R65LS Restoration Project - Progress & Questions

[Red_Hen]

Good Morning,

Progress continues - at a slow pace.  Pics below show transmission, swing arm and new shocks installed.

I'm having some challenges re-installing the wiring harness - I took pics but none from the top down - I do know parts of the harness attach to the top round frame.  If anyone has any good pics you can email that would be greatly appreciated - kentuvman@gmail.com

The bike did not have a brake pedal - I purchased one from Mike at Airhead Salvage - I had trouble figuring out how to install it but I'm starting too think it installs from inside-out.  If you can tell me if this is the right bushing that goes with the pedal, would be great - the realoem website shows a different configuration - it shows an M8 bolt and bushing.  

I know the plastic piece came off the frame but not sure where it goes. The pic of the plastic piece is behind the brake pedal shot. Finally, there are two brackets - I think the one with 3 holes is for the exhaust - mine came with a Lufmeister 2 into 1 system.  

I do have the Clymer Big Book but it does not have good pics of what I'm trying to understand.  Here's the link showing my pictures.  Thanks as always!

http://kentuvman.shutterfly.com/

[Mike V]

Here you go Ken,

Hopefully this will help, there's also some good pictures previously posted of the electrics. Some of the guys sent me some great photos helping me out when I was in the wire loom process. If this link doesn't help - you may search the archives. Or, I'm sure you'll get some additional replies. Let me know if this helps.

http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq8/gruntyman66/81%20R650%20Restoration/Electrics/?albumview=grid

Mike V.

[Red_Hen]

Mike - you are amazing!  Thanks so much!  These pictures will save a lot of time figuring out the wiring details - I'm going to get prints made!

Sorry to say, the exhaust nut is too far stripped out to make it work.  Thanks for your kindness in sending it my way - it will become a paperweight for my desk.

Happy Thanksgiving & thanks for giving!

Ken

[Mike V]

Ken,
More than happy to help out. Sorry the exhaust nut didn't work out. I was hoping it may have enough bite to work for you. Should make for a nice desktop ornament.

Best of luck with the rebuild. I'm almost there with mine, maybe a Christmas morning ride!

Mike V.

[Red_Hen]

Forgot to add the latest picture of progress made - if any of you can confirm if the tapered bolt that goes through the brake pedal is correct, would be appreciated.  Not sure if it's the correct piece.

http://kentuvman.shutterfly.com/

Thanks much & Happy Thanksgiving!

[marcmax]

Ken,

The pictures of your brake pedal don't look like the one on my LS. I have an 82 and an 84 and both have the same style pedal that looks substantially different from yours. It installs into a pocket from the bottom of the frame with a single through bolt and nut. These pics are small but I can send you larger if you need a better view.

[Red_Hen]

It does look different - I'll have to copy your pics and see if Mike at airhead salvage has one like this.  thanks for sharing.

[nhmaf]

The pedal on my 1982 LS looks similar to those last photos from marcmax - I was going to try to get my camera working again but may not be successful until after turkey-day.

[montmil]

Ken,  If you haven't been introduced to the guys at RePsycle BMW in Ohio http://re-psycle.com/, check them out. I have never failed to find a quality used or new part from these folks. Call their landline as they do not have an extensive website. Mark or Marco will get you squared away.   Monte

[marcmax]

If you haven't found one yet, here ya go.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-R65-R75-82-BRAKE-PEDAL-PEG-z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4395aa1082QQitemZ290273759362QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[proctorls]

Ken,

I dropped you a note about your wiring, mentioning the spiral-wrap nylon stuff.  What I really dropped was the ball.

As I thought more about it, though, and remembered my own recent resto, I realized  there were a few more things that would be good to know, and do, at this stage of your project.  I hope I don't have to tell you to go slow.  A little extra time spent in these early stages will save untold aggrivation down the road.
So, I'll try not to be too wordy.    
I told you I winged it on my wiring.  This isn't nearly true.  I spent hours on it, peeling off the old cloth (friction) tape for starters.  You  may be tempted to leave well-enough alone, but I promise you, when you see how much grit and crud comes out from between your wires, you'll be glad you did it.  Think of each grain of grit as a micro razor blade and imagine what that will do to plastic insulation.
This will also give you a chance to inspect every inch of the harness wiring.  Chaffed spots can be repaired with shrink tubing (unlike duct tape, shrink tubing is magic stuff) if you can get to the bad spot with the right-sized tubing, and NONE of the wire strands are broken.  None of mine were. 8-)

I'm sure someone on this BB has commented at length on the many virtues and uses of shrink tubing, but let me say that shrink tubing is everything electrical tape wants to be and isn't.  If you don't already know about it, find out.

