Pulse-Air System???

[Justin B.]

The clue to this is in the statement, "...replaced my missing vacuum take-off hootus so I could seal that up..."  Basically he plugged a vacuum leak which caused the rpm to drop.

[NC Steve]

So, nhmaf & Justin, am I safe to raise the idle up by dialing in the throttle cable butterfly screws, or do I need to go thru the whole tune & rebalance route?
Keep in mind that it ran well with or without the small vacuum leak created by the missing vacuum takeoff, and I'm able to prevent it from stalling now by some careful throttle management at low speed. I'd just like to prevent a 35 mile trip to the shop to get the carbs balanced, if possible, but also obviously don't want to burn any valves up by running too lean.
Thanks again for your help, guys... [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[nhmaf]

IMHO,  It would be best to go through and retune and rebalance.  You can't be sure that one carb/side was
more affected than the other due to the location of the "leak" you stopped.  But, if you don't have to turn the
screws much, and if you have a "feel" for when the cylinders are both running smoothly you can
probably get close through just adjusting the screws carefully and listening.  I'm not sure how much you've
done this sort of thing before.  If you do have access to some carb stix or similar gauges for
balancing, it wouldn't be hard to do a quick check to see that they are both in the same positions relative
to each other, after turning the butterfly screws to raise the idle to around 1000 rpm or so.   Be sure
that things are well warmed up before you adjust them !

I certainly don't consider myself an expert in this area - Justin or others may have differing opinions.