Plugging air injection system ports.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Yeah, I was about to split this off to 'Chat'......

[montmil]

As usual, the Snowbum site has an extensive treatise on the removal of the misnamed "air injection system"... which is really not.

My 81 has a crude but effective method of hardware elimination; very short lengths of the metal piping near the system's anchor nut at the head are simply welded shut. At the head, the original hardware is retained.

The '83 still has the Mickey Mouse gear but it, too, will soon be added to the trash can.

Monte

[Justin B.]

I torque the crap out of 'em with a new crush washer - never barfed one.  Constellation, I did have a Nissan pickup that barfed the center out of a Bosch Platinum spark plug!  Made a helluva racket until I got home...

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I had a Mazda 323 that spit a spark plug once.  Hell of a racket, and a drastic reduction in power!

[Ironhead2]

So what is the preferred method to plug the hole? In Rob's picture it looks like just an allen head cap screw? Anyone know what size? Thx

[nhmaf]

It is a metric drain plug from an oilhead model engine - a perfect fit for this application and used by most people who plug these ports.

[Semper Gumby]

<snip> Now the question:
How much should I torque the plug so it doesn't fall out.  I assume that because of the temperature, Loc-Tite won't help.

To answer your question Steve...The plug is about the same size as a Spark plug so I think you are safe with about 20 nm (not ft-lbs) on your torque wrench.  As to which lock tite you should use..doesn't Locktite have a website.  I would check there or go to NAPA and ask.

Good luck.

BTW - I didn't use Locktite on mine when I did it 5 years ago...just the crush washer.

Take your pick from here...
http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_us/hs.xsl/product-search-1554.htm?param1=subsubapplicationRedDotUID=|subapplicationRedDotUID=00000002IP|applicationRedDotUID=0000000276|advanced=|brandRedDotUID=________________0000000389|pageIndex=0|action=search|

[Justin B.]

It's an Oilhead drain plug and crush washer.  Torque it real good and then give it another grunt after a heat-cycle and you should be good.

[Ed Miller]

I didn't see it mentioned, but the rubber cover for the timing opening will also fit to plug the two holes in the airbox that remain after removal of that end of the plumbing.  I used black silicone to seal them in place.  Ted Porter's Beemershop sells a kit with the oilhead drain plugs and the timing covers for very little money.

[Semper Gumby]

Is that the one with the magnetic plug for the main engine oil.  Never understood why the r65 didn't have this...

[Ed Miller]

I don't think so, tho he may sell that separately.  The kit I'm talking about is just to plug up the emissions plumbing.  

[Scooter_Addict]

I have a 1987 R65 that still has the air-injection system intact. Should I leave it on, or do I take it off. Is there a performance advantage or is it just to shed some pounds off the bike?? Any fuel mileage advantage?  [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif]

[Bob_Roller]

You will not gain any performance or fuel mileage .

All the system does, is introduce additional air into the exhaust, to continue burning any fuel that remains in the exhaust gas, before exiting the exhaust system .

[Semper Gumby]

I pulled mine on my 1980 because it made an anoying popping sound which I could not stand.  Still have the bits though...

[nhmaf]

If the 'snorkel' valves in the airbox start getting gummed up or generally just not opening/closing properly, this will cause popping (esp. under deceleration) as they are supposed to close and not push more air into the exhaust under those conditions.. but when they do, the air does ignite the richer gas mixture still in the exhaust stream.   I am going to leave mine on until they start having this issue before removing.