a couple of gearbox / clutch maintenance questions

[rob650]

Thanks in advance for any and all advice...

82 R65, 55K miles
removed gearbox to replace torn boot, replace neutral switch, and lube splines.  Clutch plates showed no oil leaks / contamination, but splines themselves where bone dry.  My questions:

1.  The gearbox splines get moly grease, but not on the splines in the center of the clutch plate, right?

2.  Shifting action has been fine (to me) up to this point.  Any good reason to disassemble the clutch plates for examination?  Can we tell how much clutch disk material is left without taking stuff further apart?

3.  When I re-install the clutch actuating rod (?) back into the gearbox, does it need to be coated with moly grease, or just normal gearbox oil?  What about the little circular bearing and piston?

Everything else looks pretty OK for a 27 year old bike.  Nice to have stuff apart and clean off all the old oil, gook and grunge.

Thanks Everybody.

Rob

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Thanks in advance for any and all advice...

82 R65, 55K miles
removed gearbox to replace torn boot, replace neutral switch, and lube splines.  Clutch plates showed no oil leaks / contamination, but splines themselves where bone dry.  My questions:

1.  The gearbox splines get moly grease, but not on the splines in the center of the clutch plate, right?

Correct.  Also put a bit on the tip of the pushrod, where it impacts the clutch.

2.  Shifting action has been fine (to me) up to this point.  Any good reason to disassemble the clutch plates for examination?  Can we tell how much clutch disk material is left without taking stuff further apart?

With only 55K miles, if there is no slippage in 4th & 5th gears under load, I would leave the clutch alone.  I don't know if it can be measured in situ.

3.  When I re-install the clutch actuating rod (?) back into the gearbox, does it need to be coated with moly grease, or just normal gearbox oil?  What about the little circular bearing and piston?

Gear oil, definitely.  Both places.

The only two places to apply moly grease is the input splines, and the large splines on the rear wheel hub.

And don't forget to grease (axle grease is fine) the "barrel" up at the hand lever, and a bit on the lower lever, as well.


click for larger

[Bob_Roller]

BMW now has a grease specifically for transmission input splines.

BMW part number : 82000419624.

The tube has : Microlube GL261 on it.

25 grams of grease.

Cost in the US around $17-18.

I used it when I had the transmission out for overhaul.

A very 'sticky' clear grease.

Use very sparingly.

You've probably got a good 30,000miles left on the clutch.

[rob650]

Will follow these instructions, Rob and Bob, thank you both.

Rob

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Or you can go to any Honda motorcycle dealer and get their Honda Moly 60.  

Much less expensive, and they don't change their minds on formulation every 6 months.


click on the pic

[Bob_Roller]

I agree with you on the cost aspect of the BMW grease Rob, I originally used the Honda lube, and after my transmission/clutch debacle of about 18 months ago, the independent BMW shop that helped me out then, recommended the BMW lube.

I guess I'll know, when I do my next spline lube.

[rob650]

Thanks Bob_ and Rob for all your help.

Bike is back together and took it out for a short ride today.  MUCH better.  Shifting is slicker than snot.  My splines were bone dry when I pulled the trans off.

Cleaned up lots of old road grease and oil-leak grime after removing the trans.

I also found the fuel line running underneath the airbox to the right carb was crushed to 1/2 its original size.  new fuel line, now acceleration is smoother and the bike doesn't get jerky at small throttle openings, like parking lot speeds

The garage is a mess.  Well worth it!

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Glad to hear it worked out for you!  And you got some bonus fix in the process.

That fuel line should be examined and/or replaced every couple of years.

If you don't care about originality, you can run a metal pipe through the space under the airbox, and just attach your fuel lines on either side.
I've never done it, so I can't tell you any details.