"I want to re-torque the cylinders and adjust the valves...Anything to look out for?"
You can do it, Ampy.
Like Bob said..."I don't know what manual you are working from, but the cylinder head nut torque has been reduced from 29 ft/lbs to I believe 24 ft/lbs., and this is accomplished in three steps. Also there is a torque sequence for the nuts, should be stated in your manual."
Lemme see here... Set .002" on the intakes and .004" on the exhaust. Disregard anything different you may read in the manuals. You want to end up with a wee bit of BMW Music. Tappity tappity.
No in-or-out side to the rocker box gaskets. And do be gentle with the center stud torque and the two 10mm nuts on each end of the cover. I don't use the torque wrench on mine. Just snug 'em up with a short-handled wrench.
IIRC, one of the cylinder head bolts is a bit difficult to reach. Seems the rocker shaft and associated stuff is an small obstacle.
Be sure to rotate the cold engine 180 degrees after setting the valves on one side! You can watch for the on-top mark through the timing hole near the dipstick. You'll then be able to rattle by hand and confirm the TDC valves.
Feeler gauge should be snug between the rocker tip and the valve head. Not crushed down so tight that you can't remove it. In removing the feeler gauge, a fairly firm yet smooth pull ought to be about right. It's something you'll learn by doing. Better a tiny bit loose than risking burning an exhaust valve.
Monte