Okay, you've stripped and cleaned the harness, paying attention, of course, to  the spacing and layout.  Pictures are a good idea, as well as notes and drawings.  At this point, you can tie the harness in approx. the right layout with thin zip-ties.

I'm almost out of breath (and space), and I haven't really gotten started.  I still need to tell you about connectors, which will be a whole 'nother thing.
Steve

[proctorls]

Ken,

Where were we?  Oh yeah, connectors.  These are the nerve synapses of your bike.  There are two bad things that can happen: Loose connections, and corrosion. Corrosion is relatively easy to spot:  It's green.  Not always - sometimes it's black, but on most electrical stuff with copper in it, if it's green and it isn't color- coded insulation, it's bad news.    

As long as the physical shape of the prong or socket is intact, and none of the wire strands are eaten off, you can salvage most minor cases of corrosion.  Steel wool, emery paper, jewlers' files,  sheet rock knives, I've used them all.  A can of contact cleaner or alcohol is good for final cleanup, but don't depend on any chemical to substitute for diligent elbow grease.  And don't forget the plastic bits, too.  Corrosion can lead to tracking across insulators and more problems.

Things like the foot-brake switch, the kill switch, the headlight switch - these can be taken apart and degreased and/or burnished, which is just exactly what it sounds like.  Use fine crocus cloth.  You can lubricate the mechanical bits of switches with any good lubricant, but the actual contacts require special contact lube.  I generally don't use it.

One last thing and then I'll get off.  Somewhere back there I mentioned loose connections.  In a heavy-current circuit like a headlight or a starter solenoid, a loose connection will get hot, and that can cause anything from a minor discoloration to serious charring of the shell and possibly of other components, too.  Obviously, if there's damage, you'll have to replace the connector.   This may involve crimping (special tools) or soldering (special skills).  But MOST loose connections are EASY to fix.  You can usually SQUEEZE or EXPAND one component or the other until the original fit is obtained.  Electrical plugs should be a little hard to put on.  Just make sure all the pins are tight. 8-)

Invest in a meter.  Future post:  using a DMM

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Forgot to add the latest picture of progress made - if any of you can confirm if the tapered bolt that goes through the brake pedal is correct, would be appreciated.  Not sure if it's the correct piece.

http://kentuvman.shutterfly.com/

I thought I had seen one like yours, before, Ken.  I just found one on eBay (lousy picture).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-82-R100-RT-BRAKE-PEDAL-REAR-PARTING-BIKE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ee5d0c125QQitemZ270143635749QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

But like the other guys, mine is not like yours...

(and don't bother the eBay seller with any questions - their name says it all.  (I have bought from them, before.  They are good people, just not BMW folk.))

[Red_Hen]

Hi Guys - I've been out of the loop and away from the bike for a couple weeks - Thanksgiving, Work, Traveling - anyway - many thanks for your comments.  What a GREAT forum!

Marc kindly sent me images of the correct brake pedal & I did see them on ebay as well - I bought my missing parts - clutch pedal, airbox and brake pedal from Mike @ Airhead Salvage.  I emailed Mike and he apologized & said he's sending me the right pedal. I googled the serial # on the pedal I have and it turns out to be a brake pedal for an R90.

I'm taking it real slow - slower than I'd like but I hope to spend some time when life slows down in December.  
I've become friendly with Mike Valenti - we're around the same age & place with restoring R65's - how cool is that?  I did not put the grease film on the clutch piece & tranny is back in place so not going to pull it out.  Mike is really doing an amazing job putting his back together.  

I need to order throttle, choke & clutch cables from the dealer in England (brain dead for the name). The pictures Mike sent of the wiring harness will really help a lot.  
Any suggestions on the following needed for my money pit? Brand of tires & where to buy; kit to rebuild front calipers & brand of brake pads to buy; new brake lines (planning to order from Spiegler - probably Red to go with my LS color scheme); probably Westco battery; Comfortable Handgrips? Willl the electrical system power a Stebel Air horn? Have on my K75 & F50 - enough juice for driving lights? Doubit it.  Anyway - having fun!  

[drewboid]

NO!!! - you don't want to start another tire thread!!!

But you did so here goes:
Tires - Bridgestone BT45s
Grips - Gran Turismo (air filled and plump)
Electrical system should power an air horn but an upgrade to Omega or Enduralast 400 watt systems will take care of heated gear and running lights too.
Just my opinion - YMMV