Removing the exhaust system the easiest way

[suecanada]

Just wondering if anyone has figured out an easier way to take off the full exhaust system without having to separate the two crossover pipes which are pretty hard to get off on LRB?
I actually got my full exhaust system OFF by just dropping it down under the bike with the help of gravity and much twisting and fussing and sliding it from under the bike by leaning the bike one way or the other so the pipe could clear each centrestand foot in turn. BUT there is no way I can get it back ON without separating the two sides by removing the crossover in the front and rear. Maybe it is because I have it all painted and looking nice that the turning and manoeuvering to get it back on leaves too many scratches. When I took it off I was not concerned about the paint.

I did have lots of anti-seize on the joints but the front header pipes have been on longer than the mufflers. Paint-in-place treatment for a year or two on the headers. I have always had a hard time figuring out an easy way to get the headers off by oneself. Always thought a sky-hook was needed to lift up the bike and the headers would just fall down and off!!! The centrestand mounting bolts protrude enough to be in the way and the sidestand is a pain and in combination one can't slide the whole unit forward enough to clear the engine guards to reach the cylinder holes. It is a trial and error thing.....but does it not seem logical (women's logic anyway) that if the headers withtheir crossovers attached fell down together ONE TIME that it should go UP together somehow too???

Am I asking too much of the laws of nature? :-?
Awww...just take the crossovers off, for pete's sake, right? LOTS and lots of anti-seize!

Sue, who is all fired up about Spring now and apologizes for being absent, upside down in a snowdrift somewhere lately.

[Landlubber]

Sue,

If they joiner is really on that hard that you feel it impossible to remove, then hit it with an oxy acetylene torch, that will burn out the crap, and the thing will fall off, no worries.

If you do not have such set, then take your pipes to any workshop, they will do it for you easily.

[Bob_Roller]

The first time I took the exhaust system off for a timing chain replacement, I had to cut slots in both cross over tubes, then get a regular screwdriver in the slots to get the two pipes apart .

I would try the torch method before resorting to cutting the cross over pipes .

Sometimes there's just no 'delicate' way to get an old exhaust system apart .

[nhmaf]

LAst time I was trying to get the headers off Tillie I ended up breaking one of the screw-bosses that tighten over the split ends on the cross-over pipe with a large screwdriver.  The headers on these painted systems really seem to like to rust together, even without paint getting into the seams.  I can easily get the mufflers off, so if I had to completely remove the exhaust system I think that I'[d resort to a similar process as Sue's, and then use a propane torch to heat and then a mallet&woodblock to tap the cross-over pipe off the headers.  

[bruce_launceston]

I have no trouble because when I made a new set of headers I ditched both balance tubes.

The headers are easy to make or get made as they are standard exhaust tubing diameter.
Off the shelf bends fitted as well, a 180 degree bend on the right side and 2 / 90 degree bends for the left side (which has a slightly tighter radius bend).
Get the muffler shop to put a slight bend in the end of two straight sections where they sweep up to the mufflers, weld them all together to match your existing headers, paint them or chrome them and you have a perfectly good set of headers for not much money at all.

I have been riding my LS for about 20 years with these headers and no balance tubes and I have no complaints about power or torque.

My other 'Tip of the Day' is to always assemble slip joints in exhaust systems with silicone sealant. It won't burn out and it stops the pipes rusting together making them much easier to get apart (as well as sealing them so they don't leak). I have been doing this on bike and car exhaust systems for many years.

[Semper Gumby]

The crossover on my 1980 has never been apart!  There were bolts to hold it in place but they and the mounts are gone.  Thank goodness I have only one crossover.

(Hi Sue!)

[montmil]

For my timing chain chore, I had to saw off one exhaust header nut.

The entire exhaust system, sans mufflers, was removed as one piece. Problems mentioned in above posts were all present on the exhaust: broken pinch bolt tabs, serious rust bonding, etc.

A Rubic's Cube chore, for sure, but the entire system remained as one piece. Helps to have an assistant tilt the bike as needed. I was not so fortunate.

I did research new exhaust headers. My contorted labor was far less expensive.

