Electrical "Issues"

[Red_Hen]

Hi Gang

I'm thinking my R65LS is Haunted.  My BMW buddy, a retired engineer and I spent several hours today trying to troubleshoot.  All we get is a "click" from the headlight relay (at least that's what I think it is).  No lights, no instrument lights, no horn, no starter.  Just a click when we turn the switch.  That's it.

The Clymer book has a wiring diagram but we're wondering if any of you have one that might show more detail?   I've attached a picture of the different relays & boxes that are electrical.  If you can help me identify what does what, that should be helpful.

I'm open to suggestions

[Lucky_Lou]

Check the pins in the cable connectors clean them all that cured my irratic indecators.
Lou

[Bob_Roller]

I remember that you had issues with the wires at the ignition switch, did you get that straightened out ?

Looking at the wiring diagram from my '84 LS, I'm going to have to say that all of the circuits you have problems with, are associated with the ignition switch .

Do you have easy access to the ignition switch, or is the fairing back on ?

One quick check for the ignition switch, is to take all of the wires off of the switch, and hold them together so they have electrical contact, but there is a 'hot' wire there (has power all of the time regardless of the ignition switch position), it's the red one, so you may want to disconnect the negative lead from the battery, tape the wires together, then put the battery cable back on and see if the problem goes away .

[nhmaf]

This pic has been posted several times before by others, but I had problems finding the threads, so here goes:



There is also a headlight relay as one of the relays on that rack - I can't recall if it is usually the inside or outside one, but given the state of your bike, I wouldn't count on it being in a specific location.

Attached is a color image wiring diagram from a Haynes manual that may help.  Both the Clymer manual and the Haynes manual have errors/omissions, but perhaps between the two you can figure out your relays and wires.

[Red_Hen]

I have a picture of a R65  that was shared by this group- maybe Mike Valenti - maybe from grumpy guy or

Anyway, if you look back at the picture I posted on first post today (scroll up) there is another electrical box on the picture I have that is not on my bike.  It is in the open space behind the tandem relays and in front of the tourquoise blue electrical box (may be for aftermarket hazard flashers).

I just returned from garage and used contact cleaner and high pressure air hose to clean connectors.  Still no progress.

Bob, are you saying I can hold all the wires together and maybe make a connection?  

I know there is a solution BUT and this is a puzzle - hopefully - with your help, I'll get lights camera action!

[Bob_Roller]

Yes, the switch connects all of these wires inside the switch through metal contacts, so you are doing the same thing, by touching all of the wires together without involving the switch itself .

I had a switch go bad on me, after removing the switch, you could hear the metal contacts rattling around inside the switch, when you shook it .

[nhmaf]

Ken - your pic looks like the others -  there should be a starter relay, a headlight relay, a flasher relay under there to the "left" of the metal gray box with red tape, which is the voltage regulator.   Some bikes may have a horn relay also installed (particularly if your bike has dual horns or horns other than the simple, single round beep-beep horn that came standard.   There is also the possibility of a larger box that looks sorta like a relay but which is a buzzer/turn signal reminder.

USe the colors of the wires that go to the relay connections to help you determine which is what.  Also, use the colored wiring schematic included above to see what wires in the ignition/light switch get connected together based on the position of the key in the switch - it's all there for example, in "park" position the red and the gray wires are connected in the switch, got it?

[Red_Hen]

I think so - another suggestion I received from MOA forum is that starter relay may be malfunctioning - not sure how to trace it but will play with it.  

I pulled off ground cluster of wires, used sandpaper to sand to ensure a good connection; have not checked handlebar shutoff (but even if it wasn't working, headlight should come on), red starter wire seems okay,  MUST BE THE STARTER RELAY

Another suggestion: "At this point, I'd start with the simple: disconnect the ground to the battery, locate the starter relay, carefully pry it out of its base with a flat screwdriver, and reinsert it. Do this two or three times. Re-connect battery and test the starter. If all is well, disconnect battery, unplug the starter relay (again) and give both male and female connections a good cleaning. Corrosion on the starter relay. End."

