Timing chain noise?

[montmil]

You're wanting to s-p-r-e-a-d the exhaust nut; increasing its inside diameter and relieving the excessive pressure on the threaded stub and, hopefully, crack the old nut.

Chisel cutting edge goes into the front of the saw cut exhaust nut parallel to the stub threads but not nicking 'em. How hard do you hit it? Why, that's the nut to crack. Right?  Sorry. Couldn't help myself.

Sip slowly. Stay thirsty.

[weasel01]

Well as it turned out a friend stopped by early on and completely distracted me so I stopped.

Maybe tomorrow night....

Monte your loosing me when you say parallel to the stub threads?

Parallel to the stub threads to me means the broad end of the chisel
is perpendicular to the saw cut?

correct or the opposite?

[Justin B.]

Put the chisel INTO the cut and a little rap with a hammer will split it and it'll practically remove itself!

[Landlubber]

I had to cut one off on my LS just last week, it is easy to do, do not be too worried about it. Once most of the cut has been made, the chisel splits the alloy nut very easily. My nut had a bolt screwed into it to hold it onto the head, the PO was a country girl, I guess that is how you do it when you have to do something on your own. Now of course I find the threads totally nonexistant...she must have stripped it previously and the screw was just her way of continuing riding.

Get my frame back tomorrow morning after powder coating, then I can start the rebuild.

[montmil]

...correct or the opposite?

Visualize the chisel in a longitudinal plane in relation to the bike's chassis. Do all you can to keep the chisel away from the easily damaged stub threads.

BTW, Motobins sells an exhaust nut replacement assembly that secures to a damaged cylinder head exhaust stub. Kinda funky looking but less expensive than the approx $400 price tag for a stub rebuild.

Monte

[weasel01]

Sounds like I was doing it right? It didnt budge at all. though..I guess I'm not tapping hard enough.

Or maybe I have the wrong chisel? I selected one with the broad edge about as long as the cut and slightly thicker than the kerf.?  

[weasel01]

Should I have penetrating oil on this too?

[montmil]

Sounds like I was doing it right? It didnt budge at all. though..I guess I'm not tapping hard enough.

Or maybe I have the wrong chisel? I selected one with the broad edge about as long as the cut and slightly thicker than the kerf.?  

More kerf is good! A dead blow hammer is also less scary.   Monte

[weasel01]

Alright guys you can now consider me a seasoned nut splitter from way back.

I borrowed a thicker kerf chisel from my shop placed it into the saw ct  gave it a couple good whacks with my hammer and off it came!

Second one was off in under 20 minutes.

Both stubs revealed dirty but in tact threads YES!

Now on to the original job at hand ....timing chain!

here I go.

[steve hawkins]

Well done.  It is worrying job if you have never done it before.

And at least you are safe from having to repair threads or having to put the different type of exhaust clamps on that will imediately identify your bike (to those in the know) that you have an exhaust thread issue.  And if you ever came to sell it  - thats a fair chunk off your asking price.

Make sure you clean the threads and put some copper-ease on the them when you put the new nuts on.  This at least, is a job that you will not have to attempt again.  Safe in the knowledge that your threads are good and you lubed the nuts last time they were off.  Unless of course you buy another airhead

Steve H

[weasel01]

I got the cover off and exposed the timing chain and found the noise maker...its the tensioner , it's worn all the way through to the metal and when I rotate the wheel to turn the engine over I can hear that annoying rattle.

hopefully tonight I can swap the chain and accociated parts.
I'm going slow on this part as I understand the possible damage if it's wrong.

I have the left piston at tdc the OT mark is lined up in my case hole and the dot on the big sprocket is at the noon position.
I cant see any mark on the cam sprocket but with the dot at noon as described but there is only one tooth on the cam sprocket that looks lined up ....thats the one I mark ...right?

[montmil]

Yep.  

You may end up rotating the engine shafts to get the clip back on, but as long as you keep the chain engaged and can return the marks to position, you're good to go.

Sparkle plugs out? Easier working without fighting engine compression.

PS: It, too, was the lame, worn out tensioner on my '81 that was creating the rattling. Use everything in the Motobins kit and ride happy. You may find the tensioner coil spring has gone short on you and is not applying correct pressure on the shoe. Maybe...

Monte

[weasel01]

Got the timing chain mounted and I'm saticefied the sprockets are in sync.

I've rolled the rear wheel in 5th gear several times no binding and the dots line up perfectly.

I'm ready to put it back together but I have a couple questions (of course).

1)Do I need to put oil on the new gasket first?

2)Is there anything to look out for on the timing can? alignment marks etc...?

[Bob_Roller]

Did you get two paper gaskets, that look like washers ?

Don't forget to put them on, they seal the two bolts near the center of the timing case near the upper end, they go between the timing case and the front of the engine, put a dab of sealant to keep them on until the bolts are installed .

[weasel01]

No washer gaskets in my kit?