OK.
10. Remove top bearing and clean up top and bottom bearings AND their races so they spin beautifully. I used a toothbrush for the lower one, sprayed with brake cleaner, dried.
11. Pack on the grease by hand and really smunch it in everywhere you can...too much is not an issue..can be cleaned up after everything is back together.
12. Now the hard part where you need your friend. Lift up holding the bottom of the forks as far up as you can, trying to keep the alignment proper such that the lower bearing goes into its race and the steering stem goes in and up the middle of the top hole too. This is hard and you may need your friend to tell you how you are doing. When the lower bearing is mostly up into its race punch the wedge farther under the wheel with your foot to hold things up until you can get a clamp under the lower bearing and over the lower yoke. Rest. Tighten up the clamp as best you can...the lower bearing should be seated now and the wedge under the wheel will hold it there.
13. Use two clamps to evenly seat the top bearing into its race. I suppose one can use a large socket to hammer in the top bearing but whatever you use you don't want to dislodge the lower bearing again.
14. Replace the cleaned and slightly greased adjuster ring and screw up.
15. Put a bit of grease on the top part of the forks and inside the top yoke holes so they slip onto easier. Replace the handlebars and do up the 2 bolts that attach the instrument bracket and the two bolts that clamp the yoke around the forks (30 foot pounds. You will know that the yoke is down far enough as these front instrument bracket bolts will line up with their holes and forks up properly.
16. Put on the 10mm allen centre nut and tighten down to seat bearing.
17. Loosen 10mm allen nut.
18. Now I backed off the adjuster nut until I got some fore and aft play when tugging the bottom forks. Tighten this adjuster nut until the play disappears and then retighten the top nut. Check that the forks fall to the side gently when handlebars pushed by you one way. Feel for any notchiness. If none be happy...if notchiness felt bearings may need replacing I guess.
19. Take bike off centrestand or lift and then roll it forward and apply front brake. Feel and listen for clunk. Recheck the fore/aft play and free movement of the handlebars to each side. Check nothing like cables are binding things up.
20. Mount the gas tank.
20. Take for a road test and check play and handlebar movement again until you're happy with things. You might want to do tight slow turns.
21. If happy then put the black plastic instrument cover back on with the turn signal bulbs back in their holders and do up the ignition ring.
22. Be happy.
