Side Panel Paint Rehab

[montmil]

Could it be the Rustoleum brand of paint? I do not know what all's in the rust proofing chemical makeup of that particular paint.

Perhaps try a good quality rattle can enamel, such as Ace Hardware's Premier line. It can be sanded down to nothing and recoated without problems. Shoot, sanding a bit through the first coat to the substrate is pretty common. I knowingly did it on both of my side panels.

Sorry for your misfortune but don't give up. I do think I'd try a different product line without any special attributes.

Monte

[Justin B.]

It shouldn't react with like paint, sounds like it bled through and reacted with something underneath.  When you are not 100% sure what's underneath it's good to either use an epoxy sealer or take the part down to substrate...

[nhmaf]

I'm gonna sand the bejeebers out of it and try again with a different brand of primer and color enamel.  I'll try the Ace hardware stuff as I think that there is a store not far away that should have it.

grumble, grumble.

I think that it must have partially dissolved the previous layer of 24-hour old paint, as THAT paint, which went on over the primer, didn't have any bubbling issues (it was the first coat of rusto paint).

[montmil]

I was talking with the owner of my favorite autobody supply. The lady owner provided me with a $100.00 lesson for free and also mentioned cross linking; mixing different paint formulations and additives. Could result in incomplete curing of the paint.

I always use a primer to separate unknown finishes. Even taken down to the base substrate, I utilize a primer. So far, no issues but there's always tomorrow.  

Monte    

[nhmaf]

I just got back from the ACE hardware store with a new can of Ace Premier gloss black enamel and Premier grey enamel primer to have another go at the sidepanels.

I just noticed on the can it says: "To prevent wrinkling, recoat within 2 hours or wait 5 days".  

I think that the sentence above is probably the CRITICAL factor, and does not appear on the can of rustoleum brand paint I first tried.  IT definitely created a very uniform looking "pebbly" type of surface shortly after I applied another coat after sanding the coat that I had applied 24 hours earlier and which seemed to be dry.   Maybe if I had a heated paint box/oven it would cure faster than waiting 5 days.
<sigh>    

I'll just have to take my time with it.

[Justin B.]

Big difference between a primer and a sealer.  Mike, if you have a compressor you can get a copy of a Binks Touch-Up gun at HF for under $20 and do it with automotive grade paint.

[steve hawkins]

nhmaf,

Sorry to hear you are having problems with the old rustoleum.

I did not have any such issues and I was recoating every day in fairly low temperatures (nowhere near the recomended temps) - but I did it with a brush and a pot.

As I said before -  minimum of 4 coats with a brush, over a period of 4 days - with a re-key between each coat.  Each coat with brush strokes in a diffent direction.  I did not thin it, I painted directly from the tin.

Then you can start the proper rubbing down and finishing.  It aint perfect, but only because of my impatience.  I might rub it down later and give it another coat or two to get that absolutely perfect finish.  Perhaps next winter!

[nhmaf]

I had painted the frame of this same bike with a brush, and it had come out well, but I was using some expensive POR paint at the time.   The rustoleum paint has generally also worked well for me, until now.   Even with a primer coat on it first did some funky stuff - though I suppose the sidecovers now look like black leather - a sort of fine, wrinkle patina all over, but not the look I was going for, and it IS gloss black paint.. So, I'll sand them down again and re-prime and repaint, going slowly, with the
different brand/different base paint.  

I do have a good compressor in the garage, but no paint gun (yet).   At the moment it would take me at least a week to clear out the garage sufficiently to be able to make a place to spry paint with the compressor without speckling something else !   After the sidecovers and recovering the seat, then maybe I'll see about repainting all the other body parts on the LS myself, or biting the bullet and having it done.   I am planning to get the wheels off and powder coated sometime this year, but probably not until sometime AFTER the big rally in Tennessee (at this point I'm still thinking of riding the R65 down there - it's only about 800 miles or so!)

[montmil]

...I just noticed on the can it says: "To prevent wrinkling, recoat within 2 hours or wait 5 days".  I think that the sentence...is probably the CRITICAL factor...

Yep. Sand 'em back down after full cure then shoot each new coat within the two hour time frame. Let the panels cure for a week+, then color sand for maximum Wow effect.

Monte