engine removal

[Bill Conquest]

Well.. it’s been a little while due to one thing or another but here’s an update on the engine rebuild and reinstallation.. The engine is back in the frame the transmission is back on ..the bike is still in the shop.. I got a call mid week from the mechanic telling me I had ordered the wrong rings..??..Apparently the bike had been honed out one size and he didn’t tell me so now I need one size over ..which are 82.46 I believe.. they are on the way and should arrive tomorrow.. it’s been an ongoing saga🙂..
On another subject I have two of these bikes same year ..same everything.. The other one has a alternator problem and I can’t seem to figure out.. I changed the brushes recently and everything was fine.. now the red lights on brightly diminishes slightly when I accelerate.. I checked and cleaned everything and did the voltage regulator test by jumping the blue to the blue black wire..Red light still on.. what’s next?
Thanks much everybody
Bill

[georgesgiralt]

Hello,
I do hope your cylinders are not Nikasil ...
As per the alternator, if the light stays on it is because it is not making electricity.
For it to produce electricity i needs a proper excitation provided by the rotor. ---> check if it is open or shorted using an ohm meter.
The rotor properly energized make a huge magnetic field in rotation because it is bolted to the motor. This induce current in the 3 coils of the stator. ----> check that they are not open circuit or shorted (they are very low in resistance, 0.3~0.6 Ohm, so you need a proper ohm meter to check them. Check two wires at a time. 3 measurements total. The actual value is not relevant, it should nbe the same on the 3 measurements. If not, you have one winding partially shorted by insulation failure due to oil or solvent pollution.
If both tests are correct, you can start the engine and measure voltage produced by the alternator ----> measure ALTERNATIVE voltage two wires at a time on the stator. You should get something like 8 to 20 V and more AC depending of engine RPM. (*)
If everything is fine, you have proved that the alternator is making it's job : producing electricity. But in AC. Your bike needs DC to run. So you have to check the diode board. You'll find a test procedure to test the set of "positive" diodes and "negative" diodes. Do not forget the little ones. If the diode board is toast, you can either replace it or fix it.
If all tests are good, check the big red wire coming out of the diode board and going to the starter motor : it should be plugged on the same post as the big red wire from the battery....
All these test are longer to describe than to make. Write them down on a piece of paper and mark them "check" once done. In a check list way. Simple and effective.
I hope this helps.

* : measure the output voltage of the stator with engine running at the diode board end. This will also check the connecting wires. If you are unsure about your regulator, you can wire jump it to check the voltage. And reduce the time the engine runs with the regulator jumped.

[Bill Conquest]

Thank you Georges for the help.. i’ve been so busy at work I haven’t been able to address the situation yet..
As for the engine reinstallation..The new oversize rings came in and will be fitted on and the bike  put back together…The cylinders had been previously oversized and we didn’t do any honing or changing.. just new rings.. i’m really looking forward to getting it running again and then going back to the first bike.. which again is the same exact machine.. and doing a bunch of fixing on it.. including new pushrod tube seals..
Many thanks again
Bill