What should/can I do when the engine is out of the frame?

[gregb]

I'm tired of looking at my ugly frame (85 twin shock) that someone painted with a brush while the engine was in there. So it's coming apart to get a proper paint job (winter's coming here). The bike runs well and I have no engine, clutch or transmission problems.

So my question is what else should I do to the engine clutch and transmission while they are out? I'm thinking the clutch is more likely to need something checked/replaced. It looks like the transmission will probably need to come off before the engine is removed to make things easier. I'm definitely not looking to make work for myself here, but if there is something that it would be wise to tackle while out, I would appreciate any advice please.

Swingarm etc work seems obvious enough, so it's just things that I would be kicking myself later for not doing that I'm asking about.

Just a couple of other things come to mind:
1. The driveshaft loses some oil into the transmission. It sounds like a common thing from reading this forum and I can live with it now that I know how much gets flung in there. From looking at drawings it doesn't look like there is anything to stop it doing that, but if there is then that's something I would like to do.
2. Some pushrod tube seals have a very slight leak. Not enough to drip on the floor and it can wait. These look like they can be done easily enough in the frame later when really needed- is that correct?

Thanks for reading this.

PS..just returned from a 2,000 km trip on this. Apart from the driveshaft oil thing, and a bit of throttle cable stretch to be adjusted out, it ran perfectly. Love it.

[georgesgiralt]

Hello,
When you have the frame bare, check the bushes onto which the center stand goes. Easy to repair with the bare frame and before painting less so after....
If you go the powder coat route, do not forget to give the guy all the parts that should/could need it. Sub frame, battery holder, center stand, swing arm, foot rest pegs, headlight support...
Price wise this does not make a huge difference but aesthetically very very significant.
Bear in mind that for powder coating you will have to remove the bearing races of the swing arm and head stock. That will entail new bearings but may be a blessing given the poor service the swing arm bearing gets.
If I were you, I would address the different leaks while the parts are on the bench. Your back may thank you. But beware. When you will remove the gearbox coupling tulip to change the lip seal under it, it is tempting to go further... And then, the wallet thin fast and list of things to do lengthen.....

[gregb]

Thankyou. Yes, I'll possibly powder coat it and will take your suggestions on board.

[georgesgiralt]

Something to pay attention to is the swing arm.  If you look at the face where the rear drive goes, there is no paint or a very thin paint. After powder coating, the paint thickness is a lot wider. And when you install the rear drive, the wheel axe does not fit because the holes do not align.
So powder coating yes, but remove as much paint as you can BEFORE installing the rear drive... Better done on the bench than on the bike.
5 years ago it costed me around 300 € to have the front headlight support, frame, air box, starter motor cover, battery box, foot pegs, subframe, saddle hand, swing arm, and rear indicators support powder coated...
I did not do the center stand as I had one new on hand. But I forgot to repair the bushes on the frame.... So the new stand does not come up by itself. My bad...
The painter suggested to have the bearing races in place for the paint not to cover the place. They put rubber stoppers on the holes to add an extra protection. And when I removed the painted races, it was perfect for installation of the new bearings. Talk to them prior to the powder coating job to know exactly what preparation you have to do or not...

[gregb]

Thanks again for your advice on powdercoating. Yes, preparation saves a lot of work later. I probably won't powdercoat the swingarm; I'll paint it myself as I'm not puling the driveshaft out anyway.

I've got the rear end apart and now realise how much more difficult engine removal is than on a simple chain drive machine. Anyway, no turning back now as that frame needs painting.

This is all straightforward enough but can I ask another question please? This issue of driveshaft oil migrating to the transmission - The only thing I can see that might allow it is the transmission output shaft seal. Or am I missing something? It appears that I need to remove the output shaft flange and it isn't terribly easy. Is this what you would recommend? What surprises me is why oil goes only that way, into the trans. Again, I'm not looking to do any more work than necessary but that's the only thing concerning me in that area. Cheers Greg

[georgesgiralt]

You do not have to remove the swingarm to remove the gearbox, then the engine out of the frame. Once the gearbox is unbolted from the engine, remove the exhaust headers and the engine fixation stud and pull the engine to the front. This will give enough play to remove the gearbox (once disconnected from the output shaft) then you can remove the engine.