A bit late in the game, if you want to accomplish this, in the next 4 days .
If you have the transmission removed, it's only 6 bolts to remove the clutch assembly, and 5 more bolts, to remove the clutch 'carrier'/ flywheel, then you have access to replace the rear main seal and oil pump cover o-ring .
Blocking the crankshaft at the alternator rotor bolt, to prevent it from moving, and dislodging a crankshaft thrust washer, is recommended before removing the 'clutch carrier'/flywheel .
You can get a good look at the clutch disc itself, and see how worn it is .
When you get to the clutch arm on the back of the transmission, remove the clamp holding the rubber boot to the transmission case first, if you remove the pivot bolt from the arm first, a spring in the boot area will push the boot back, and most likely tear it, if it is an old boot .
The rear drive, if you have the cover off for the paper gasket replacement, replace the o-rings on the rear brake shaft, a common area for leakage to occur .
You could remove the rear brake pedal, clean and lube the bearing surface with a good grease .
With the transmission out, I would consider replacing the neutral switch, and have a look at the neutral switch wiring, my bet is, that the insulation is brittle, make up a new harness with small gauge wire, and heat-shrink tubing .
Check your replacement boot that covers the u-joint, it should have the word OBEN molded into it, that goes on top .
The clamps that secure the u-joint boot, have a channel shaped piece of metal tack welded to one side of the clamp, it bridges the gap between the two 'ears' of the clamp, if that piece is missing, the boot will leak, no matter how much you tighten the clamp .
