Do I need to rebuild my bean can?

[Red_Hen]

Hi Gang:

Saw the post about replacing Halll sensor on Beancan.  My R65LS project is coming along and about the only thing not overhauled is the beancan.

Would it behoove me to buy a new Hall sensor and take it apart (saw the thread on how to do it) for good measure?

I'd hate to be riding down the road and have it suddenly go out and have the bike stop running.

Gut level says YES, do it!

Your thoughts?

[montmil]

My experience has been that a brand new Hall sensor can fail just as easily as an OEM of any age. My advice would be, don't do it.

You could disassemble the can, clean and buff up everything, lube the advance weight pivots and ride happy. The upside to this is you'll learn a new DIY skill while confirming all's good.

This advice falls neatly into the If It Ain't Broke school of thought.

[the_admiral]

quite agree monti,leave well alone,the only time i had a sensor go down was when i nipped the bean can lead in the front casing and shorted it out,they are really quite reliable otherwise

[Bob_Roller]

I agree, that if it isn't broken, don't mess with it !!

I have an '81 R65, 83,000 miles, and the bike has lived in Phoenix the last 17 years, I still have the original sensor .

But I think that a good cleaning and lubrication of the ignition centrifugal advance mechanism, would not be a bad thing .

Having a spare sensor around, might be a good idea, they are about $15US, plus shipping .

[Red_Hen]

Thanks, guys!

The odo on mine says 20k - what's involved to lube-ing the parts - just remove the cap and spray with??? or more involved?  

[Bob_Roller]

More involved, a couple of members here have posted a step by step procedure on the disassembly, and reassembly of the unit, do a search here, and see what you find .

[montmil]

... i had a sensor go down was when i nipped the bean can lead in the front casing and shorted it out...

[smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]That's EXACTLY why I replaced my last Hall sensor! Watch that little wire loom whenever you're replaced the engine front cover.   Monte

Some helpful links:

http://robfrankham.co.uk/bike/bike_index.htm

http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/auto_advance/index.html

[Red_Hen]

Thanks, much.

Was thinking - it is a big deal just to pull the bean can off my bike (two allen screws) w/out messing up existing adjustments and then inspecting it?  I'm not seeing the lubrication points and did a "bean can" search on the site.  

I'll heed your advice about not messing with it unless I see it's not working.  Thanks.

[montmil]

Ken, Two screws and a harness disconnect. The offset drive "dogs" prevent installing the can incorrectly.
You will need to re-time the engine after pulling the bean can. Most peeps use a marker of some sort to help reposition the can for install. Better a wee bit retarded -Yes, I know that's no longer a PC word, according to some "PC experts"- on the initial position than too far advanced. The engine will run with the can in just about any position. You just may not like the idle rpms...

Did you check out the posted links? They are golden.

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

There's a complete guide to disassembling cleaning, sensor replacement, and reassembly, on the R65 Technical FAQ/Procedures section, next to last subject on the first page .

Use a scribe, to mark the engine case, and the 'bean can' before removal, most of the time you can get away without adjusting the timing afterwards .

[steve hawkins]

Alteratively you can spray a good penetrating oil in there and leave it at that.

Only go in there if you need to - i.e. it is not working or you can actually see corrosion etc.  If she is clean, then just spay a bit of light oil in there and put it back on.

Steve H (lazy as well as cheap)

[Red_Hen]

Sounds good - the penetrating oil route.  Maybe I'll use the PB Buster? or would WD or Silicone spray be better?

[Bob_Roller]

Don't use WD40, as it has a tendency to turn into a varnish like material after long exposure to heat .