R65 bing carburator standard idle jet

[nhmaf]

The timing marks are best seen with a bright timing light and a darkened garage - they should be pretty stable too - otherwise there may possibly be a worn timing chain/gear issue.   All these bikes will puff a bit of oil out, but if the valve guides or piston rings aren't sealing well it can become significantly worse.   As you had tired rings in that cylinder to start with, that could certainly have puffed oil up into the airbox, and if the new rings aren't seating yet, it could also contribute more oil getting down into the carbs.   I'd take off the airfilter and clean out the bottom of the airbox - you might find a surprising amount of oil in there.  Clean that out first so you know where you're starting from.

[montmil]

If the timing marks "stutter" when hit with the timing light, the timing chain is quite likely worn out. This info has been discussed on Snowbum's site and a couple other individual's BMW web sites.

The timing marks should be clear and "frozen" in position by the bulb's flash. I confirmed this on my '81 prior to the timing chain and related bits being replaced.

Monte

[Adamastor]

If the timing marks "stutter" when hit with the timing light, the timing chain is quite likely worn out. This info has been discussed on Snowbum's site and a couple other individual's BMW web sites.

The timing marks should be clear and "frozen" in position by the bulb's flash. I confirmed this on my '81 prior to the timing chain and related bits being replaced.

Monte

That's what I am afraid of... this R65 looked great, but it seems almost everything needs some work.

Anyway, tomorrow I will try to paint a white line and try to see it in focus. If I cant,  I will have to probably replace the chain.... It seems the work on this bike never ends...

Q: With a worn chain and/or sprockets should I be able to idle and run well? Apart from the left side plug fouling, she drives well and can sustain a very good stable idle at about 1.100rpm.
Q: Can the double image be a fault on the bean can? (advance mechanism stuck or something like that...)

[montmil]

If the timing marks "stutter" when hit with the timing light, the timing chain is quite likely worn out. This info has been discussed on Snowbum's site and a couple other individual's BMW web sites.

The timing marks should be clear and "frozen" in position by the bulb's flash. I confirmed this on my '81 prior to the timing chain and related bits being replaced.

Monte

...I will try to paint a white line and try to see it in focus.

Q: With a worn chain and/or sprockets should I be able to idle and run well?...
Q: Can the double image be a fault on the bean can? (advance mechanism stuck or something like that...)

Use a cotton swab (Q-Tip here in USA) to clean off any oil or greasy stuff on the stamped timing marks. Dab white paint on and into the stamped letters, wait a moment and then wipe off the excess leaving the white paint down in the stampings. Small fingers help  

Q#1:  Often, yes. But eventually, you'll begin heading very harsh "bones" rattling.

Q#2:  Not really likely.

[Adamastor]

Hi there! I am back from the garage... I spent most the time finishing the light / instruments bracket exchange. Now it looks like a R65 not a weird franken-R65 (It had the RT front light bracket).
I had forgotten where some electric wires did connect to (no photos... I should never forget to use the camera before disassembly) and also had to open the brake system to pass a cable, etc etc etc
I also fixed the clutch switch... I was not able to start the bike in gear, now I can

After spending all this time I only got the chance to paint the slow and fast marks on the flywheel to check it with the light gun again.
This seems really strange, but I did manage to see the mark, I managed to align it (it is a bit blured) at idle, but with the bean can almost on the maximum counter-clockwise position.
The next weird thing I noticed, was that as I acelerated from what I have read on the web, It was supposed to change from one mark to the other, right? I saw no change.

Looks like my bean can needs some work, right?
- From the above could it be that the advancing system is not working?
- If so it could still be possible to ride the bike reasonably well (like I have been doing)?
- Could this justify why I only see the mark with the bean can almost fully counter-clockwise? (could not be certain about what mark I was looking at, since both marks were painted white, and the image is too fuzzy to read the letters)

My back is aching me, but these doubts harm me even more eheh...

Once again thank you all for the advices and general help

[montmil]

Moving the bean can to adjust the timing requires a clockwise rotation of the can to retard the timing and a counter-clockwise rotation to advance the timing. The rotation is determined while looking straight on at the can from the front of the bike.

Riding the bike with a retarded ignition will not hurt a thing... nothing at all. You will perhaps notice less performance in the higher rpm range. No biggie. This is far better than having the ignition too far advanced and risk detonation and engine damage.

Appears you are getting the bike in good condition what with all the small, frustrating issues being handled. People will be calling on you for assistance before much longer!

If the timing marks fail to move to the advance mark, then yes, perhaps the advance mechanism may need attention. It is a completely  mechanical system composed of bob weights and small springs. As rpms increase, the weights swing outward due to centrifugal forces. Small nylon "feet" should slide across a metal plate and return to a retard position as rpms decrease.