Here's a pic of 78-80

http://www.pbase.com/tomfarr/image/124474060/large

And here's 81-84

http://www.pbase.com/tomfarr/image/9...1/original.jpg

Another comment:  "From your description, it sounds like it's the starter relay. Pull it and check the terminal numbering for relay "D" here:"

http://www.airheads.org/index.php?op...show=1&start=2

Another suggestion: check the bottom of the all the relays to see if one of the wires has wiggled out. (DID THIS)

Also check the main ground wire that attaches to the frame. (DID THIS)

Turn the switch and get nothing...headlight is not on a fuse. turn signals, horn, stoplight are all on fuses. (NO HEADLIGHT)

When ALL of them are out, that means either ignition switch, right side handlebar cluster...or most likely a bad ground. Also check all the connections under the tank too.(RECHECKED)

Check the battery first but even with a low charge battery, you should be able to get a headlight. (BATTERY PUTTING OUT 13.5V)

Will continue to dig

[Red_Hen]

Okay - I removed all (3) relays and sanded the contact poles and there was a lot of corrosion.  I removed cap off of starter relay and everything inside looks brand new - no corrosion - same for others - headlight & turn signal.

Put them back and still only getting click from the turn signal relay.

Removed solenoid & starter wires off starter and used Dremel wire wheel to clean up connection.

Next, removed fuse harness on frame spine and did same process on the fuse contact poles.  With power, put my voltmeter and set it to "beep" to see if the circuit is complete.  On the gray wires, I got a beep.  On the side with the green wires, no beep.  Checked my battery and voltage is down to 6.5 volts so decided to put back on the charger and try again tomorrow.  

Will re-charge my batteries too!

I haven't gotten into the handlebar shutoff switch yet - is there anyway to bypass this circuit - I don't think simply unplugging it will do it.

If there's anything else to try, I'm open to suggestions.  Maybe a new wiring harness?  It's gotta be something simple.  I'm cleaning all the electrical contacts during this restoration process.

[Bob_Roller]

If you follow the wire bundle from the kill switch and start switch, there should be a connector I'm guessing around where all of the wire bundles come form the other handle bar .

You're looking for a connector with green wire with a blue spiral band, a green wire, a blue wire with a yellow spiral band, there are multiple wires of the same color coming out of both sides of the connector .

You can place a jumper wire across the green/blue wire to the green wire, that will complete the circuit for the kill switch, do this on the 'bike' side of the connector, not the handle bar side .

If you place a jumper wire across the green/blue wire and the blue/yellow wire, you will be bypassing the starter switch, so as soon as you touch the wires, the starter may rotate, don't be surprised if you get some sparking, nothing to be concerned about, as long as you don't have an explosive atmosphere around you, it's only 12 volts DC, it won't harm you .

[Red_Hen]

I'm either getting close or running out of bullets.

This morning, I jumped all the wires that go on the ignition switch and still just a "click" from the headlight relay.

I removed the handlebar housing and the only suspect I see is a bunch of dust balls on the turn signal switch.  Will blow out with compressed air later today and spray some contact cleaner.  Still, don't think that's the culprit.

It's gotta be something real simple.

I'll let you know when I get to the bottom of this.

Could it be a diode board issue?  From what I've read I don't think that would prevent circuits from powering up before starting bike.

I also need to confirm bike is in neutral, although we have the clutch bungeed in the open position.

[Mike V]

Ken,

Have you tried what Bob proposed? Is your starter working? Tried jumping directly to the solenoid/starter? Have you tried tracing things with a test light?  I hate electrical problems, and I suck at diagnosing them.

[Red_Hen]

Hi Mike,

Not yet - If it were a test, I'd get a D or D- but I'm trying to learn!

[Bob_Roller]

Have you had the top cover on the engine off yet .

There's an electrical connection on the starter, the positive cable from the battery, goes to the starter, the output lead from the alternator also goes to this same threaded stud on the starter .

If there is corrosion on this connection, you're entire electrical system may not work, or not work very well .

Just a wild guess, it's hidden and forgotten about .

[Mike V]

Ken,

There's also a 2 or 3 prong connector from the engine cover (I think), if that connection is not working - nothing else will.

Help me out here Bob  

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