Wheel bearing replacement

[Flash]

This is my first post. I'm really impressed by the help and support of the members and staff, and look forward to contributing.

I recently bought a very neglected, but complete 79 r65, and I've got it down to the frame, and am correcting all issues while rebuilding it.
I would like to replace the wheel bearings and seals, and before I put a punch in the axle hole and try to pop them out, I'd like to see if anyone has any advice.
I've got the clymer manual, but none of the wheel categories seems to match what I have, in other words they don't list a heading for my year and model. The bike has the "snowflake" style rims.
Also, is there a better brand of bearings and seals?

All help is greatly appreciated.

[weasel01]

Howdy Flash and welcome.

I'm glad you started this thread as this is something I hope to do in the near future.

As I understand it the bearings and seals are not bmw specific and can be obtained from a bmw dealership or from an industrial bearing house for a little less scratch.

I'm sure someone here has first hand experience on this matter and will chime in soon!

[montmil]

Welcome, Flash. Your last name isn't Gordon is it?

Gimme a bit to gather my notes. I've done front and rears plus have the part numbers for bearings available at local suppliers. Also a few "got the T-shirt" tips. Need more coffee... back in a bit.

Others will post, too. Stay tuned.

Monte I've got a chicken named after me Miller

[nhmaf]

I think in the '81 or '82 model year, BMW went with a sealed bearing set in the front wheel, while the rear wheel still used  'old style' roller bearings wiht replace-able grease seals - at least this is the way my 82 R65LS was/is setup.   There are also some "thrust sleeves" that go into the rear wheel that the grease seals fit around that you may also want to replace if they show wear lines on them.    I just replaced my rear wheel seals and thrust sleeves a few weeks ago, but I am not sure if the sleeves are the same as yours or not -the LS wheels are different from the snowflakes, though I *think* that the hub parts are the same..  

As other posted, I believe that the front sealed bearings are available at an automotive/industrial parts retailer, but I don't have the bearing info handy.

[Justin B.]

All dual shock use the "conventional" bearing except for the LS front which uses a sealed ball-bearing unit.

Also, if after cleaning and inspecting the bearings why replace if they are OK?  This is not an item that needs to be replaced every XXXX miles or just because "they're old".  Properly maintained bearings will most likely out-last the bike...

[montmil]

Both front and rear wheels utilize a 40x17x14mm tapered roller bearing. The grease seals -22x40x7mm- for both wheels are also identical.

Bearing: Timken 30303   I paid $25.48 each, inc .0825% tax, in May 08.
Seal:      Timken -request by seal dimensions noted above- $6.44 each.

Check the A&S BMW parts pages to confirm your bike's correct sizes and part numbers. They'll likely be the same.

http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog/R65(78-85)/catalog_frameset.html

I used a propane torch to gently heat the hub area before knocking out the outer bearing races. How hot? To the point where it's uncomfortable to keep your hand on it. Just a good warming as it doesn't take much heat. A 9" drift punch will catch the lip of the outer race when inserted from the other side. Easy taps and the old race popped out. Heat again for race reinstall but mandatory to square the race in the bore then drive it home with a big socket. Do Not use a drift punch unless you're considering a new wheel!

Check the top of page 189, Fig. 8-5 of the Clymer. That ought to be your front wheel.

Keep track and correct order of all the thrust bushings -known as top hats- tube spacers, adjuster sleeves "rings", etc.

There's this entire BMW angst thing about setting the tapered bearing's preload upon reassembly. Shout out when you're going back together for additional tips.

Monte

[Flash]

Thanks, all.
I'm glad to hear they're tapered roller type. They seem like they would be much better for side load forces. Every other bike I've worked on had sealed rollers. The  swing arm and steering head bearings turned out to be in good shape after I got them cleaned up, so I expect the same for the wheel bearings. I think I'll order new seals before disassembly, and leave the old bearings in if they look good. I'll ask for help on the preload adjustment when the time comes. Thanks again.

[montmil]

Check the rear bearings very closely, Flash. Previous owners may have enjoyed using a high pressure car wash to clean up the wheels but unknowingly put the bearings on the road to ruin by forcing water into them. All too common, unfortunately. I had a rusted rear wheel bearing when I first bought my '81.

Clean the old grease out completely, inspect the races and rollers using a magnifying glass, add fresh grease properly, and never spin a dry bearing using compressed air.

Monte

[Flash]

Will do. Thanks, Monte.

But it so much fun hearing the buzz when you get them really spinning!

[Lucky_Lou]

Ive got an advisory notice with my Mot (1980r65) the manual says(haynes)best left to dealer or expert as the bearing are shimmed??? or pre loaded?
 ive not got round to haveing a go at them yet but will have to sort them before the next Mot i just have a noticeable vibration at about 50mph let me know how you go on!
Lou

[vestandpants]

welcome flash!

when i did my wheel bearings they were in a bit of a state. do as monte says when knocking out the outer races. on reapplication you can dump the outer races in the freezer for 24 hrs before putting them in (makes them shrink a little) and you can use the old race to knock the new one in, as long as its square and you take your time.

good luck and you will be fine

[vestandpants]

plus if you are struggling with manuals on the layout of the spindel then i can scan my factory original manual and email them to you if you so wish

[Lucky_Lou]

plus if you are struggling with manuals on the layout of the spindel then i can scan my factory original manual and email them to you if you so wish

Please do  pm or whatever
Lou

[Flash]

I'll let Y'all know how she goes. Thanks.