Clutch repair - align flywheel and pressure twins

[plc]

Hi All,

Well after using many free periods at work (will pay for that big time later) my R65 is back on the road with a new clutch. The old clutch plate was glazed from my licence testing day. So I installed a new clutch plate, pressure plate, pressure ring and spring.  Besides my home made alignment tool giving me some grief it all went well except for one thing.

The new pressure ring and plates had marks for alignment, but the flywheel puzzled me. It had two marks, a yellow mark on the ring gear and a dodgy looking white smear near to the centre. Which was the mark for aligning the tree parts 120° out of alignment.  Well I thought the yellow mark on the ring gear looked deliberate. The white mark on the flywheel looked like a glue of marker smear.  

Yet when I rode the  bike today it just felt... well, off. Accelerated well, idled OK, but at 3000 rpm it felt more buzzy than it used to. Also when at about 2000 rpm in 3rd of 4th and you open the throttle the labouring seems worse than before.

Are my three parts wrongly aligned? Is there anyway to determine where the flywheel/clutch carrier mark should be if it has rubbed off. Is the white smear truly the mark I should have used. Is the mark ever on the ring gear.

During the time it was off the road the carbs were pulled off and sat on the cylinders, throttle cables were not removed, so I assume they aren't out of balance. I did overhaul the right enricher, but that should effect 3000 rpm running, or low rpm high gear acceleration.

Fellow R65ers I needs some advice from the collective wisdom.  

Besides this I have to say the bike was a joy to work on. So straight forward.  Feel much more confident working on it now.

Best to all,
Paul

[nhmaf]

I believe that the factory marks for keeping the heavy spots 120 degrees off from each other were always made toward the outside, not near the center.   On my R65, I also found that there were red paint marks along the outermost edge of the flywheel, pressure plate and carrier disk in a straight line, indicating that these were all lined up in that way at the factory.   Examining each one showed a yellow mark that was oriented 120 degrees off from the next part.   So, I believe that you put the parts back together correctly.   If not, you'd probably find significantly greater vibration all across the RPM range.  

I think that your issue is indeed with the carb balancing.  It doesn't take much to get one cylinder pulling harder than the other, which can cause symptoms you describe.   It may be time to clean the other carb, and recheck the one that you just did, and then do a formal carb synch adjustment.   Do you have a set of tubes or gauges or a Twinmax gizmo to do the balancing?   One can also use a bunch of clear plastic pipe and some automatic transmission fluid, but I find that to be more of a hassle to get out and setup, so I bought a set of steel slide tubes (CarbTune).

We can help you through the carb adjusting.. somwhere we had a pretty good thread on it, but I am not finding it at this instant..