Rear Wheel Bearings 1981 R65

[ShutterPilot]

Hi,
Like an earlier query on valve specs, my searches here regarding rear wheel bearings return SO many results that I'm not really finding an answer to my (probably ignorant) question.
I "think" Wheel bearings are supposed to be of tapered type till '84, when they went to sealed type.
But, two things I'm encountering:
1. Parts fische seem to state "up to 1/1981" for taper type, PN 07 11 9 985 005. My model is 10/1981 date.
2. My failing memory seems to recall something from 10 years ago about a mechanic doing wheel service for me stating they'd look at replacing the tapers with sealed.
3. Do R65's need the preload check procedure like the other type 247 airheads?

So, yes, I could sacrifice/pop the outer seals and see for myself. But the wheel exhibits NO play and inner races I can reach with my finger feel nice and smooth. so, IF they're tapered, I just wanna go ahead and regrease them (using the Cycleworks bearing greaser), but don't wanna go at that of course if indeed sealed bearings are in there.

Any thoughts from late '81, 1982 R65 owners on what's supposed to be in there? I know its a noob/lazy question, but I'd appreciate any experiential feedback before i tear into the rear hub and bugger something.

[Bob_Roller]

After 43 years and usually multiple owners, it's impossible to say what you have . 
If no one has been in there since it left the factory, it should have tapered roller bearings .
I checked the wheel bearings on the 3 LS's I have and they all have sealed bearings, that's the 'composite wheels' not the 'snowflake' wheels on the standard R65's .
The BMW parts catalog show the same bearings and seals for all bikes after 09/81 up to '84 .
I'm sure that all that are available from BMW now are sealed bearings .

And yes you need to do the preload check on the R65's .
It looks like the bearing greaser from Cycle Works only works on the tapered roller bearings, not useable on the sealed bearings .
I don't like to admit it, but my '81 R65 has 94,000 miles on it and I have not done anything to either front or rear wheel bearings .
So, you have a decision to make !!

[Barry]

You shouldn't have to pop the seals out to discover what you have got.  Simply slacken the axle nut right off.  If they are sealed ball bearings the free play won't change when you rock the wheel where as it will if they are the original taper rollers.

If they are taper rollers then you can do a basic check on the pre-load by rocking the wheel while gradually tightening the wheel nut. If the free play disappears at too low a torque then there is too much preload and if it disappears at too high a torque or not at all, there is not enough pre-load although this isn't going to be the case with your bike as you say there is currently no free play.  This is called the Duane Aushernan method:
 
 Reinstall the axle and perform the “shake the wheel” test again.  Be sure to reinstall the axle correctly.  Keep changing spacers or shims until the play just goes away when the nut is about 15-20 lbs of torque.  It is better to be too loose than to be too tight.  If one wedding band produces spacing of 10 lbs and another produces 25 lbs, go for the 25 lbs.

https://w6rec.com/the-5-wheel-bearings/

[georgesgiralt]

Hi !
Your 1981 R65 left the factory with tapered bearings. At that time the only R65 with sealed bearings was the LS with it's composite wheels.
When the monolever bikes came out, BMW switched to sealed bearings for all bikes.
What you see now on the fiche is the part BMW sells nowadays for their bikes. Not what they used to use. So maybe they decided the tapered bearings where too expensive and did not offer as much profit as they wanted...
I would at next tire change inspect the bearings for wear and tear. They are badly neglected. So if not in pristine order, replace them. And if I where in your shoes, I would choose the tapered bearings .....
While you're at it, check and grease the swing arm pivot bearings...  These are more neglected than the wheel's.....

[dogshome]

On my other bike that must not be named (Yamaha cruiser  ) you can fit taper roller bearings to upgrade the standard angular contact ball type. Guess what's going in when they need doing?

On the beemer, the taper roller bearings are extremely tough in the wheels. They have an easy life, if the seals haven't gone and they get wet. The ones in the head only last 30 years, the swingarm 40. Nothing lasts these days 

[Barry]

On the beemer, the taper roller bearings are extremely tough in the wheels. They have an easy life, if the seals haven't gone and they get wet. The ones in the head only last 30 years, the swingarm 40. Nothing lasts these days 

Only 40 years !

All my bearings are original at 45 years.  Swinging arm gets greased once per year, wheel bearings at every tyre change.  The head bearings I rescued from solidified grease at 28 years old and only 6000 miles. Steering felt real notchy but it was only the grease and they cleaned up fine.

The taper roller bearings were all originally specified on earlier models to take the loads of a sidecar so no reason why they shouldn't last near for ever on a solo with regular maintenance.

[Bob_Roller]

Any idea how that bearing greaser works ??
There isn't a picture on their website .

[Barry]

I think this is a photo of the Cycleworks greaser

[Burt]

Many years ago when I started riding long distances on my R65, I used to carry spare bearings as part of my toolkit.  I had spent some time in an aircraft wheels and brake workshop, so had just used the available aircraft wheel bearing grease.  I eventually realised that it was the wrong type of grease, so bought the automotive stuff.  As one wheel bearing decided to go in the middle of nowhere, I was able to replace it.  I grease all my bearings by hand but that's just me. 

[ShutterPilot]

Any idea how that bearing greaser works ??
There isn't a picture on their website .

@Bob_Roller - here's a vid on ther Cycleworks greaser. I bought one, but since I have the seals, I opted to pull seals and clean/regrease bearings and innards.
https://youtu.be/31AGN90WTM8?si=_JhHjfCqFaD4dfMD

[Barry]

For those with the R65LS  just clarify for me the situation with wheel bearings.

For some reason I'd got it into my head that the LS models had a ball race on the front wheel but retained a taper roller on the rear. 

Have I got that wrong ?

[ShutterPilot]

Thanks all. I pulled the seals and regreased by hand, and can confirm that there are currently tapered roller bearings in there. Easy to get to, easy to inspect, easy to grease.
Now, at the risk of starting a dreaded grease thread, I used "Green Grease Synthetic Waterproof High Temp" grease in there, as I had a brand new tube of it, says it meets NLGI-2 standard, and I thought "waterproof" would be a good call on wheel bearings. Sound okay, or should I be using something else?

[Burt]

Putting my cynical hat on for a moment but I expect all grease to be waterproof.  A marketing gimmick perhaps?   

Any brand name automotive wheel bearing grease should do the trick.  Is Green grease another marketing gimmick?  I fail to see how anything subtlety advertised as green can be environmentally friendly if it is a petroleum based product.  Unless of course that name is nothing to do with the environment.

Cynical hat now removed. 

Apart from that, any brand name automotive wheel grease is what I would use.  The bearing seals that seal between the axle and the bearing should be water tight, dust proof, etc.  If not then anything that gets into the bearing can destroy it.  And they all run at high temperatures. 

Of course there are different applications depending on the environment the bearing works in.  For a motorcycle, it starts from ambient temperature and warms up to its rated working temperature and stays at that temperature till no longer operating.  Rinse and repeat for next time.  If any moisture gets into the bearing then the seal is leaking and both will need replacing.  Sorry, I cannot be any more helpful than that as there is not much more to wheel bearing grease unless you wish to delve into the technical aspects of it. 

[ShutterPilot]