Monte

[suecanada]

When Nhmaf mentioned snapping off one of those crossover nut bosses getting his off, I said yup...that is what I was trying to avoid as i had to get it welded back on. I think I may try the silicone sealant trick...sounds like a plan. Makes me feel slightly better (misery likes company) to read how so many of us have had a "time" getting these things off!!

We used a bottle jack to separate the crossover that stuck. Remember I already had gotten the headers off. The trouble was getting them back on...so having given up completely on ever getting the headers back on without getting the crossovers off, Derek helped by setting up the headers in the vice and having the bottle jack sitting on the vice on top and expanding the jacks! That broke the crossovers free with the help of a rubber mallet and voila!!

So seems to be some scientific logic here blown out the window...ergo "what goes down does NOT necessarily go up!"

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I had not heard of silicone sealant, before.  I had no idea there were high-temp applications:

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-silicone-sealant.htm

I think I'll get some for my brand new (single cross-over) headers.


Nice to hear from you, Sue.  And this is not the first time you have written on this subject!  

That's why I like having the single cross-over.  But, as Bruce points out, it could be a non-issue.

[Darwin_R65]

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Copper_Maximum_Temperature_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

the above link is what the local exhaust place recommended i use on my bike.

John

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Copper_Maximum_Temperature_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

the above link is what the local exhaust place recommended i use on my bike.

John

I have seen that on the shelves.  Thanks John!

[Darwin_R65]

a bottle jack.   reinforces the old saying
"If force doesn't work, you're not using enough."

[suecanada]

I am still working at getting this system back on and will be using silicone sealant when I do. Now I had to go at those crossover joints again and get more than 2 free from the header pipes. One problem with my first attempt was that I had the two crossovers on the headers but Not coming off the same side. This does not work for me!! So now 3 crossover joints have been worked free and I hope that will do the trick. I am going out now to see if I get lucky and the headers go back on with 3 of the 4 crossover joints separated. If that doesn't work I gotta figure out how the get the 4th stubborn one separated and off too. Anti-seize seems to get everywhere but I suppose so will that silicone sealant if I am not careful. So advice...paint the &^$#@!* headers while on the bike, however you can!!!!. The mufflers come off so easily that one can make them so beautiful that no one even notices the headers!!  Yeeesh!! I am too old for this!

 [smiley=wall.gif] [smiley=wall.gif]

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Do you have heat in the Brooom Closet?  It can't be that warm up there, yet?  It is just now getting [real] nice, but I am suspicious - it is still March....

I am also paranoid, because I have a weeks vacation coming at the end of the month, and I'm afeared she will be going out like a lion!

But I do have heat for the garage (now), if I need it.

[caci]

I am still working at getting this system back on and will be using silicone sealant when I do. Now I had to go at those crossover joints again and get more than 2 free from the header pipes. One problem with my first attempt was that I had the two crossovers on the headers but Not coming off the same side. This does not work for me!! So now 3 crossover joints have been worked free and I hope that will do the trick. I am going out now to see if I get lucky and the headers go back on with 3 of the 4 crossover joints separated. If that doesn't work I gotta figure out how the get the 4th stubborn one separated and off too. Anti-seize seems to get everywhere but I suppose so will that silicone sealant if I am not careful. So advice...paint the &^$#@!* headers while on the bike, however you can!!!!. The mufflers come off so easily that one can make them so beautiful that no one even notices the headers!!  Yeeesh!! I am too old for this!

 [smiley=wall.gif] [smiley=wall.gif]

Sue,

I'm joining this thread pretty late.  I had a heck of a time removing my LS exhaust.  I lost my patience and cut the crossovers.  They were SOOO stuck that I ended up crushing them in a large vise and twisting the headers loose.

Obviously, you are in a little bit better shape, as you have been able to remove all but 1 joint.

When I reassembled the system, I used a strap wrench like the one to position the crossovers:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_253674-16878-50540_4294857606_4294937087?productId=1072405&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_Ratchets%2B_4294857606_4294937087_

Using the large one, you can get about 3 wraps around the pipe and get quite a bit of grip - if you're careful, you might be able to break it loose, without damage.

I used this same technique to remove the fork tubes from the tripleclamp.

Chris