Carburetor Tuning

[montmil]

Hey, Singh... Remember that perplexing rattling you were hearing? You said it was coming from the back portion of the engine? Yeah, that's the one...

That open-end wrench is likely the culprit.  

Nice photo and easy spline lube access. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Monte

[R65Singh]

Hey, Singh... Remember that perplexing rattling you were hearing? You said it was coming from the back portion of the engine? Yeah, that's the one...

That open-end wrench is likely the culprit.  

Nice photo and easy spline lube access. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Monte

Good observation Monte... .  I have the wrench but now I know where my #10 socket is   .
Singh

[Semper Gumby]

Hey Crossrodes,

Your clutch doesn't look anything like Sings clutch.  He has the 81 and on light weight clutch.

Your 1979 has the the heavy flywheel clutch.  You probably have a faint "0" for topdead center.  It will be just to the left of the teeth that the starter engages on when you look through the timing hole.  I will try to get some pics of my 1980 marks for idle and fast as I have the same flywheel as you.

TTFN,

[Crossrodes]

I think you are right Semper.  I did find the 0 when I was setting the valves...wasn't able to find the other marks though.  Apart from my bike being a different year from Singh's it was also built for and sold in the German market and later imported into Canada.  So from time to time I find things that are different from the US models.  I would suspect the flywheel/timing marks would be the same though.

Looking forward to seeing your pics if you can get them...If not can you tell me how far away the other timing marks are from the 0?

[Semper Gumby]

Crossrodes,

I think the timing marks are drilled holes on the 1979 like my 1980.  The "fast" mark should have a faint "Z" stamped next to it then comes the slow mark and then the Faint "0" for top dead center.  The holes look like 1/8" (?) drilled to a depth of 3mm just to the left off the starter teeth in hte meet of the flywheel.  I marked mine with some white out to make them easier to see in the strobe.  The reason I'm a bit vague is that I have the Omega ignition and on my 1980 and as a result I don't have to reset it every 5k miles.  It stays put.

I think the slow hole is at 6 degrees BTDC and the fast is at 32 degrees BTDC.

It rainy and cold in Atlanta (AGAIN) but I do need to change the oil and start the service.  Pics to come soon.

[Crossrodes]

Thanks Bill.  I do recall seeing those drilled indentations.  I'll check those closely when I get a chance (I have about 6 other projects on the go right now...who said retirement is boring).

I'll let you know how it turns out.

PS: There was nothing in my Clymer manual indicating those were the timing marks.  That's why this board is so helpful.

[Crossrodes]

Semper Gumby, today I had some time to play with the timing using the drilled indentations.  My "timing by ear" exercise that I had done earlier was pretty close but not dead on.  So I re-timed the bike and it is now right on both timing marks.  

After that I re-tuned the carbs and she seems to be running very nicely at idle.  It's raining and cold today so I'm not going out for a  ride but tomorrow looks promising so I'll see how she idles after some highway riding hopefully.

Thanks again for the info.

[Semper Gumby]

<snip>
PS: There was nothing in my Clymer manual indicating those were the timing marks.  <snip>

Yeah the Clymer folks and the BMW folks seem to have left the 1979 and 1980 R65 information up on a dusty shelf somewheres.  When it comes time to take your clutch apart, post here first so we can let you know what the torque is for the SMALLER 6mm bolts that hold the clutch together that NOBODY seems to remember.

Oh I forgot to mention that there is a small knotch on the left hand side of the timing hole that the timing marks should line up with.  I guess that is the fine adjustment from the factory.

Knowlege hard won,
would be a sin not to pass on.

When I was using the beancan for ignition I would almost runout of the adjustment range on the clockwise side.  This may be due to a change in the points design from when it was new.

TTFN,

[Semper Gumby]

Wow boy am I disremebering.  The teeth for the starter are on the left.  The "Z" comes first then the timing "hole" maybe 1/2 a mm deep 3 to 4 wide.  There is just a little white out left on the "Z" so I guess I'm painting some more white out this morning.  

Doing the valves this morning.


Greetings from Clear and Cold Atlanta - not a breath of wind.  Pefect riding weather so I'm doing maintenance.