r100rs fairing

[trolle]

Really beautiful!

I made arrangements with my painter this weekend to paint my rs-fairing and the rest of the painted parts glossy black with a white pinstripe. With this and the latest report from Lars I am really looking forward to driving the r65 with the full fairing.

Even though the weather here in Denmark is a little less moist than what they are experiencing in the British Isles a protection is a very good thing.

I am thinking of putting progressive springs in the front fork to make up for the added weight of the fairing, any comments on that?

greetings from a rainy and dark north

[steve hawkins]

Trolle,

As you have no doubt read, I am not a fan of the larger fairings on the smaller bikes, however, I would agree that putting a set of progressive or heavy duty springs in the forks is a very sensible thing to do.

It is my oppinion (and only my oppinion) that the RS fairing is the better choice though.

[trolle]

Hi Steve

I know and I would prefer my S-fairing but as I often use the bike on the highway/motorway going for  a 100 miles or more ride all year round, the S-fairing offers too little protection.

I am keeping the S-fairing, and if I find the RS to cumbersome in the summer, a switch is a possibility.

Thanks for supporting the idea of progressive springs. I prefer a very hard setup of the bike as it gives a better feel of the road and as it is now the nose diving when braking before going round a bend breaks my rythm.

greetings from a rainy and dark north

[larstorders]

Thanks for all your appreciative comments everyone. It’s really nice to be able to share things like this with fellow enthusiasts.
 Brrr, I've been in Denmark during winter Trolle and you certainly need a fairing when summer's gone. Nice to be able to ride most of the year round ain't it   . But it's tough on the finish.
I think were all looking forward to seeing a picture of your RS conversion now Trolle. 
 I did this paint myself, many months ago. As the cheapest offer for a quality job was around £400 and I just knew it wouldn't stay pristine for long. I used a borrowed sprayer and paint sourced by a mate. Easy to touch up with rattle cans and I was curious to see what sort of a finish I could get, too. Pinstriping, was using the masking tape technique, just like the BM factory did on this model. It was difficult to match BMW 501 blue cos it's faded over the years. Ford Hawiain Gemini blue came just about right and a deep and lustrous finish was achieved, in parts   . As predicted, though, the fairing has suffered a ding already. No one round here has accepted responsibility yet, but I suspect a careless bicycle pedal   .  The tank is original paint. I really dont want it painted because the original is such a durable finish. Shame about the scratch on one side though. Caused by a tiny coin stuck under the magnetic tank bag, Aaargh! Front mudguard and tail piece are on the rattle can, to do list.

I fitted 'progressive' fork springs a few months ago (4,000 miles) so they’ve had time to break in. While, with my light weight <65kg, they remained a bit too hard previously, they're very good now the fairing is fitted.  Other than 'progressive' Trolle I wasn't able to find any other heavier than standard spring for the R65.

Aussie you asked about windshields, which often cause a dilemma. There's a strong airflow over the stock shield but I found it quite smooth on previous RSs I 've ridden/ owned. It provides the right amount of support, for me, when leaning forward on those RS bars and it’s way quieter than the flip up, for me. But, I know of other folks, usually those just a little bit taller than me (5’ 8”) who absolutely hate it. The flip up also reduces the airflow against my helmet and my upper shoulders and so increases the weight on my wrists a little bit and it's a bit too close to my face for my liking. The stock item feels and looks sportier and it doesn't really encroach on my view of the road, so I’ll probably switch.

[larstorders]

Apologies Trolle. I just realised I've hijacked what was initially your thread.
Maybe it's time to start an RS conversion thread. I found quite a few little 'challenges during the project  

[trolle]

I don't mind. On the contrary, your postings have made me really looking forward to the "new" fairing.

On the subject of flip up: I got one for the S-fairing as the flow of the stock screen hit me right on the throat (I'm 6'1") on top of that I've added a laminar lip which smoothes the airflow at high speed thus diminishing the turbulence noise. The screen of my "new" RS-fairing is with flip up and I hope that it will keep the airflow away from my body and face.

Winter is hard on the surfaces but a nice layer of oil on the aluminum parts and wax on the painted parts preserves the good looks. (But she looks old and dirty in winter).

greetings from a moist and dark north

[Lucky_Lou]

Ive just stripped a rickman faireng off my R65 as part of the rebuild there were two rather mickey mouse spacers fitted to the forks to prevent oversteer they were 1/4 inch key steel welded to a jubilee clip very primitive located onto the bottom yolk you may have to fit something simular to stop you tyeing yourselfe into a knot on a tight corner
Lou

[larstorders]

Hmmm, yes. Quite right Lucky. Lock stops should be set correctly to prevent the fork legs tangling with the fairing. I thought all R65s had the substantial lock stop at the base of the steering head, which is pre-drilled so that a threaded bar n nuts can be used to limit the forks' movement. 'Mickey Mouse spacers ?' a picture would be interesting.

