Leaky rear drive

[Bengt_Phorqs]

I ended up breaking the cap off to open the filler hole.  It had obviously not been opened in a while and the bolt was going to be rounded off unless I overshot a socket on it.

Like Justin suggested, a Wiki article complete with photos would be very helpful.  Right now the cap on my bike is just a friction fit and I would like to know how it should go back together.  

[montmil]

The cap's not bengt is it? Couldn't resist...

Mike, can you rotate the domed cap on top of the vent tube and feel the spot where it fractured and popped free? Is so, use a Sharpie and make alignment marks.

Then, what I did was to gently but snugly secure the domed cap in a vice -metal jaws only- in an inverted position.

Next, I placed small bits of silver solder and some soldering paste into the vent tube right at the broken spot. Push the stuff through the broken top hole and align all thru the vent holes. I wanted to get enough solder to hold the cap but not so much that it flowed into the two vent holes. This turned out to be a non-issue as the vent holes are up the side of the vent stack.

Sudden thought... Guess you could drill a couple new vent holes a bit away from the original...

Position the bolt into the domed cap and align your marks. I used some .032 safety wire to hold the bolt in alignment.

A BernZoMatic butane-powered mini torch heated the point of contact on the dome. The paste and solder melted pretty quickly and I was able to reinstall the vent bolt and ride off for a test.

Obviously, the parts need to be uber clean before the torch work. I buy WallyWorld carb cleaner by the case.

Use those new florescent shop lights you put up and keep your ugly mug outta the line of fire. Work safe and you'll be golden.

Monte    

[Bengt_Phorqs]

Thanks Monte, I think even I can follow the written word in this case.  Would a heat gun work for the silver soldering instead of the burnzomatik torch?  Mine will produce about 450 F? [smiley=flamethrowingsmiley.gif]

[montmil]

...Would a heat gun work for the silver soldering instead of the burnzomatik torch?  Mine will produce about 450 F?

Kinda doubt it, pardner. Silver solder is harder and requires more temp to melt. Have you got a propane torch? Bigger fire so be even more cautious where you point that thing. [smiley=flamethrowingsmiley.gif]

I know, We know... that's a smiley flaming somebody but it's kinda appropriate when Mike's BBQing or doing home repairs.     Monte

[Yikes]

Thanks for the soldering tip , Monte.  Sounds much better than the PC7 epoxy method I used to fix mine.  Seems to work, but I always check after each ride to see if it's still there.  A soldered connection would actually be a good permanent fix.  I was thinking of the epoxy as a temporary fix till I got a replacement, but at $15 for a new one, the soldering is much more attractive!  

[Bengt_Phorqs]

I was thinking of the epoxy as a temporary fix till I got a replacement, but at $15 for a new one, the soldering is much more attractive!  

Well if that's all a new one cost I'd be better off buying one than buying a burnz-o-matic flame thrower and the silver solder.  Or better yet, I may just show up at Monte's doorstep with a 6 pack of Monte Light and have him do it for me.  [smiley=beerchug.gif]

[montmil]

Sunday morning early I pulled the vent/fill cap off the '83 and followed NH Mike's "adjustment" technique for raising the domed cover.

Secured the plug upside down in a vise gripping the hex bolt portion. I found that the square end of a 3/8" socket extension made solid contact with the inner sleeve. Light taps with a small tack hammer did it. 10 minutes, tops, to reinstall. No soldering or epoxy mixing.

Thinking the '83 still needs the big, round, paper gasket in the final drive.

Monte