Believe the inspection, cleaning and lube technique has been discussed... here on this thread?

Monte

[Adamastor]

If the timing marks fail to move to the advance mark, then yes, perhaps the advance mechanism may need attention. It is a completely  mechanical system composed of bob weights and small springs. As rpms increase, the weights swing outward due to centrifugal forces. Small nylon "feet" should slide across a metal plate and return to a retard position as rpms decrease.

Believe the inspection, cleaning and lube technique has been discussed... here on this thread?

Monte

Just took off the bean can, looking through the inspection windows, I noticed that what was supposed to move is not moving. I need to use a screwdriver to make it move and it makes quite a bit of resistance. It also looks a bit rusty inside...
This needs to be cleaned and lubed...

the two top bolts head are not very good.. lets hope I can take them off with no stress...

I guess when I finish the work on my R65 I will know a bit of everything on it... since everything looks like it needs some work.
This is a former police force bike, and I am starting to believe their mechanics are not that good. I am amazed I still have splines... ehe (not everything has to be bad)

[montmil]

Do not remove the two machine screws holding the round cover plate to the bean can body until you read and understand the following article. There is nothing under the cap that you can service without further disassembly of the bean can. I urge extreme caution as other than the Hall sensor, there are no can replacement parts available.

http://maniac.deathstar.org/%7Eflash/ig_trig.html

Also open the link to the photos that accompany the article.

The bob weights and the shaft might be loosened with a heavy dose of PB Blaster, WD40 or similar. Drain out the excess after a good soaking. The advance mechanicals should rotate when you turn the drive dog on the cam end of the unit.

Danger, Will Robinson, Danger.
Old American TV show "Lost in Space"  

Monte

[Adamastor]

Monte, I had already been looking at that article and some others. The interior of my bean can was a bit deceiving, lots of rust and almost every screw was very hard to un-screw. Some of the contact plastic parts are worn, and the weights didn't move because their pivots (nylon + metal) were rusty/dirty. The springs look ok, but maybe they are relaxed... I don't know if when I found them they were stuck open or closed...  

I started taking photos but forgot to continue with them as the process got more absorbing...







Tomorrow morning I will test it on the bike, hopefully it will work much better than it was before (I had no advancing system).. but if I find a used bean can with a good price somewhere, I rather buy it...

One different question: Can I test if my chain is worn by rotating the engine by hand and looking at the shaft rotation (without the bean can)? Turning one side and them to the other and seeing if there is a lag and how many mm of lag it is?

[Adamastor]

(lots of grease on my keyboard... doing mechanics by the computer is way cool lol)  [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif]

[nhmaf]

That one is definitely a corroded can of beans!   Fingers crossed for you that a good cleaning will set it right - just make sure that it is fairly well dried out before you assemble and fire up the bike.

USed bean cans do come up for sale from time to time - just watch that things don't get ridiculous on the price.   I bought a used & functioning one for about $65, but sometimes (on ebay anyhow) things get out of control and people go berserk.    There is almost always someone parting out an airhead on ebay or IBMWR websites.

[Adamastor]

The bean can is "on bike" and now I have advance!

It took me ages to get the springs back into place because I didn't disassemble all the bean can. The pivot pin in the back was really hard to remove, so I opted to clean from above. The only down side was that I had to re-attach the springs by the small window of the can.
I am used to fix old film cameras, so patience and perseverance is something I have been learning to have ehehhe  

Done a very small test ride, and have just decided I will take it to work today.. I need to get those rings fully broken-in. Will try to know if there is any difference on the primary topic of this thread....

This bike has so many issues, that I jump from a problem to another and sometimes topics get out of topic... sorry for that and thanks for all the support

Sergio

[Barry]

Looks like your on top of it now Sergio. I've only ever dismantled a points type bean can and I found that back plate was crimped in place and had to be rotated to a certain position before it could be removed. It was a real struggle.

Hope it works ok for you today.

Danger, Will Robinson, Danger.
Old American TV show "Lost in Space"  

I remember that show Monte it would be a good sound bite to play just before delving into something you shouldn't

[Adamastor]

I managed to arrive well at work, the bike seems to be running well, but I still have to see if my left plug is still fouling (the problem that started this thread).
I will go for a little ride tomorrow morning and try to see if now the mixture screw does any effect or not..

[montmil]

You da man, Adamastor  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Gotta give you big props, amigo. In your situation, I may have already performed a Viking funeral for the bike. Good job.

Keep us posted. The sparkle plug issue may go away now the the beaner can is doing the right thing. I'd recommend you recheck the timing and see if your marks are steady. If they are, stop and enjoy an adult beverage... you just saved yourself a chore.

If you do ever replace the timing chain, contact Motobins. They offer a full replacement "kit" of timing chain bits you may not know you need!

Monte