[trolle]

On the post '81 model there is a substantial stop on the lower yoke cast with the yoke.

greetings from a cold and quiet north

[tagordon]

Compliments to you Lars

[trolle]

Question for Lars: How is the instrument pod or dashboard mounted on your bike? As far as I can judge there is no room for the original front panel with the RS fairing bracket mounted so either the pod must be mounted in some other way or I have to bring my hacksaw to the original front panel, which pains me a little.

greetings from a freezing and wet north

[larstorders]

Now you're asking trolle.
Hold on just for a bit while I grab some photos for you.
The R65 instruments have to be elevated moved back toward the yokes and tilted back to fit them in. I'm afraid.

[larstorders]

I've put a set of pics I took and expanations, while fixing up the instrument mounting bracket here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/larstorders/sets/
   Choose a set. Click on thumbnails at right, then click on '' + all sizes''  tag at top centre of pic for a full size (albeit low res) image. Click back button, click on next thumbnail at right.

Please feel free to ask if I've missed out some details.

TROLLE, What bars are you fitting to yours?
I used standard RS bars and 25mm risers to provide clearance for the front brakes master cylinder from the top yoke.
I'm wondering if you have a 1982 onwards twin disc model like mine, as master cyinders may differ between models.

The R65 instruments are originally mounted much further forward and 'flatter' than those on an R100, for instance. The bracket I made is very sturdy and vibration free, but not ideal from an aesthetic or mechanical view, so only temporary. I am working on a posh mounting utilising stanchion clamps, which should be quite nice, but won't be finished for a few weeks.
I can provide measurements of the temporary mounting I made, if you like Trolle.
In the finest Fed Dibnah tradition, though, my  plans for the final 'posh' mounting are just on the back of an old envelope and penciled on a tasty looking lump of 5083     .

How did you get on with the brake hoses by the way?

ebay is a good source for steel and aluminium in small quantities.
And yes butchery of the headlamp/instrument mounting plate was a part of my modification
I cut it back even further than this.

[Justin B.]

This is the factory instrument mount for the "police" models:

[trolle]

I've put a set of pics I took and expanations, while fixing up the instrument mounting bracket here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/larstorders/sets/
   Choose a set. Click on thumbnails at right, then click on '' + all sizes''  tag at top centre of pic for a full size (albeit low res) image. Click back button, click on next thumbnail at right.

Please feel free to ask if I've missed out some details.

Thank you very much, just what I needed. I've already printed your pictures to use them as blueprints.

TROLLE, What bars are you fitting to yours?
I used standard RS bars and 25mm risers to provide clearance for the front brakes master cylinder from the top yoke.
I'm wondering if you have a 1982 onwards twin disc model like mine, as master cyinders may differ between models.

The R65 instruments are originally mounted much further forward and 'flatter' than those on an R100, for instance. The bracket I made is very sturdy and vibration free, but not ideal from an aesthetic or mechanical view, so only temporary. I am working on a posh mounting utilising stanchion clamps, which should be quite nice, but won't be finished for a few weeks.
I can provide measurements of the temporary mounting I made, if you like Trolle.
In the finest Fed Dibnah tradition, though, my  plans for the final 'posh' mounting are just on the back of an old envelope and penciled on a tasty looking lump of 5083     .

I have an RS bar with clamps, and I intend to use the lower part of the clamps as risers - they have just the right height. And yes the wh8la2 is a October 83 production with the square reservoir.

Please, please send me the measurements as I intend to produce it in stainless steel.

Fed Dibnah?  5083?  Please excuse a humble foreigner  having had the bad luck to be born at the continent, for which I am blaming my parents   

 

How did you get on with the brake hoses by the way?

ebay is a good source for steel and aluminium in small quantities.

I've just bought new ss-braided hoses from Motobins which I  hope to combine with the old RS-set from Ebay  and the parts from my original set. That is if it is possible to take the original set apart.

 

And yes butchery of the headlamp/instrument mounting plate was a part of my modification
I cut it back even further than this.

That hurt! I bet  [smiley=thud.gif]

greetings from a frosty and foggy north, dangerous conditions