Oil leaks! Aargh

[goomicoo]

After replacing the push rod seals (I thought that was the source) I still have 2 puddles waiting for me the next morning.  Where should I go next? Oil pan?   :-? I order silicon gaskets for everything just in case. Thanks in advance

[montmil]

A bit more information would be quite helpful... and post a photo, if possible.

Do you see an oil drip clinging to some component? Or an oil track/trail? What's above the two puddles? Help us to help you and there will be some thoughtful responses to follow.

 Monte

[goomicoo]

Good point! There is no longer a trail from the pushrod seals. Oil is clinging to the fins of the sump. No trail from the oil filter housing. The 2 puddles are in the same place that made me think it was the pushrod seals again but there is no trail. Unless the new oil is too clean to see! I'll check that again. I thought there might be a common source that a newbie would not know about. Thanks for the help.

[MrRiden]

spray it all with some brake cleaner then ride and observe. I did see a repair being made this past weekend at a tech day. Oil was leaking from, believe it or not, one of the screws that plug the oil galley. Have a close look at the left [kickstand] side of the engine. See those flush screw heads one on the side and 'nother roud the back. They plug holes that were made to machine the oil passages in the block. Not a common or likely place to leak but hey, I have seen it.
rich

[nhmaf]

I've once tracked an oil leak using a bottle of talcum powder - like a detective dusting for fingerprints, sometimes a litle light "dusting" all over the engine case can help identify those oily tracks... and it makes your 'baby' smell nice too!

 

[Justin B.]

The talc trick is the best way to track pesky leaks unless florescent dyes are used.  The only catch is the area in question has to start out 100% clean, ride for a while, and dust with talc.  Talc will stick to wherever there is oil and you can then follow the trail to the source.

[goomicoo]

I have a feeling it's the push rod seals again! I do not have the tool that is recommended to help seat them. I'm really not in the mood to pull the jugs again. Short of buying the tool or having a shop do the work is there a trick to getting the seals to seat properly? It's too bad because I just got it running and was starting to enjoy the ride.  

[msbuck]

Goomico, 1st, what year is your bike?  2nd, are you aware that the seals are directional?  

The tool only works with earlier model airheads.  If the seal is resting against a metal ring (top) then the tool would not be of any use.  However, if you want to try to make your own tool, just get a short piece of PVC pipe with the ID of the pipe slightly bigger than the push rod tube.  Cut the pipe in half and then cut the angle in to match the top surface of the seal.  I'll add a picture of Graham's (not pretty, but functional) in a little bit.  We both have leaky push rod seals and have just been living with them for a couple of years.  It's on our "to do" list.  We just clean them up and keep riding.  



If you have a Haynes Manual (R50, 60, 75, 80, 90 & 100 Twins), check out page 36 for a picture and dimensions of the shop tool.

[goomicoo]

Thank you very much for the pic and info. I wish I had done the same thing you do and just lived with it. The leak is much worse now than it was before.

[trolle]

In the early days of being the proud owner of an '84 r65 and when my learning curve still was very steep I changed the pushrod seals only to discover that the leak got worse, much worse. After experiencing this twice, remember that my learning curve was steep, I discovered that the seals were mounted upside down and that they cracked because of this. The third time I succeeded and the seals lasted five seasons before they began to leak again.

Not I suggest that you have mounted the seals wrong, I would not dream of suggesting anything like that, I just wanted to tell a little story.

greetings from a grey and calm north

[montmil]

... However, if you want to try to make your own tool, just get a short piece of PVC pipe with the ID of the pipe slightly bigger than the push rod tube.  Cut the pipe in half and then cut the angle in to match the top surface of the seal....

Thanks, Aida, for the photo and DIY description. I added your info to my personal R65 neo-Clymer.

Monte

[goomicoo]

In the early days of being the proud owner of an '84 r65 and when my learning curve still was very steep I changed the pushrod seals only to discover that the leak got worse, much worse. After experiencing this twice, remember that my learning curve was steep, I discovered that the seals were mounted upside down and that they cracked because of this. The third time I succeeded and the seals lasted five seasons before they began to leak again.

Not I suggest that you have mounted the seals wrong, I would not dream of suggesting anything like that, I just wanted to tell a little story.

greetings from a grey and calm north

A welcome story indeed. I checked the orientation (seam down) before starting. I did not want to go down that road but it looks like I'm on the onramp anyway!

[not-so-fast-ed]

Goomicoo, What year and model is your bike?  Many of us are in the same boat with seeping pushrod seals.  Different years had different methods of solving the leak I've been told.

[Semper Gumby]

hey Goomico,

Another reason the pushrod seals leak is the stops on the pushrods push up the push rod tubes.  They are pressed on.  So sometimes new seals (mounted the right way) don't fix the leak.  What you can do is either tap the rings back down the pushrod tub a bit and fasten a hose clamp behind it so it doesn't move again or tap the ring down and spot weld it in place.  I had nathan@boxerworks.com do mine.  Not a leak from there since....

TTFN,

[goomicoo]

hey Goomico,

Another reason the pushrod seals leak is the stops on the pushrods push up the push rod tubes.  They are pressed on.  So sometimes new seals (mounted the right way) don't fix the leak.  What you can do is either tap the rings back down the pushrod tub a bit and fasten a hose clamp behind it so it doesn't move again or tap the ring down and spot weld it in place.  I had nathan@boxerworks.com do mine.  Not a leak from there since....

TTFN,

Ah Ha!  . That sounds like something that is worth investigating. I'll give that a shot. I have a '80 R65 with 42,000 miles. I bought it when it would not idle, the carbs leaked, would not charge, and the master cylinder and engine leaked. Everything but the engine leak is now in order. I won't be happy until all the items on the check list have been resolved. My wife would sure be happy if I felt the same way about the list she has for me! Alas, another story for another time.